Changed mine on a '95 two weeks ago.

If you have a 2' breaker bar (or really stout torque wrench) you can tap the starter to loosen the crank bolt - qucik and easy.
My biggest dilemma was re-tightening it during re-assembling. Ended up having to build a tool to hold the crank stationary - nothing at the local tool store would hold up to 135 lb.ft.

If the set-up in the '90 is the same as '95 it's easy up until the a/c, it got under my skin, and even moreso, the bracket.

After that you just have the belt covers and the aluminum plate that holds all the accessory pulleys - then you're in.

I screwed up my tensioner, but I have the hydraulic one and was looking at instructions for the spring loaded type.

Getting the belt on just right and keeping all the gears on their marks is tricky, you just have to play with it and figure it out. I found it easiest to back the cam up (clockwise) just a hair to slip the belt on, then pull it back counter-clockwise to tense it back up and get the cam gear back to it's mark - ended up being the trick for me.

No clue on the spring tensioner - the instructions looked simple enough though.

Keep all the nuts and bolts straight. There's a ton of them. I generally threaded them back on/in wherever I could.

In hindsight it's not all that horrible of a job, but going in blind -- it may take you longer than you think.

I looked it up a while ago, the whole job pays about 4.5 hours according to Mitchel labor time guide. I would axpect it to take considerably longer if one isn't set up for working on cars and fairly well practiced at it.

Clay

Info sent via email. The tensioner in this particular job is the one for the timing belt. It's behind the engine front covers and you can't see it until you undress the front of the engine. It's on the passenger side, but very close to the middle of the engine. Water pump is close to the middle as well. As I recall, the tensioner on the driver side of the fan is for the A/C belt.

If you're going to replace the timing belt and timing belt tensioner I suggest replacing the tensioner spring as well. It's probably not necessary, but is good insurance. It's also a good practice to replace the water pump at the same time.

If you don't have all of the necessary parts before you begin, I wouldn't try this and expect to have the truck running in a day or two because you'll be chasing parts that may have to be ordered.

I've only done the job with the engine out, so I don't know how long it will take with the engine in-frame. I'd probably allow a full day to a weekend because I don't like to get in a hurry, like to clean everything I can reach and I never know what I'll run into or how many interruptions I'll have or if I'd rather sit and just look at it a while. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" /> It ain't like I make a living doing this. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/baby.gif" alt="" /> If so, I'd starve - I'm real slow. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/sleeping.gif" alt="" />

Good luck,
Frank

I did the whole stinkin thing today-well my friend and I. It was pretty straight forward except the stupid AC bracekt assembly. Someone should be shot for designing the bracket! Well thanks for the advice. The only problem I had was I couldn't get a new o-ring for tube. The old one was not leaking. The gasket on the passenger side was. I just cleaned everything up good. stuck some silicone sealant on the o-ring which also helped everything slide together. I also put rvt on the gaskets. I had to make a gasket for the upper return tube. By the way does anybody know actual cost shops charge for this? A year ago I got an estimate I think was about $700.00 for all? At least doing it myself I know the surfaces were clean and can't blame anybody but myself. I also had to take ac bracket off twice-forgot to put fan assembly on the first time. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/scared.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" />. That was not fun. I only broke one bolt on water pump which is a surprise for 15 yr old truck-got piece right out and replaced with new. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/scared.gif" alt="" /> I also broke the vent thingy on the front diff. now I have to figure way to put new breather tube on all there i a hole. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif" alt="" /> Well need to hit hay. Thanks for all the help and advice took about 11 hours total work time and It takes 2 people to keep sanity. Started with one friend in his garage and he gave up then another friend came and gave moral support for last couple hours of rebuild. The t-belt really did not look bad-maybe a little stiff is all goodnight ya-all!! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/sleeping.gif" alt="" />

Yes, a shop will usually charge between $600-$700 for a timing belt change. Makes you feel good to DIY, doesn't it? <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />

<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

now I'm in the process of putting extended diff breathers on. Last night just put new engine mounts in friends cherokee-actually he did it just used my stuff. 6 months ago he didn't even change his own oil, In the last year we have done his water pump and starter, new oil filter fitting, just finished a "home grown 2 inch lift on his cherokee using F-150 coils up front, he now has 31's looks great but it ain't no monty. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/pfft.gif" alt="" />