i haven't been online in a few and wow have i missed a lot! everything is lookin nice daniel, glad you finally found those 60s. give me a hollar if you need a hand.

<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />
Eric

What's up Eric how's it been going. Does anyone know anything about how these hubs and rotors come off? If so help a brother out here.

Later,
Daniel

are you talking about removing the hub from the axle assembly? or are you talking about specifically remove the rotor from the hub? either way, its pretty much standard, just like a D44 or even similar to Isuzu.

first remove the caliper. next the hublocks (or drive flanges). next unscrew the outer axle nut, the lockwasher, then the inner axle nut. remove the outer wheel bearing. hub and rotor should now slide off. The rotor is held to the hub by the wheel lugs/studs. you'll need to press out lugs and then the two should seperate (may be a lot of rust that makes this not happen easy). Thats basically the quick and dirty of it. which part are you having trouble with?

-Rob

I am having trouble with the caliper. It slides out but then it stops. I already got the hub off. I just put a lug nut on the stud and tapped them though with a hammer. The hub came off. the rotor is still hanging on there by the brake caliper. How does htat come off? It looks like it should slide off but the thing will only slide about 2 inches. Then it seems to hit the braket right at the piston in the caliper. Hell man I don't know.lol It just don't want to come off. Oh yeah I called the guy I got these axles from and he said he would replace what ever parts are messed up. So that sames me some money anyway.
Thanks for the help hope to get this off this afternoon. With your advise of course. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

Later,
Daniel

My Dodge D60 used these springs/shims that retained the caliper. at the top and bottom of the caliper, you wedged a piece of metal curved in an arch between the caliper and the caliper support bracket. this is what retains the caliper and before you can remove the caliper, these "springs" needs to be removed. there are no bolts that hold the caliper in place like on a stock isuzu front end.

I'm not sure if your Chevy calipers are the same way or not. its prolly a pretty bad description, so let me know if i'm not getting the point across.

-Rob

Daniel,
Looks like a great project. I want to recommend one thing, I have not done an SAS, but I have helped a few friends. The Trooper frame is designed for independent front suspension. Notice how short the frame height is were the suspension was attached. The IFS frames are designed to carry the load at that point. When you cut the IFS off and add a leaf spring, you have put half of the front end weight at the extreme front of the frame. This results in a large bending moment on the frame at a very thin point, i.e. a lot of stress in a critical point. Also consider that your engine mounts right in the middle of this section. Previously the engine was supported by the IFS cross member, but now the frame will carry all the load. I know there are many successful SAS's out there without frame reinforcement. I am a mechanical engineer, and I would recommend some reinforcement in this area. I would add some deeper plates on either side of the frame, that will increase the depth of the frame, and then boxing in the bottom of the thickened section. This will make your frame immensely stronger,and make the finished rig drive better, because you will have more rigidity in a critical area. I think that thin frame section is a weak point in many SAS conversions. Just my two cents, so take it for what it is worth, but I think you will get more life out of your frame if you reinforce this area. Good luck with the project, it looks like a lot of fun! I wish I could come across a set of one ton axles! I will admit, they would find their way under a Jeep not a Trooper, but Troopers are great rigs.

Most seem to have substantial beef added... definitely in the crossmembers, some elsewhere, too. Mine is also braced back along the bottom of the frame a ways, then tied into the engine mounts and new shock towers, with plating along the inside of the frame back to where it goes to taller section. With Isuzu's stout frame (DANG, that thing is heavy!), it has held up well.... even when it was 'wheeled instead of parked. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif" alt="" />

I'm not sure the Isuzu frame isn't sufficiently stout as-is, but I am sure that more metal can't hurt I have seen Toyota frames break near the front spring hangar, but the First-Gen Amigo/Rodeo frame has more section height forward of the firewall and thicker wall rails, as well.

Randii

Rob,
For what it is worth I guess the chevy and dodge are nothing alike when it comes to the brake caliper. I checked mine over lastnight and saw what was holding the caliper on. At the bottom of the brake caliper bracket there is a shim that is held in palce with an allen bolt. Take the bolt out and the darn caliper falls right off. (go figure) <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" />

Jeepfiend,
I was just going to ask yah'll about that very issue sometime soon. I have been thinking about what I could do to add some beef to that area. I think I should wait to get the motor in place and then beef up around the mounts and tie it all together.


I can't wait to get her done so maybe I can find a jeep to go under my trooper. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" /> Just a joke people just a joke. Thanks for the info and keep an eye on this thread becuase this is just the begining of this build up.


Later,
Daniel

actually, your description sounds similar. the shims are what i was referring to as springs. You're right, the bottom is retained by the single allen bolt. pull that out and you can remove the bottom shim which should give you enough play to remove the top and then the caliper itself. glad to hear you got it figured out.

-Rob

How wide is the frame at that point? Maybe you could just get some 2x4 tube and cut it to fit the contour of the underside of the frame in that area. You would effectively increase the depth and strength. Just be sure not to make too many abrupt joints. Maybe add some 3/16 or even 1/8 flat bar to the bottom, a fish plate of sorts, extending a few inches beyond the ends of the added metal. Taper the ends of the flat bar so you don't have an abrupt joint that would create a stress concentration. Let me see if I can find some pictures of some fish plates to show you what I mean. Right now, most of my Jeeps would fit under a trooper. Out of three Jeeps, not one runs. But then again, neither of my Troopers are doing well either <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/shiner.gif" alt="" />