Hummmmmm

I quickly scanned the first few pages, please forgive me is it's been covered already.

Regarding t-case clearance - I don't see much body lift. A 1.5"-2" body lift will help when running electrical or tubing around the frame area. More importantly, it will give more clearance between the top of the drive train and the bottom of the tub. It might be good to consider even 1", too. 1.5" of body lift has saved me (in the building stage) many times. I add it, just because, on rigs I build, now.

If it's a trail rig, you might get away with solid engine and tranny mounts. I'm not sure I'd recommend it (not having seen the whole application), but it just might be worth investigating. I put solid mounts in my Full-size Cherokee, without anything bad happening. That might be the ticket for a trail rig with very little clearance.

Ya, the t-case is a bit low, but that's not always bad. If this is a trail only rig, then mount is at high as possible, and put metal under it. If it's to be driven on the hiway a lot (to get to the trail) consider leaving it as low as tollerable, and put the same metal under it but with a leading edge.

In expedition type driving, you protect all the critical stuff, and drag the rig over what it can't clear. Much of the skid plating has a ramp for the leading edge. Assuming the obsticle is not a show stopper, lockers, a winch, and a bottle jack in just the right place, will lift the drivetrain (frame and body) enough to get you moving again.

$.02 of free advice


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"Stubig" - '72 416.141 (U1100) Unimog
"Sassy" - '05 KLR650
"Brody" - '04 Rodeo (It's my wife's, really)
"Candy" - '02 TDI New Beetle (yes, a family of 4 fits inside)
"Twinkie" - '72 Revcon 250 (converting from Olds 455 to 6.5L Diesel)