Thats the plug before it gets to the gauges, Theres a smaller plug at the guages. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />

what size tires are you gonna run, it'll be a shame to have to trim those nice new flares

32 inch Thornbird. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" />
I am going to trim the fender and hope the flair stays the same. Rember these flairs already clear 35 inch tires with the IFS.

Later,
Daniel

Please tell me someone is paying you to take these <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" />

i believe that was a joke lolll <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/notooth.gif" alt="" />

those springs are sweet man. let me know when the fun starts and I'll bring the peanut gallery to help out <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />

You might want to rethink this.
A rev. man. valve body is great in a street car,but in a truck it could be bad.........ie:

Normal shift is P R N 3 2 1

Rev body is P R N 1 2 3

If you need to get it into R quickly,it could be a
pain.

A trans brake will actual apply fliud pressure to REVERSE and 1 st gear at the same time (when truck is running). When released it can
shock alot of parts downhill in the drive train.

It will not hold you truck when it is turned off and park it.This is referenced to the part about line locks front and rear.

A manual valve body is neat/cool but when you stop,you have to physically put it into 1st gear and shift as you start to move.If you forget and leave it in say 3rd gear,when you pull away from the light you'll be trying to pullout in 3rd gear not 1st gear.

I would go with a "shift kit" and set it (drill holes etc)
so it is street/strip.This will give you full automatic shifting if your in 3rd(on indicator).

It will stay in 1st as long as shifter stays in first.

It will shift into 2nd and stay there as long as the shifter is in 2nd etc.

Linelocks are a very good thing <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" /> make sure that you wire them up so they can have 12v. when the key is off....
for extended trail stops.........and then you can "turn them off" ....let's say when it's parked on level ground(so your battery won't die).

When you get it rebuilt ask the person rebuilding it about leaving the govenor spring and the servo spring out....it will speed up shifts and let the clutches slip less....
at least it did back in "the ol'school days" <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

Sorry so long hope this helps some.

Bansil

That is the reason I want to go reverse manual. Then I can go from 1st to reverse alot faster. I know I will have to shift at all times now that is anouther thing I like about it. I just don't have to mess with the clucth pedal nomore;)

Later,
Daniel

Test fitted the motor tonight.

Here it how it looks from the side you kcan see the oil pan and the leaf spring hope that is going to work.

It is going to be tight I am more than likely going to have to use an electric water pump and a fan on the rad.
From where it sits now if anything I might have to move the motor forward an inch or so.
Here is the new 35 spline 4340 ALLOY STUB SHAFTS. Thanks Doug


Later,
Daniel

Ooops,I guess that is quicker <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/ignore.gif" alt="" />......late nite <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/pfft.gif" alt="" />

Bansil

By the way nice shafts <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

Good news I finialy got my doubler in!!! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/mrt.gif" alt="" /> I will take some pictures and post them for you tomorow. (have to get some batterys) Also have the new yokes in from Jess.


Later,
Daniel