I think DougB is wrong and KevinC is right. Something else is also wrong. I ripped off a rear break line but still had front brakes. The proportioning valve shut off but still leaked some. Your front breaks or proportioning valve must not be working.
I had forgotten that the Mitsu had only one rear bleeder. I have a Toyota rear with bleeders on both sides. I also had hand breaks until they rusted off. Now I use a line lock.
Bob Shaw

That's true, I forgot that the resevoir is somewhat compartmentalized fr&rr and the piston is sectioned for the two compartments. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />

Good advice to check those other hoses!

Thanks for all the good advice, guys. I'm off to work on it now-new hoses for the front are something I've been thinking about anyway and I'll probably do that too. Might even end up rebuilding the master cylinder too. I'll post again when I'm done, thanks again for all the advice!

I myself have had a lot of problems with brakes on my 89 Raider. I have replaced the front calipers, not once, not twice, but 4 TIMES on the same side (drivers side). Now, NAPA was good about replacing the calipers, but there seemed to be alittle problem with them. When they were remanufactured, it seems the hole for the brakeline (I am not a technical guy so bear with me) was a little bigger then the original, so it leaked fluid. Not at first, and not a lot. But the next day I realized it REAL quickly when the pedal went to the floor. Took over an hour to get the seat outta my butt cheeks,lol. Friend of mine at work is a mechanic and looked it over. He noticed the problem and used teflon tape to wrap the threads around the line, so now it doesn't leak. But, since I had had so many problems with the brakes, I went ahead and changed the master cylinder and brake hoses, rotors, and front calipers/rear pads. NOW if anything else goes wrong with the brakes, I am at a loss. Hope this never happens to ya'll.

The metal brake line beetween the caliper and the rubber line seals using a flare fitting. The threads in the caliper are not what holds the fluid back. The short steel line either needs to be replaced of the brass seat in the caliper is bad.

It may just be coincidence that after the tape was applied the leak stopped or the tape let you get the fitting a bit tighter and it sealed at the flare.

Even if you get it to seal at the threads it would leak where the tube goes through the nut. A brake system is no place for teflon tape.

Kevin

I replaced the steel lines and went through 3 calipers before we did the teflon tape. All three were bad in that case, and all three were from NAPA and after 3 months still no leak after the tape. I am paranoid as heck about my brakes, esp being a paramedic and seeing some of the crashes people get in. Granted most are BS minor fender benders, but the really bad ones make ya cringe. It seems that if I remember correctly, it was leaking at the flare, so that might be the reason it has worked. I don't know, I am definitely NOT a mechanic, I break things a whole lot easier then I fix them. And if I don't know, I will be the first one to ask a question.

Sorry if the teflon comment sounded a bit harsh... Very strange on the calipers not sealing. I wonder if they left the fitting out on them or did not put a new one in?

Their budget line (I think its Cardone) can have some pretty low quality. I noticed that on my rebuild master cylinder.

Kevin

I took you guys' advice to heart, went ahead and ordered new hoses for the front and a rebuilt master cylinder too. Just for everyone's info, it costs a whole lot less to buy a rebuilt master cylinder than to get the rebuild kit. $40 for the remanufactured after the core refund vs. close to $80 for the rebuild kit. The stuff won't be here till Thursday, so that gives me almost a week to soak the crap out of everything with Liquid Wrench. I'll post when I start working on it, I'll probably have some questions then too.

well i have a scary(not that much) brakes story:
I was driving in my father's 1984 pajero when i was going into a round about, i hit the brake and the padel went all the way in and the car slowed down slightly. so i removed my foot and tryed to break again when i found that the padle is realy hard to press. but when u press it with power only the rear brakes work like a hand brake.
so with all my power i pressed it and the rear wheels locked and started to slip but fially i stoped it.

The problem was in the master cylender, i didn't realy know what it was but the master cylender was replaced
thanks god i didnt go into the round about