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Re: to buy or not to buy [Re: valleycat] #578600 03/14/05 07:16 PM
Anonymous
Unregistered
Quote
all the waggy 44's are offset 6 or so inches.


That should say all the '74-79 Waggy 44's are offset. Starting in 1980 the rear axles are centered as the gas tank was redesigned. The only thing is they started using AMC 20 rear axles until mid-86. These are much stronger than CJ AMC 20s though with thicker axle tubes and one piece axleshafts.

In mid-86 they ran out of AMC 20's and started using the 44 again through '91 when the Waggie went away. These 44's are centered.

Re: to buy or not to buy #578601 03/14/05 11:22 PM
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 1,056
valleycat Offline
Body Damage is Cool
Quote
when the Waggy went away.


that should read "when the SJ waggie went away" as the xj wagoneer was produced from 1984-2000.

CSP is right though. the late models are centered. he knows alot more about waggy's than i do but i have some experience ripping them apart a using the parts on my cj. i've encountered that POS front end hoping i was getting a 44. now i know better. honestly, i think you should sell your 20 and buy a waggy 44 front with the money. keep that rear 44 you have. like CSP said, plenty of rock crawlers want their jeep like that. here's a pic of mine. it's in build stage and loosely mocked up but it just shows you have a good platform to start a very capable off road machine project. mine has a 10" wheelbase stretch using dakota springs. it was $40. as you can see, i need bigger tires. 38's are on the way. i cut right through one of the cj7 diamond plate corners with the sawzall but you can see in the pic that if you used yj or cj rear springs, diamond plate corners would cover the open space up. then you could mount up some tj flares and cover the tire. my rear 44 is the same as the one on your yj.

[img][image]http://img163.exs.cx/img163/5333/fendercutjpg2vm.jpg[/img][/image]

Re: to buy or not to buy [Re: valleycat] #578602 03/15/05 12:13 AM
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 344
winstonwrenchhead Offline OP
Mudrunner
Does this cause allot of driveline problems with it not being straight inline or am I just overthinking this through? Some of my buddies argue that my 20 with the one piece is just as strong as a 44 but I don't know. The way I see it right now is that if I retain my axles that I have on the CJ, convert them to spring over, I know whats in them I know who did the work and I know they work. I will have a better ride with spring over and I can get rid of my body lift. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

If I could find two 44's for cheap I would jump on it but funds are limited to what the master chief of the house lays down. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/ignore.gif" alt="" />

Another Idea came to mind today while I am still deciding what to do with this thing...and that was just use the whole body, grill and all. But how does that work with DMV? This came to mind because I am going to have to buy a new front clip anyway so why not just use whats on there for now to keep it somewhat the same color for once <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/notooth.gif" alt="" /> and change the front later. Hell I might as well the engine is mostly out of a 95 anyway.

All these ideas of mine are like throwing marbles in a garbage disposal...you never know whats going to chip off.

<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" />


1982/1992 CYJ "FrankenJeep" SOA with Waggy Springs 1" body, 4.0 head, borla headers & cat back, mopar MPI, Jacobs ignition, York air, Custom 3" intake w/k&n, K5 heater, Flexlight fan, 33" Coopers, DANA 44's, lockright up front, NP 435...In progress.
Re: to buy or not to buy [Re: winstonwrenchhead] #578603 03/15/05 12:44 AM
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 1,056
valleycat Offline
Body Damage is Cool
i don't think you will have problems because of driveshaft alignment. here's the recipe for what i would do with that yj for cheap. and i'm a cheap bastard.

1. waggy front with 5 on 5.5 conversion. approx. $300

2. waggy front springs. $50? free?

3. yj rear springs and traction link(no clue on price for anti wrap bar, i built mine out of tube laying around. springs shouldn't cost much if you have to buy them).

4. diamond plate corners and tj flares will be about $200 if you find deals.

5. steering for soa can get very expensive. research what it takes before you go soa. it can get spendy depending on what you need to buy. a basic bolt on, everything you need kit will probably push $1000.

you have a lot of choices to make. just make sure your money and time goes to upgrades, not lateral moves or downgrades.

Re: to buy or not to buy [Re: valleycat] #578604 03/16/05 06:35 AM
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 344
winstonwrenchhead Offline OP
Mudrunner
So I took a few measurments today and figured out that I won't be able to use my front axle on the new frame. The frame is about 6 inches wider in the front and the rear than mine. Unless I buy some rims with enormous offset my axle won't work. I'm considering using the existing axles thats on there for now, moving my front clip or one that I found over or mabye even keeping the YJ clip and just buying some lights for it. I think I am going to run YJ springs and keep it spring over or possibly using my rear springs from the CJ and using them on the front. Using the old CJ fender flares, using diamond plate corners to keep it road legal. And running 33"s all of this untill I find an estate sale with 60's in the free pile <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/nana.gif" alt="" />.

I know you guys say the front axle is the weak link but hey I gotta do what I gotta do. For now at least.


1982/1992 CYJ "FrankenJeep" SOA with Waggy Springs 1" body, 4.0 head, borla headers & cat back, mopar MPI, Jacobs ignition, York air, Custom 3" intake w/k&n, K5 heater, Flexlight fan, 33" Coopers, DANA 44's, lockright up front, NP 435...In progress.
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