Quite true, always best to do the pumping method. There is only one other better way, but it is costly in fluid, really difficult sounding and I have never done it, reverse bleeding, where you start feeding fluid from the ends you normally drain from.
As for your bubbles... when did they do this? I experienced a master cylinder going out once when there were bubbles coming out of the line connection. This was on the clutch master cylinder and was at the brass fitting's O-Ring....

Who are you asking?

I haven't tried the pump on my Willys yet, just tried to help a friend. It was my first time using it. The manual said this may happen and to put teflon tape on the bleeder threads. I think your right about as long as there's a vacuum (it held a constant 10") I shouldn't worry about it. I'm going to bleed the Willys brake system and use DOT5 as a replacement. Maybe I'll just chuck the lines while I'm at it. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/notooth.gif" alt="" />

i belive that since during normal pumping bleeding there aren't massive pressures involved that the viscosity of the fluid keeps it from coming out the threads, but the same leak is present. personally i like knowing that i drew fresh new fluid straight through from the source and seeing the old nasty fluid in the plastic container. that's kinda my guage for when i'm done...it's all fresh fluid in the cup. this obviously wouldn't be the case it you'e going new everything...no old fluid. i'd probably draw a few full cups off of each wheel and twice off the first rear i did to make sure no air was lost at the Y. what is it $4 for the big can of fluid? it's pretty much trash after you open it since it'll be a year before you need it again.

Tom if you put the cap back on tight it stays good! I've had some for years and it still is good.
We have surge brakes on our trailers and have used a bunch of that stuff.. Once in a while I have come up with an old dusty container and the stuff still smells and acts the same.
Big JIm <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/pfft.gif" alt="" />

BigJim, its one of those Old Wives Tails....
I don't use old hydrolic fluids, just because it is so cheap to buy new, but won't use fluid that hasn't been capped or I don't know who capped it. Kindof like ammunition.....

Not an old wives tale, I remember from school thirty some years ago, Brake fluid (DOT 3 & 4) is Glycol based and hydroscopic or hygroscopic, meaning it is quick to absorb water from it's surroundings. I don't think DOT 5 fluid had been invented yet (It is silicon based and does not absorb water)so they didn't mention it. Anyhoo that's why they don't recommend keeping it around a long time though it should be OK if tightly sealed. Trouble is you can't tell by looking (or smelling) how much moisture it has absorbed over time. Moisture lowers it's boiling point which can = bad news! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />