Hey all:

I have a wicked vibration and it appears that I may have toasted either an engine or tranny mount. The vibration occurs between 1600 - 2000 rpms regardless of gear, so its not the driveshaft (different gears = different revolving rates on the driveshaft - plus, I recently had the driveshaft straightened at (what I hope) was a reputable shop).

Upon searching +"engine mount" I found the most informative post HERE , but I still have some questions ...

When lifting the engine with the jack from the oil pan <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/zombie.gif" alt="" />, should I undo or loosen both engine mounts first or only one at a time to keep the drivetrain in the correct orientation?

Should I also remove or loosen the tranny mount?

Is there a better place to lift (I don't have access to an engine hoist); the oil pan seems kinda flimsy to me (even with a 2x4)?

Lastly, when removing the engine mounts, I was planning on removing the engine mount from the block first, as these bolts appear easiest to get to, raising the engine slightly then undoing the bolts attaching the mount to the frame; is this correct order or is there a better sequence that you would recommend?

Thanks all,

I helped a guy replace his tranny/engine mounts on an older blazer. He used the oil pan with a 2X4 and he has a v8 so i think you will be ok. He first got the wieght off of the mounts, then unbolted them, then lifted them up enought to put new ones in. I didnt watch the tranny, so sorry on that.

Good luck. Oh he noticed they were shot because it made a knocking noise. Also watch your enine when starting. You'd think it would move side to side pretty easy,


kevan

only advice I have is:

1} use a pc of plywood etc.....roughly cut to the pan size.
2} on top of said wide board take an old towel or a couple shop rags and fold them several times over,so they fit ontop of the board.....this will help the wood conform to the oilpan better.........it'll help keep the pan from denting in.
padding only needs to be 1/4" thick or so.
You don't want your pan to cave in and block the oil pickup screen/inlet.

Bansil

Also watch the firewall/engine "parts" clearance....like the heater hoses.......I'd keep the tranny mount attached....maybe loosen the bolts a couple turns so you don't jack up the engine to much and bind the tranny mount.

Thanks Kev and Bansil - good advice.

Has anyone removed the engine mounts from frame side (vs the engine block) first? There's not alot of room in there and if so, I'm just wondering how you did it because this would be my preference.

Thanks again,