|
|
|
|
Re: Diff Oil
[Re: Jake97T]
#585593
03/29/05 12:07 AM
|
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 58
Getting the Wheeling Fever
|
Trying to go off memory here, is that 80W-90 for the rear diff?
|
|
Re: Diff Oil
[Re: Jake97T]
#585594
03/29/05 12:11 AM
|
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 2,125
Body Damage is Cool
|
They're either lying or ignorant. It's not a "period" any longer than the first drive. Drive easily for a few miles, stop and let the diff cool. Repeat. 2-3 cycles of this on the first drive should be sufficient, and then you can hammer it again. Excessive heat can be the kiss of death to new gears. read.
~Adam  96 T100: D44, lockers and stuff
|
|
Re: Diff Oil
[Re: sluggo]
#585595
03/29/05 12:15 AM
|
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 2,125
Body Damage is Cool
|
80/90, 75/90, either one.
~Adam  96 T100: D44, lockers and stuff
|
|
Re: Diff Oil
[Re: adam]
#585596
03/29/05 02:16 AM
|
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 1,489
OP
Body Damage is Cool
|
Well luckily for me i just drove it home im pretty sure, didnt do any wheeling, just all street driving, i dont know if that constitutes taking it easy or not, i didnt do any cooling time, hopefully ill be okay, what kind of things should i look and listen for that might say something is wrong???
97 FZJ80, Stock, Factory Lockers.
|
|
Re: Diff Oil
[Re: Jake97T]
#585597
03/29/05 07:45 AM
|
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 2,125
Body Damage is Cool
|
Undue noise is about the only clue you'll get, if that. If they overheat too badly the gears could take on a bluish, burned tint. More often I think people just end up wondering once they find teeth in the drain pan why the gearset only lasted a year or three without giving any obvious signs of failure.
~Adam  96 T100: D44, lockers and stuff
|
|
Re: Diff Oil
[Re: adam]
#585598
03/29/05 04:08 PM
|
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 58
Getting the Wheeling Fever
|
The owners manual says 2.5 quarts of SAE 90 hypoid gear oil. What the heck is a hypoid? Still think 75W-90 is OK?
|
|
Re: Diff Oil
[Re: sluggo]
#585599
03/29/05 07:09 PM
|
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 1,489
OP
Body Damage is Cool
|
75W/90 is what the books say for the diffs, i got 3.1 qts for the rear end, didnt quite hold that much but close to it.
97 FZJ80, Stock, Factory Lockers.
|
|
Re: Diff Oil
[Re: sluggo]
#585600
03/29/05 07:21 PM
|
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 2,125
Body Damage is Cool
|
Google anyone? >Can someone explain the difference between Hypoid and Non-Hypoid >oil?
"Hypoid" is not really a question of oil, so much as a question of gearcutting. Old (1920's) rear axles used straight bevel gears to form the crownwheel and pinion. These had two disadvantage, the pinion shaft meets the crownwheel on its central axis, and the straight cut gears are noisy. By using a more complex "hypoid" gear tooth shape (if you look at a pinion, the teeth appear twisted) these problems can be addressed. The more gradual engagement of the teeth along their length reduces noise. By careful design of the geometry the pinion can be made to mesh _below_ the axis of the crownwheel. As the centre height of the crownwheel is fixed by the wheel height, this allows the propshaft to be lowered relative to the car body, giving a clearer floorpan and lower centre of gravity for better cornering. Hypoid bevels are now universal in this application.
Because of the sliding contact that hypoid gears make, their hydrodynamic contact pressure is higher. To be suitable for use with hypoid gears, a lubricant must be capable of resisting high pressures.
Oils with "EP" ratings (Extreme Pressure) such as EP90 are required. Some brands describe themselves as "hypoid" instead, a term which is synonymous with EP. GL-5 is a formal API standard for this type of oil (comparable to MIL-L-2105B/C/D)
~Adam  96 T100: D44, lockers and stuff
|
|
|
|
|
|