OK sounds like this is what I hear being repeted, looks like I will be shoping for an ARB or other selecible locker for the front. Somehow I missed this post origianlly. Maybe I will try to see if I can get a cheap limited slip for the rear, since the rear will not last long anyway, the LS and axle will have to be replaced. With a LS in the rear you can play a little with the emergency brake to help out with traction.

Chris, It's so confusing! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" /> Now I'm not sure I understand what you seem to have made clear to Fred.You said, You're right about when the axels in the front are locked together but with an automatic locker like the Aussie or Lock Rite the problem with steering happens, in part, due to lack of traction. The better the traction the better the steering. If the wheels were not able to skid over the ground then the faster turning wheel would disengage. The steering problem, when talking auto lockers both ends, is proportional to speed, The slower one goes and the less traction present, the worse it is. Starting from a dead stop in loose soil, mud or gravel is the worse case scenario. The front wheels start off at the same speed even if the wheels are turned hard over, and because they immediately start to skid and loose traction, the stay locked and there is no force present to spin the outside wheel faster. Then you will barely turn, until you start moving.
It's a different story with both ends fully locked with a spool or selectable locker. Big Jim touched on a good point when he said something about the drive shafts turning the same RPM and thus turning the wheels the same RPM. Although the outside wheels CAN turn faster with a auto locker the driven wheels have to turn exactly the same speed. This is ANOTHER factor that adds to the problem to some degree. The problem is the same no matter what kind of locker you have but there are different factors involved with the different types of lockers, seems to me. Whew, I need another beer! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/drunk.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/drunk.gif" alt="" />

Ok so it sounds like the Aussie locker up front still will not allow you to steer while its "locked",, What about the new locker from Detroit EZ locker, it is supposed to disengage when turing. I think it makes this loud clicking sound too. This was my plan for my 98 wrangler, I am looking into putting a superior axle into the D35 i think it will last running 33's. what do you think?
cheers
Mud

Jeepete, now I'm confused, again! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" /> I was satisfied with Chris' answer and could easily see how my ARB in the front axle maintains both wheels with equal rotation. Actually, your post was another eye-opener. I tend to think that auto and selectable full lockers like the ARB, all work alike, but they don't ... good point about how automatic lockers have to allow some slip. I have no experience with the Lockrite and EZlocker, but on my Detroit soft locker in the rear axle, when it slips, it makes a loud bang! I doubt if the soft locker in the front axle would allow me to turn any easier than when the ARB is engauged. I'll have one of your beers, now! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />

Christian,

Well, isn't that special! Isusu is the only manufacturer of "built strong" 4x4's!

Okay, your continuous whine about Jeeps is getting old with me! You want to blame Jeep for your purchase of a Wrangler fitted with a D35 . . . it's time you face the obvious . . . you can't continue blaming others for your own decisions! Face it, you made a purchase without doing the necessary research. What you wanted was a Jeep with a D44 rear axle, which is available. What you did was buy a Jeep with a notoriously weak rear axle . . . plus you made the purchase knowing this information! My God, man! You're an engineer! Get over it! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/shame.gif" alt="" />

Least you forget, you had this notion that the D30 was not as stout/strong as the D35 axle . . . a common newbie misunderstanding. You've asked us to consider your previous wheeling experience, but it's wearing a little thin when you suggest lockers multiply driveshaft torque to the wheels! It's also difficult to take the time to attempt to help someone if all they do is sling garbage at your favorite 4x4! Most of the comments have been based on common knowledge and experience in the above posts . . . not "everyone is going to have a different opinion"!

Now, you will need to purchase a rear axle twice to have the axle you need to frequently four wheel with peace of mind. Or, you could sell the Wrangler! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

The Detroit ez locker is another version of the same design as the Aussie and Lock rite. They will Increase turning radius some, depending on speed and ground conditions like I tied to explain above. They don't eliminate steering, I have no problem steering most of the time when in 4wd. I don't regret installing the Aussie locker in the front one bit. But I have the option of disengaging the front driveshaft when 4wd is not needed,on the fly, in high range or low.
I've heard of people putting auto lockers in YJ's and using a cable operated disconnect to get around the steering problem in low range, but then you have the driver side axel locked at the same speed as the locked rear so I IMAGINE there would be some degradation of turning radius, but on the plus side you would still have three wheel drive. You would also have the front drive shaft turning at all times, on and offroad. I don't want to go that route on my YJ. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />

Alright, I got the first part right regarding locked together axle shafts, but got the part about the Aussie locker bass ackwards! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/ignore.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/baby.gif" alt="" /> JeePete should know, he's got one. Actually two I think. So it steers relatively okay when both wheels are under load with good traction because the locker is allowed to unlock, when a wheel is slipping you loose steering because the locker does what it's supposed to do - locks up. Jeesum. I'm going ARB both ends when I've got the cash. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />

Fred - chill.

Never once said this, all I said is Isuzu builds stout front IFS and comes standard with a Dana44 rear, never said they are the only ones, never dissed on Jeep, I bought a Jeep because they offer the only solid axle in front, a huge advantage over all others and the aftermarket support is better than any other. They are the only true off-road vehicle being built today.
Yep, your right, I didn't realize how weak.
Never said this either, what I said is in an automatic locker the faster moving (outside) wheel is supposed to get unlocked, therefore the inside wheel has all of the torq on it since it is now the driving wheel. Torque is multiplied by gear reduction in the diff and by the x-fer case.
Never meant to do this, I do find it a little discouraging that I will have to put a new rear axle in even for moderate trails. But like my reply says (a few post up) I took your advise and I am going to buy a selectable locker for the front, like you and a few others suggested.

I absolutely thank you and the others for your input, you had already changed my mind, I have already started looking for good prices on ARB for the front. I am glad I posted so I didn't sink money into the wrong axle/places.

the dana 35 is not made of glass. i flog mine on the rocks at table mesa in my xj. just know the terrain and don't take lines that will break your sh*t. know your jeep and what it's capable of. as far as an lsd front/lunchbox in back, i'm running a powerlok front, lockright rear in my d44's on my cj. i think its a good, cheap, setup. the lsd front will save axles/u joints in lieu of traction. i have a warn 8274 to fill that gap. if the lockrite doesn't hold up, i'll buy a detroit. most guys will tell you that incrementalism is bad but when you get your carriers/diffs for the price of a pizza and a 12 pack, why not try it.

i say buy a cheap lockrite for the back and leave the front open. if you plan to run mild trails(like fr-42)that's all you'll need. if you want to run anaconda, highway to hell, and asylum, upgrade your axles.

if you want to test the limits of the 35c, send me a PM. we'll see what they can do.

Ok, it appears this thread is finito. I'll just borrow it for a second to tell you, Chris, I'd look into the Ox lockers (I've been looking for the YJ!). If I had the cash now I'd get the package deal from 4wheel parts, Two ox lockers with control cables, HD diff covers, two sets of ring and pinions, two master install kits for $1630, free shipping. the closest I could come to this same package price wise from a single source online was about $50 more excluding shipping. that was also figuring a Detroit in the rear, it would have been close to $1900 with two ox's at that place,
4wheel parts's prices are not that great for most stuff but some of the package deals look interesting. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />

ps: That price (1630) is in their catalog/magazine, their website shows the same package for 1800 and something.