You can get an open element filter and an adapter to bolt to the Toyota AFM for about $15 on Ebay. Bend your own bracket and you basically have a K&N setup for next to nothing. That's what I did. Then use the money you save to put on a decent exhaust which will help the engine breathe and you'll get a little more power and better gas mileage. More air in and more air out = more power and more efficient.

Here is what I did, cool air all the time. The photo says I am running a K& N, but I now run an OEM filter, K & N's let in to much dirt in my opinion!!!! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />
You can use either 3 or 4 inch PVC

Any chance you have more pics? Specifically, the baffle, the sealed up portion and the drain connection.

Why did you use the solid PVC pipe instead of just running the garden drain hose all the way?

Looks like a good way to both get cold air and raise the intake.

Sorry I do not have any more pictures, I did it about six years ago be for I had a digital camera. The reason I used the solid tube on the back portion was so I could squeeze it oblong and slide it into the box thing that was back there on the fender. At the time, many people were just running the tube to the back and leaving it there in the wheel well. I did not like that idea because of all the dust from the tire when you are running on fire roads. So I pulled the fender off and just started playing with ideas and came up with what you see. The reason for the drain is I covered all the holes up on that side; well that is how the cowl vent used to drain. One day my truck was sitting on the sloped driveway and we were hit with a real hard rainstorm. When I went to start the truck, it hydro locked. I did not know what happened and I let the truck roll backwards and it was in first gear, I let the clutch out and it turned over backwards and blew all the water out the intake. I pulled it into the shop on the starter motor and let it sit. At work the next day, I realized what happened and when I got home and opened the air cleaner, it was full of water. Cleaned it out and started it up but it would not idle right nor did it rev right. I screwed the MAF up and had to get another one. I just poked a hole in the tin and put a piece of ¥ PVC pipe that I can stick a ¥-boat transom plug in if needed. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

Yes. The stock system uses a small, roughly corregated tube extending to the front of the truck behind the grill, with a bent down cover. That hose is quite restrictive. I've also wondered just how much that front flap bends down due to air pressure at the front of the truck. For next to nothing, you could replace it with a larger pvc elbow and short extension. It's not going to rock your world, but it will make an improvment over the stock flow at wide open throttle, high rpms.

Thanks for the additional information Oops, Thief and Foxtrapper.

Foxtrapper, I've got the 3.0 so mine is different (airbox on same side as Oops, and is right behind the light with a little directional funnel-like plastic piece).

To briefly hijack, what upper shock mounts are you using Oops?

Homemade, store bought parts were scarce when I did the SAS almost six years ago!!!!
Crappy picture!!!

Cool, dense air holds more oxygen than warm air. One of the best mods I did to my supercharged motor was adapt in a cold air intake. Dont take in combustion chamber air from under the hood if at all possible.
As for stock intakes, any adaptations should remove corners. Corners restrict flow. Diameter matters, but unless you are increasing the combustion chamber size, you really arent getting substantial increased flow, and stock size will probably do just fine.... unless there was a flaw in the original design for engineering or production purposes.

Oh...you can also use these cold air intakes to produce a little ram-air effect as you are driving along at 65 MPH...effectively giving you a couple lbs of positive boost on the intake side.