I've got a totally stock '97 4x4 xtra cab. I've had a construction rack and a drivers side tool box on it for years. Took all that off the other day. My neighbor points out to me that my truck is leaning left. I get the tape measure out and sure enough front and back drivers sides measure 1/2" lower than passenger side. Measured from ground to wheel well edge just above the tire. Also measured from top of tire to same edge. Same result.

Should I mess with the torsion rods up front to level things out? What to do in the back? Can the left and right leafs be swapped? Can a shop put 1/2" lift back into one side? Of course if I put the drivers side tool box back on, and when I get in the truck, the 1/2" difference will be even worse. All advice appreciated.

The rear springs get tired over time and the T-bars do the same.
It sounds like you are ready for some Alcans in the rear and Sway-A-ways up front.
New shocks would also be a good thing.

I did all of that and a little more on my '96 @ about 75K, I now have just over 196K and my truck is tight and level. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />

Visit my web site for more information.

i bet that was with a full fuel tank. still isn't right.

I had an old Toyota that was lower on one side, it will also effect the height of the year as well, your torsion bars are probably a little worn, especially the driver side since that is where you do most of your sitting, 20 gallons of fuel is pretty heavy as well, new torsion bars will restore the front end real nicely, Sway Away are really nice, make sure they are the bigger 300M kind not the 25mm powerbarz,

300m kind? That's a bearing they use in Longfield Birfield joints... <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />

Does SAW make another torsion bar size for the T other than 25.5mm? I've never heard of it...

Sounds like you simply need to crank one side back up... Do that & re-measure the rear; Probably won't be as bad off in the rear as you are now. As you'll most likely need an alignment after cranking it up, you may consider just having the alignment shop do it. Simply ask them to level it out; They should do it without any additional charge, as it should be considered a part of the alignment you're already paying for. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

Fwiw, Downey also makes a good set of torsion bars... I've been running a set for a few years with good results. They're 26mm, doesn't have that annoying plastic cover that cracks like SAW, made by the same folks as OEM. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />

Ive got some SAWs that are larger than the 25.5mm bars, they are a little bit stiffer than the powerbarz since we all know the T100 is a little bigger than the Toyota Truck, they are red instead of white, cant remember the part number...

300m is the name of a high-strength steel alloy, kind of like "chro-moly" steel.

Ah, now I gotcha... <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />

All,

Thanks for the tips. I had a stealership alignment about a year ago and seems they should have caught it. First I plan to put my construction rack back on. Then the drivers side tool box. Then lower the right front via Tbar maybe 1/2". This might raise the left rear and make things right all around. If not, then start spending some money! Thanks again.

Ken

They probably did catch it, then measured it, then decided it was in spec. My left side also sags by about 1/2" (1/2" in the back and a hair less in the front). I told them when I got the alignment to level it out as well. When I picked it up they told me they didn't level it because it was all within spec.

Some kind specs that dictate a 1/2" difference in elevation on the sides of the vehicle. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/barf.gif" alt="" />