Hey, I just got the crap scared out of me today, on my way to the post office and when I hit the brakes at the stop light I hear a POP and then no brakes!!! Pedal goes all the way to the floor, very little stopping pressure available. Many thanks given that nobody was in front of me, or I wasn't going down a steep hill, or my wife wasn't driving alone. When I checked it out the hose in the rear from the main brake line to the line that goes over the axle has split and come almost all the way off the fitting. I have a new hose coming, should be here tomorrow, but I have a few questions for those that know: First, there appears to be only one place to bleed the brakes in the rear, on the driver's side. Is this correct? Since the break was in the rear, I should only need to bleed the rear brakes, right? How exactly does the line-to-line connection work-does the fitting on the metal line just screw into the hose? Finally, shouldn't the front brakes still work due to the proportioning valve? As it is there is almost no stopping power at all, just a very slight resistance that doesn't help much. Thanks for any answers, I read the archives as much as possible but just wanted some more clarification. Moral of the story-Check your hoses out VERY CAREFULLY!!! I'm still a little shook up, there's nothing that gets the blood going like suddenly having NO BRAKES.

Yes indeed - CHECK THOSE HOSES!

Hydraulic brakes, while a very simple and efficient system, do have their weakness(es). The one you've discovered is that any break in the line will release pressure throughout the system leading to failure. The proportioning valve will not have an effect on this.

Basically, the lines are wired up to the master cylinder like this: right front, left front, and rear; and are bled at the same points. The rear shares one bleeder screw which I'm pretty sure is on the PASSENGER'S side of the vehicle. If it were me, I'd bleed the whole system. Better safe than sorry and it helps to get all that old brake fluid out of there!


Glad you're okay! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

Unless the master cyl ran empty you should only have to bleed the rear.

On my 89 the bleeder is on the passenger/right side. But yes only 1.

You might want to get what is called a line wrench. It will help to keep you from rounding off the line connections and even maybe the bleeder.

Doug beet me to it while tyoing. Good point about getting the old fluid out. If your hose was in that bad of shape the fluid is probably shot as well.

I'm glad nobody was hurt! I think I'd take a look at the front hoses and see if they need replacing and do them all at once.

I'd suggest a fluid flush/change while you're at it if it hasn't been done in a while. Get about 3 quarts of brake fluid.

There is a single bleed point on the rear - driver side, I think. Bleed the rear first, then the right front and then the left front - always working from the furthest point toward the master cylinder. Continue flushing/bleeding until the fluid runs clear and no more bubbles are seen. Don't let the reservoir run dry or you'll suck air back into the system. When you've completed all 3 bleed operations, go around and bleed them again. Drive the truck - CAREFULLY - you probably won't get all of the air out the first time and the brakes won't do very well. A careful slow drive will dislodge any remaining air pockets. Hit some good bumps intentionally on your drive. Come back and bleed it twice around again and you should have it.

Good luck,
Frank

Did the e-brake work?

Similar thing happened in my 67 Camaro years ago except the rear drum wheel cylinder failed. The parking brake needed the wheel cylinder for it to work. I was screwed and panicked . I was in a grocery store parking lot and was rolling to hit a car at about 10mph. I then recovered and decided to throw the tranny into park. It clicked alot and then locked about 12 inches from the car.

So I have to say I know how it feels to have no pedal! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/evil.gif" alt="" /> It's not a good feeling and from time to time I even have dreams where I lose my brakes. It's real trauma! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" />

All vehicles made after 1967 should have dual hydralic brakes. If you lose one line you should still have braking in the other half of the system.

Most vehicles are split front to back. The pedal should go low but the front brakes should still work if you lose the rear line.

I would make sure your front brakes are working properly and bled as well as look at the condition of the master cyl, something else is not right.

The back bleeder is on the passenger side back wheel. As others have suggested I would consider replacing all your flex lines.

Kevin

Good advice. You can also "gravity bleed" the system by cracking the bleed screws (one by one) and letting the fluid dribble out, taking the air with it. The only precaution with this method is to ensure that you keep the reservoir topped up, or air gets back in, and you have to start over. I put small vinyl tubing from the bleeder to a bottle, and get it started by cracking the rear bleed screw, and giving the pedal one pump. This starts the flow. Then watch that reservoir. Keep it flowing till you no longer see any air bubbles in the tubing as it runs out (did I mention clear tubing?). Then go to the front bleeders and repeat the process.

PHIL

DEFINITELY get that line wrench! MUCHO easier. I blew a front hose last year. I also agree on getting all the hoses at once...I did...now I just need to put the others on <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" />

Get a new master cylinder as well-
the seals inside yours are leaking pressure from one system to the other. It's the one failure mode that the system can't self- detect.

Brakes just aren't a good place to scrimp.

Toby