I'm agreeing with the group here. I think the slave cylinder, or what is also called the clutch release, is crapping out. You definitely need to get a helper to depress the clutch while you look at the slave cylinder and see if it moves and pushes against the release fork. Yea, it will be difficult to see with the rubber bellows but you should see SOME movement.

Ok, I agree with all of you also. I'm up to try anything that will cost me the least amount of green backs and save me the most amount of time. I will see if I can scrounge up a freind for a few minutes tomorrow night. Just so were clear on what I'm looking for tomorrow .... It is the peice on the outside of the unit correct, The part with the little boot covering it.

So, if it would happen to be the slave cylander then what. Would that mean changing the slave cylander and the clutch or just the slave cylander? Just curiouse, if I dont have to go inside that would be sweet but, If for any reason I have to crack that case then I'm changing the clutch also. With 141,000 miles on it then I'm better off doing it while it's open.Don't get me wrong though, I'm praying that that doesn't have to happen.

My wife and I went out today. I had my wife push on the clutch over and over and the fork is moving back and forth like it should. everything on the outside is still intact and working properly. I still have not looked inside though. I cannot find the place to look inside and if it's where those rubber covers are then I stopped trying to pry them off because they are only held on by a tiny bit now from trying to get them off.


Here's ice breaker though, while under the sporty I heard a sharp whistling noise and when I moved the fork even just a tiny bit the noise stopped. Then it started again and same thing moved the fork and it stoped. I was able to make is whistle and scrape just by moving the end of the fork a tiny bit. It's like the inner part of the fork was rubbing against something or like the bearings in there were whistling and I was able to stop it.


Problem two, I just found this problem while under the truck. I have a big oil leak somewhere. It's dripping down right on the front diff. I thought at first that it was coming from the oil pan but then I noticed it was coming from up top somewhere. Is there an oil line up there or something? I reached behind the valve cover from the driver side and couldn't feel any oil. I looked from the top and the bottom with a flashlight and couldn't spot the source of the leak. How about a few pointers on where to look for this. Maybe when I put it up on the jack I will be able to see better from underneith.

The throwout bearing is toast.




I'll bet the gasket for the oil cooler is leaking. Check around the filter mount.

I believe pulling that tranny will answer your question.
Being a mechanic, I have seen many broken Pressure Plates where there are only 2 forks working on a spring plate and 3 or 4 broken blades broken on the Diaphram type pressure plates (not sure if the sportage has the 3 finger or diaphram type pressure plate).
Broken fingers will still feel normal on the pedal, but will not let the clutch disengage, thus duplicating what your symptom's are. It will also smoke a throw-out bearing quick and throwing it off center causing it to squeal.
Definately replace everything. Pilot Bearing, Clutch, Pressure Plate, and Throw-out bearing. Inspect and have the flywheel machined if there are grooves cut in the face or there is signs of scalping (heat cracks in the face with a discoloration around them) Look for a machine shop, or auto parts store that will do this service (usually around 20 bucks).
Also look at the shift fork for bends or cracks. If it's straight (by design it may have a slight bend, but if it's stressed bent, the edges will be flared out, but if it looks good) you can re-use it.
Checking all re-used parts and having that flywheel machined, will add about 30% more life to the new clutch.
Making a new clutch disk burn into a grooved flywheel, will take valuable material away and may also cause the new clutch to chatter, or grab, which is very annoying.

Thank's, that answered my next question about the flywheel. I have one more question before ordering a clutch. Can I have some ideas as to which clutch to by? I have heard many names but they really dont mean anything to me because I know nothing about them.

Anyone with personal experiences or personal preferances? I would like a clutch with some grab, Nice and stiff. I wont be happy at all if I come up with one that is all smushy and soft. I would like to order this on thursday so please speak up if there are any I should go for. Thank You to all who helped me through this so far. I haven't started the work yet so I may need ya yet but, Thank's.

Maybe this,
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...p;item=7962478575&category=33730

Yes, I saw that one. Is that a decent brand name though? I saw in some posts from 02 that people were talking the napa clutch being to spongy and the beck and arnley ones from Advanced being crapy but they said there was this zoom clutch from advanced that was good and I have been unable to find it at advanced. Then there are a-1 cardone that I haven't been able to find a listing for the sportage and then I hear the LUK clutch isn't that great either. Like I said though I really dont know personally. I am just going by what others tell me.

Now we can go back to my original thread, the reason I said to check if the truck goes into gears while it is off, and run when turned on was to check if there is anything wrong with a synchronizer. If the truck runs and goes into gears while off, most likely it's the pressure plate. It so happens that if for some reason the pressure plate loses pressure, you'll not have any gearing, also if the pressure plate comes out of aligement, there will be no gearing. One more thing, if the pressure plate is not set up with the clutch 9come in the same box), ie. you buy them separately or just change the clutch and not the pressure plate, your truck might not go into gear. I learned this the hard way and now I buy the set even if it's more expensive so they match.

Thank's, I plan to buy the whole set. What kind did you get? How does it work? Did it grab good or is it a little big mushy?

Next Question, the flywheel. Do I absolutly have to get this turned or is it like when you do your brakes and your supposed to turn the rotors? Sometimes you do and sometimes you dont. I dont want to have to mess with the starter along with everything else. If so, I was just thinking about buying a new flywheel that way I dont have to worry about trying to find a ride to get it done. Besides I think I will be doing this easter sunday and there arent any places open then. that means I will have to take it apart sunday and then assemble it on monday. I really can't go that route. It's getting tough to find a willing baby sitter.