I managed to get my pads replaced on one of my rear wheels and can not get the !@#$@! caliper back on. My 6" C clamp won't budge it. Any help ASAP would be greatly appreciated.
I'm screwed until I get the clipers back on the rotor.
I did a search, bought a Chiltons, screamed and no luck. I thought someone had posted a procedure with pictures a long while back? <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/scared.gif" alt="" />
Thanks

the piston "screws" in... I used a needle-nose plier to grip it by opening the plier until it fits those little indents, pushing the tips of the plier in, and then just kinda turn it.

i hope that makes sense, i'm a little groggy right now from a long drive last night and not being as verbose as I should be.

Do you push it in at the same time?

I just did my rear brakes a couple of months ago. Once you figure out how the piston moves back into the caliper, this job is cake. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

As the other poster mentioned, grab the piston in the divots with a pair of needle nose pliers. Twist (clockwise, I think, but I'm not sure) until the piston has receded enough to allow the caliper to seat on the post and slide over the rotor and pads. It'll take some time, and the piston is very hard to turn at first, but it will get easier, and it will move back into the caliper. Have patience, relax, and it'll go fine. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />

And remember to take it easy for a while after you get it put back together so that the pads have time to bed in. No panic stops if you can avoid 'em. Or you may end up <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/shiner.gif" alt="" /> And remember that it's normal for the pedal to feel awkward for the first few uses after you do this job.

Good luck! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

It literally screws in. The auto parts stores do sell a tool to do the job which is a cube about 1" to 1 1/4 per side with different configurations of "pins" on each side. It is driven by a 3/8 wrench, generally an extension on a ratchet.

Hey Jim and Everybody,
Thanks for the support. Intellectual and and psychological. I got my first ever compressor with air tools. So, I decide to rotate the tires on my 91 Troop. I find out that the hub covers have to be switched from the front to the back. Then I find out that Les Schwab has stripped the screws securing the hub covers. Two out of the four wheels had a stripped screw. I checked my rear driver-side rotor to find an indicator scoring. Since I can't figure out how to get the rotor off to turn it, I replace the pads and find out that the cylinder can not be recessed with a six inch C clamp, which broke in the process.
So there I was. Thanks for the advice. I broke down and bought the $8.49 tool, that along with my ratchet and extension, reset the cylinder, and replaced all the left over nuts and bolts. One wheel down and three to go. I figure if I do all four brake pads, it will pay for my compressor and air tools.
All I need now is a set of mudders and I we could head up to Brown's Camp for the real fun.
Thanks again!

One thing on the older Troop, when you're taking wheels on and off be sure not to go crazy with the air tools. It's best to break loose the lug nuts with a breaker bar and then spin them off with air as desired. Also, NEVER run the lug nuts down with an air tool.

Breaking wheel studs is a very common problem on Gen I Troops and using impact tools exacerbates the problem. That's why I don't let tire shops work on mine at all. I just jack the rig up on all fours and take the wheels/tires in for whatever is needed.

Use a dab of anti-sieze compound on each wheel stud and hand-torque to factory specs for the type of wheel you have.

Note that steel wheels and aluminum wheels do have different torque values.

Doing this will go a long ways towards having the aggravation (and blood, sweat, & tears) of changing a busted wheel stud. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/angry.gif" alt="" />

HTH........ed