I don't think HP is that big of a deal. I haven't really had any problems with my front shaft, I will admit that offroad I just pull it into 2wd when I am going to exceed 10MPH though. It has been good about letting me know how fast is too fast.

My brother has the toy 80series e-locker center section in a mini truck front end. it only took about a day to do and turned out nicely. So he is High pinion and it is nice, but not THAT nice. The center section will run you over 900 bones. A mini truck axle about 200-250. high steer or crossover will be another couple hundred I just didnt like the width on this axle. All said and done I would budget about 1500 for a HP toy 80 series with electronics and stuff, or about 1200 or so to make a Dana44 work with nice steering and such. Its really sixes, because you have expenses both ways. Doing it again, I might have tried harder to find a 80 series axle with e-locker complete. Its a tough axle, only problem is gearing options. you pretty much got 4.10, 4.56 4.88 and 5.29. This is hard to mesh back into the Dana/GM world of 5.13 and 5.38. Although a 80 series can have upgraded birfs and inner shafts don't forget that the R&P doesn't get stronger at the same time. If you go toy, I say stick with lower ratios, not the 5.29s.

Well that is all I have to say for now.

Always take everything I say with a grain of salt.

Dan, thank you for the offer to help, I was hopping to be able to use your abundant knowlege. I will probably want to stop by and look at your axle and steering set up relatively soon. I did not look at your steering setup close enough when we did the Box Canyon/Coke Ovens run.

I would have never even considered a Toy axle if it wasn't for you. I always heard bad things about birfields, but the stronger one in the 80 axle sounds good. I also like the almost CV charactistics of birfields as opposed to ujoins contant acceleration - deceleration especially in slow crawling - high torq situations.

I know that the 80 series axle will be a little more expensive to buy, but all I should have to do is put in a locker(unless I am luck enough to find one stock) which should make it less expensive in the long run. I think the WMS to WMS is the same as the dana 44 rear in my Rodeo and it is HP and pass drop. I assume it is 6 on 5.5 like our Isuszus, I know most Toys are.

Going with a high-pinion axle will help if you keep the short driveline used with your Isuzu t-case... it is less of a big deal if you use a different tranny/t-case combination that winds up being longer. The FJ80 axle looks pretty cheap when you factor in the cost of retubing a Dana... still better if you can find one with an E-locker and the gears you want to go to.

Sounds like you have some pretty good wrench and fab experience/tools, so that's a step in the right direction. As for taking Dan's help, JUMP on that -- he's a talented fabricator and makes a mean latte' as well, just exercise some caution with the wheeled chairs at the kitchen table next to the expensive art glass. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/notooth.gif" alt="" />

I don't remember what the deal was with the steering pump, but I would actually expect it to work just fine with a normal steering box. The bets are off if you wanna run full hydro or assist, tho.

I agree with doing leaf springs to keep it simple -- they are WAY less complex than links and coils, though you do give up some flex. Pick your poison...

Randii

I was thinking about using YJ springs, they are a little shorter than the Waggi 4044 which will give up a little flex, but will help in moving the axle forward and I can probably find about any reasonable spring rate I want. I am doing leaf springs to keep things as simple as possible.


Actually, those are the leafs I used... They are about 2-3 inches shorter than the wagoneer ones... At first I thought they might sag, maybe beacuase my rodeo might be heavier than a yj, But my wheel wells havent moved at all, in over 5 months... But who knows what can happen down the line <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/drunk.gif" alt="" />

i dunno if you realy give up that much flex. it all depends on how much thought you put into it. you can put together a pretty dang flexy leaf setup, if you use the right combination. just wait till you see mine <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/evil.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/notooth.gif" alt="" />

paul

Just curious, is this typical of an SAS? I never considered the speed capabilities in 4wd. I know it all depends on the particular setup, but what is realistic?

I know that I could put together a pretty dang flexy leaf suspension -- BTDT. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/pfft.gif" alt="" />

The first SAS build on Uzi flexed *well* beyond 1000 on a 23-degree ramp... but it had excess body roll and sagged out the front Toyota springs pretty fast, and wrapped the rear Chevy springs badly. I tuned the suspension a couple of times until I got it where I liked the balance of street handling, trail performance, and longevity. The result is less flexy but way more predictable.

Randii

No, not really. I've run it up to 65 or so with no problems just to see how it is. I start to get vibration about there from a less than perfectly balanced front driveshaft, but it's still pretty good for having lengthend it myself.

I think you would need some pretty steep driveline angles to worry about 4HI and SAS. Lots of things come into play that could effect it in a particular setup.

--Dan

right on.

my plan is to use long-ish (48-53") packs, some arch--but not a lot, lots of leaves for progressivity, shackle at about a 50* angle on the shorter side of the spring, eyes parallel to the ground, and the best shocks I can afford. that combined with a low amt of lift and a wide stance ought to work pretty good all-around <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />

I don't think a mini-truck axle will be wide enough for me. Ideally I would like an axle 1 - 2 inches wider than the rear. I would like to run a wheel with a lot of back spacing so I have as little tire scrub as possible when turning the front tires. This way I will have to worry less about stuffing 35" tires in the front wheel wells.

I didn't think about this/know this, I had originally thought about running 5.13 gears but I think 4.88:1 will work OK, it is just shy:
NewTire / OldTire x CurrentGear = New Gear
(34.8 / 28.9) x 4.1 = 4.937
So 4.88 should work, I would rather go on the high side but in this case do not have a choice.