I have been looking a some new radiators. I want to make sure I keep the motor cool. This one here will fit great but I have a few ??? about it. It is only a Dual-row radiator,but it is three inches thick. What do you guys think, will it cool my vortec?


Product Line: Griffin Aluminum Circle Track Radiators
Radiator Style: Crossflow
Overall Height (in): 19.000
Overall Width (in): 22.000
Overall Thickness (in): 3.000
Row Quantity: Dual-row
Transmission Cooler: No
Inlet Location: Upper driver side
Inlet Size: 1 1/2 in.
Outlet Location: Lower passenger side
Outlet Size: 1 3/4 in.
Tube Size: 1 in.
Radiator Material: Aluminum
Radiator Finish: Natural
Quantity: Sold individually.

Radiators built for the track.

Radiator, Universal, Crossflow, Aluminum, 22 in. Wide, 19 in. High, 3.0 in. Thick, Each



Later,
Daniel

no good knowledge about rads, but I do know the fan can make a big difference. are you going to use an electric or the one on your 4.3? Do you know what size engine that rad is usually used for?

-Paul

Here's some high-level information on cooling, from a *system* perspective:
http://www.4x4wire.com/jeep/tech/engine/cooling/

The radiator you're looking at is a dual-row aluminum radiator, but the cores are deeper than the conventional brass radiator you already know, so I wouldn't wory about it being 'only two core.' You get the added benefit of aluminum's better conductivity.

I can approximate the math, but you should probably verify the actual core area. Let's assume 2.5" thick tanks on either side, so 17in wide a 19in high = 323in^2 which should cool your 260in^3 pretty well, per the default formula of displacement plus a spare 50in^2.

FWIW, I do think that radiator will cool your engine well, if you can feed a reasonable flow through it. A well-fitting fan shroud and fan will also be necessary (IMHO it doesn't matter if it is driven by the 4.3 or an electric motor, if you size the fan appropriately).

Randii

What t-case are you using directly behind your tranny, (Chevy NP203 I assume)? I just took my 203 apart last weeks and I need to get the shaft sent out to get machined to fit into the input of the D300.

Lets see some pics of that doubler.

Joe

Thanks for the info there Randii. I am going to go make sure which one is the biggest I can put in there and I will just order that one. Thanks for the help.

Yeap the 203 is the first case and then it will bolt up to the dana 300.


Here you go.

And here are some side by side shots of my new yokes...
[img]http://pics.montypics.com/trooper4life/2005-04-26/1114549482_trooper_020.jpg[/img]

I hope you all enjoy those have as much as I do.lol Those few things coast me like 700.00 dollars.yikes but it will be all worth it when I am out on the trail with you guys agian.

Later,
Daniel

Thanks for the pics, How long did it take to turn the shaft around? I just took everything out of mine and I need to save some cabbage so I can send it off.

Joe

BEEF <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/mrt.gif" alt="" />

the turn around was not bad. I order the doubler and told them I was sending the shaft to them. They waited till they got the shaft and then ship my new one to me. I didn't have to pay the extra 100. dollars. It coast me 500. dollars to my door.
I got home tonight to see this new package in my shop. My Howell wirring harness came in. I got the harness, computer, coil and the disrtiputor. The distriputor is on back order though. I am trying to make my motor mounts now and should have it ready to bolt in by the weekend.
All my parts are here for my tranny rebuild. I have the HP rebuild kit, Band and the TBI manual reverse valvebody. I hope we can finish the tranny up within the next few weeks.

That is about all I have for now. I will keep you posted.

Later,
Daniel

LOOKIN GOOD! whats up man, i've been following this post but just havent' had time to make it out to washington. everything looks awsome so far, that thing is going to be nasty! now hurry up and finish so we can go tear up our trucks in TELLICO this summer <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />
Eric

I know what you mean ... I still have yet to make it out to your place and check yours out. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/scared.gif" alt="" />


I have my trany back from its fresh rebuild and I mounted the motor in the trooper.

You can see that I moved the motor ahead as far as I could to try and save me some lenght on my rear driveshaft. I now only have about 4 inches in front of the motor. I will now have to use an electric fan in front of the rad.
I also had a chance to bolt my t-case up behind the trany.

You can see in the pictures that the rear t-case fell dead center where I think evrything looks good. Now for my new question. With the doubler that I went with they left it unwelded so I can rotate it up to where I want it to be be. Here are a few shots of the little rotation that I have.


The first picture is with the t-case all the way up. It is tuching the body. My biggest worry about all of this is the pan on the trany. It looks like it is going to be close. Also where and how do you think I should make my new cross members?

Now back to the shop I go...

Later,
Daniel