Winston for a '77 again you're most likely looking at an offset rear axle. You want the front only in that case.

Like I've mentioned to you a couple of times now, only '80 and newer are centered. Even Waggies which had the centered tcase had an offset rear axle to keep the driveshaft from hitting the gas tank.

Where in CA are you? I see guys from the Pirate board (mostly CA) all the time getting cheap, complete axles from the pick n pull junkyards.

Well I got a front but the rear was offset just like you said CSP. I fanagled with the guy and got the COMPLETE front axle...basically everything that touches the axle minus the shocks for $250. The axle is in really good shape and looks like the tie rod ends and ball joints have all been replaced fairly recently. The knuckles are also set up with everything on the top which is nice. So I guess now the only thing I need to do is to track down a rear axle and change the front to 5 on 5.5 bolt pattern.

if you're going to get a new rear axle, leave the front 6 lug and get a toyota rear end from an 87 or later ifs toy truck. the width will match, it's 6 on 5.5 bolt circle, and the axle is plenty strong. you should be able to find one for a couple bills.

i'm going to run the waggy offset 44 rear(same as yours) with a centered t-case output. the offset is only about 4". i've stretched the rear 10" but with the dual t-case setup in mine, our rear driveshaft lengths will still be comparable. i don't see a problem with it. unfortunately, i won't be finished for a while so i can't tell you that it works. i've seen a few jeeps with the offset waggy 44/dana 300 combo. they've all been custom applications like buggies and such but i'm willing to try it to save a few bucks. worst case scenario for me is buying a very expensive driveshaft if i have problems with the OE style.

a good way for you to get a couple extra inches of driveshaft length is to run waggy front leafs in the rear. they're offset 2" and they're 2 1/2" wide. they're a little longer than yj/cj springs but you can unbolt the rear shackle hanger and flip it 180 degrees and bolt it back up. the springs will fit fine. once again, i haven't done it but i would think you could trim the diamond plate pieces you're going to install on the back to fit tj rear flares. that should center your rear tire in the wheel well. it should look and perform great, give you 2" more rear driveshaft length, and it's cheap.

if you're doing soa for the first time, you will need to address spring wrap in the rear and steering up front. there is info all over the internet on soa conversions so solutions to problems won't be hard to find. it all costs money though.

The only rear axle that you're going to find that's 5 on 5.5" and near the same width as your new front is a Scout 44.

Why not just use an '80 and up Waggie rear axle (either an AMC 20 or Dana 44) and leave the bolt pattern alone on the front?

So I found an axle today at a pick and pull junkyard that I think will work. Its out of an 88 wagoneer. Seems to have a centered diff...or better than the one I have. has a 6 on 5.5 which matches the front axle I just bought and it has some kind of limited slip or something. At least thats what the inside sticker said. I didn't have my tape measure on me but It looked just about right. Is this going to be too wide or will this work?

Thanks

sounds good. nice find. how much does it cost?

about 200 with no brakes

Brakes are going to run me about 150 plus some oil and all that...around 380

seems pretty good to me.

can't you use the brakes off the 44 you already have or is there something different about the newer one? either way, sounds like a good deal. did you get the front in yet? any problems?

I haven't touched the front yet. I am still reading up on how to make it spring over. I ordered a bunch of stuff from JW jeep, and I was hoping it would come in today but I guess not. That was what I was going to work on this weekend. I may decide to try and get the front axle ready. Any tips on making the passnger side (side with the perch cast into the case) ready to roll? I'm just afraid that if I start grinding that I will fubar it up and then I will be screwed. Another question is that I bought the brake stuff tonight and I don't know if they gave me the wrong drums or if I didn't look close enough at the axle but they gave me a set of drums with a 5 lug pattern. I looked at so many today and mabye I got it confused. According to Jedi.com its a 6 lug but I don't remember now. I hope its a six lug because I want some new (read: different used ones) rims <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/shiner.gif" alt="" />

Let me get this right, you don't know if the rear axle is five lug or six lug based on the brake drums??

All Waggies are six lug. The axle you bought is the same width as the one that would have accompanied the front axle you bought, so the match is a good one.

As far as messing up the perch on the pumpkin, grind a little and bust out the angle finder. If you level the old perch and grind the new perch so that it is parallel with the old one, you're golden. Just use a small bubble level to check the angle. Grind slowly, measure often. Patience is the key to prevent a mistake.