No, what I am saying is that I looked at many different d44's today and I couldn't remember if the one I decided on was a 5 lug or a six lug...basically second guessing myself. Damn parts place the get the wrong parts all the time. Thats what I get for not opening and checking the last two boxes <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/angry.gif" alt="" /> Where the heck to I find an angle finder at? I think the level Idea will work for me <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/notooth.gif" alt="" />. Is it best to use a cutoff wheel or just a grinding wheel? I appreciate your advice so thanks for the tip. I'm going to talk with a few of my buddies from the local club tommorow about it as well and hopefully tackle it sunday or possibly monday.

So tommorrow I'm going to get the axle. And I'm going to pull some warn hubs I found off of a chevy as well. wooohooo. Oh yeah and I finished the new skidplate today as well.
Pics HERE

Sure glad I'm taking pictures of all this...going to make a great website oneday on what an idiot I am <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" />...possibly help a few people out in the mean time. But I doubt anyone else is as insane as I am to attempt a frame, engine, rewire, retube, reaxle, rebody, soa, reversal, skid plate....masterpiece <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/shiner.gif" alt="" />

GetRdoNe <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" />

i didn't grind much off the housing but ground a lot off the short side perch.

Hey nice pics. That helps me out allot. Where did you get that spring mount? Also, what are you doing about your steering?

So I got the rear axle home today from pic and pull. Well about half way through it I noticed a small piece of rubber sticking out the bottom of the diff. So I pulled on it and was about to freak out because apparently the bastards at pic and pull drill holes in the diff cover to drain them before they put them in the yard . <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/angry.gif" alt="" /> I can't wait to open it up and see what kind of metal pieces I can find. Another thing is, on of the axles I can move in and out about 1/16" of an inch or so. Is this a bad thing?

Thanks for the pics

<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" />

i got the mount at 4 wheelers supply. it's called a Mopar style spring perch but it you ask for it, not many parts counter guys will know what you're talking about. Rubicon express has them. Look on their website. They were $22 at 4ws.

for steering, i like the rockstomper double arms or whatever they are where the tie rod mounts behind the axle. i may go with the blue torch or some other conventional style hi steer setup though. currently, i have an old school steering arm that looks home made on the passenger side and the tie rod under the springs on the stock steering arms. your rig is very similar to mine so let me know if you need pics or anything.

I'm looking at doing a high steer. I found a set of wagoneer knuckles already drilled and tapped for around 200? Is this a good price?

it sounds good. i've seen them go from $30 to $300 for one. check ebay and see what they're going for and compare that way. i didn't have to buy mine so i don't really know. one thing i've run into is the stud holes. mine are 9/16 - 18 but most of the stud kits and arms i'm finding are 5/8 - 18. do a lot of research before you buy any steering parts. it's going to get expensive. i think the chevy tie rod ends are about $50 ea. arms average $100 ea. stud kits $70 for both sides. then you still need the links. there are lots of ways to do it, just make sure you plan it out well. the arms i've seen advertised usually say they work with the big chevy tre's or heim joints. i'm not sure if there is anything on the market that you could use your stock steering linkage with.

i'm still researching the steering. i'll let you know what i come up with.

That price is a lot higher than I'd be willing to spend. I pull my own knuckles for about $20/pair. I have a machinist that mills/drills/taps for $80 each. The key is I use Chevy knuckles that are already drilled and tapped on the drivers side.

valleycat is absolutely correct about high steer being expensive. I have over $300 in mine and I built my own tie-rod and draglink. Think hard about buying from a vendor like Parts Mike. His kits are cheaper than what it cost me to put my own together and I get jobber cost at the parts store.

i talked to mike and the deal with his arms is, you have to use a 1 piece tie rod/drag link likage, like tri county's. it's about $550 for the whole setup. jason bunch is proud of his too. i don't remember what he wanted but it was enough to cross him off the list. mike said the seperate crossover links don't work as well. i'm not sure how much i believe that. i think i can build my own for around $300 with arms from blue torch or spyder. mike's stud kits and tre's are a good deal though. like i said before, do a lot of research. there are many different options.

CSP, are you using 9/16 or 5/8 studs? are 9/16 strong enough or should i nut up and re drill for 5/8? thanks.

Jim

I used the 9/16" parts. No problems so far, but I haven't wheeled it that hard since it was done.

Parts Mike is definitely the right guy for the TRE's. My jobber cost couldn't touch his for the same Moog brand parts.

I figured the amount of gas to go to the junkyard and back, 40 bucks, get the knuckles...which here in the bay area are all about 50-100 bucks a pair, and get them machined (gas there and back plus outragous prices here, it all comes out to about 300. I just paid $160 for a set this morning and that was good enough for me. I'm hoping I can make a set of arms from work. We have 1" thick steel lying around. I figure If I make them straight out I can use the inverted Y setup thats already on there...mabye. My prodject is about to come to a screeching hault when my wife gets back from oregon <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/shiner.gif" alt="" /> But Hey I still need to fab up some spring mounts, weld them on and hopefulley get the axles ready to rock and roll.