The trooper rad is a 3 row rad and if it is in good shape with the correct fan shroud i would think it would cool it , i used that same rad in a trooper with a 4.3 chevy and an automatic trans and never had a prob, with cooling, from the looks of the eng mts in the photos this eng came from a trooper with the front bracket that overhang the the frame mts, i have been doing a lot of measuring with those mts and if you remove the cushions and replace them with the 4 cyl gas cushion i think you may be surprised at how close they come to the orig , frt and rear bolt holes on the trooper frt frame mts , from what i could measure they would come within a 1/4 inch of fitting , the reason behind this thinking is the trooper in japan and parts of europe is available or was with the 2.6 eng up untill at least 1998 ,very doubful the frame are that much diff, trans mts should be very close , something you might want to consider is the clutch setup i have done 2 coversions on the mua trans which is what you have, and changed them over to the cable operated setup by using the early throwout arm and release bearing, takes about 2 hrs to convert it over and it (or rather they) have been working great for over 2 years now , one in an 87 with the mua and one in an 89 with a turbo dsl conv, be glad to explain how i did the conv, if interested Jerry

Hello Everyone, This is the first time I have posted. I am very excited to find this forum. I have a 89 Trooper with a 2.8L Gas engine and I have been thinking about changing to a Turbo Diesel. I had no clue how to do this or even if it could be done. I noticed that user ACY76 is performing this switch now and has a site that details this switch. This is great. I would like to talk to you ACY76 so I am going to list my phone number for you to call me. I have alot of questions that could be answered in several minutes on the phone. Please call me my name is steve and I live just outside Knoxville TN in the Smoky Mountains. If you would prefer I call you I will list my e mail so you can mail you number to me. My number is 865-742-3070 and my mail is humanesocietysteve@yahoo.com ... Looking forward to talking to you soon. Steve

Tom_G -- The transmission shift pattern is the same as the US models. RHD drivers just shift with their left hand, same pattern as LHD.

Jerry -- That is encouraging news on the radiator and mounts. I'll try using the C223 radiator and see how it goes. I think they're still available, maybe a good used unit...

I am going to be doing some much more accurate measuring very soon, with photos. I'll post the results and I'd like to get your opinion on them. If the gas mounts are close, that may be the ticket. I'm not shying away from fabrication, but I don't want to spend more time than I have to on this.

I'd like to hear more about the clutch conversion and about your diesel conversion project as well.

Well, the verdict is in: the 4JB1-T is NOT a direct bolt-in swap for the 1988 Trooper chassis (U.S. model, anyway -- AND it is possible that I've got the wrong mount brackets with my engine for this chassis). The mounts for the engine are about 1-7/8" forward of where they need to be.
The mounts themselves (the rubber isolator / bracket that goes between the steel frame perches and the engine block brackets) are very similar in design to the 4-cyl. gas mounts. There are 2 bolts that attach to the engine bracket instead of one, but the frame side - with the two holes spaced ~5" apart - is the same.
So, the diesel mounts will bolt to the frame. I just need to fabricate some new engine block brackets. Shouldn't be too hard, as I've got the diesel engine and gas engine to measure from. The diesel also has extra holes in the block, I assume to facilitate mounting in other applications, that I can use for the new brackets.

Right now, the project is held up a bit by the 3 crossmember bolts that have broken off in the frame. So far, I've broken a drill bit off in one and an extractor is broken off in another. I'm trying to weld some nuts onto them so I can thread them out (after generous application of heat, of course). Any suggestions welcomed!

Also, I think I've secured a good used C223 radiator to use. Hopefully it will work - should save me some cash. Looks like I'll be spending some on setting up a miniature metal shop to make the mounts. I think a bandsaw, drill press, bench grinder and bench vise will suffice...

More later ...

EDIT: Aug. 4 2005 Not so sure this sucker won't bolt right in ...

Read more recent posts for the REAL verdict!

Is there any difference in the motor mount configuration between the 2.6 I-4 and the 2.8 v6? Perhaps mounting the 4JB1-T to a 2.8 might be easier. Also, I am confused on what the Aussies are saying. Was the 4JB1-T mounted to pre 1991 Jackaroos? Also there are lots of folks in the U.K. that are swapping the 3.0 for the 2.8 for varios reasons, but this is for the post 1991 Trooper build. The 4JB1-T seams to be redily availble from Isuzu industrial dealers. There are even used and remanufactured engines available. Does this mean that auxilillary parts (filters, belts, houses, etc.) can be found here in the U.S.? I really want to pursue converting a Trooper to home-brew bio-diesel, but don't want to really on Aussie part suppliers (most don't ship to the U.S.).

Anyway I appreciate this forum and hope to be converting soon.

For those of you interested in other 4JB1-T conversions check out the Jeep conversion at http://www.canev.com/Jeep.html

acy76 IF YOU HAVENT MODIFIED THE MTR MTS AS YET , , HERE IS WHAT I DID TO THE 89, I USED THE ORIG, 223T ENG CUSHIONS IN THE ORIG SPACE ON THE BLOCK MOUNTS AND THE STOCK 2 --BOLT HOLES ON THE FRAME MTS, THIS GAVE ME THE CORRECT POSITION FOR THE FAN TO RAD CLEARNANCE , BUT WITH THE DSL IT ALSO MOVES THE TRANS BACK ABOUT THE DISTANCE YOU HAVE FOUND 1 7/8 TO 2 INCH OR SO, THE CROSSMEMBER REAR MOUNT HAS 2 SETS OF HOLES FOR THE MUA TRANS, JUST USE THE REAR SET AND THE STOCK REAR CUSHION, THE FRT HALF OF THE REAR DRIVSHAFT HAD TO BE SHORTENED THE SAME AMOUNT ,SO THE CENTER BEARING STILL LINED UP AND THE REAR SHAFT HAD NOTHING DONE TO IT , THE MALE SLIP PART OF THE FRONT HAD TO BE LENTGHENED THE SAME AMOUNT , AS IT TURNED OUT I HAD THAT PART IN A PILE OF DRIVESHAFTS THAT I ALLWAYS SAVE FOR CONVERSIONS , I USED THE STOCK DSL THROTTLE CABLE , BUT DID MODIFY THE STOCK CLUTCH ARM TO ACCEPT A CABLE UNDER THE DASH BY WELDING THE END TO IT FROM A CABLE OPERATED PEDAL ASSY, HAD TO DRILL A HOLE IN THE FIREWALL FOR THE CABLE TO LINE UP , I USED A 3/16 PLATE ABOUT 3X4 INCH AS A BACKUP ON THE ENG SIDE OF THE FIREWALL FOR THE CABLE TO PULL AGAINST, I USED THE THROWOUT ARM IN THE DRV SIDE OF THE MUA TRANS FROM THE OLD CABLE SETUP, ON THE C223T ENG THERE IS A HOLE IN THE ENG ADAPTER PLATE FOR THE CABLE TO RUN THRU, BY USING THE C223 THROWOUT BRN ASSY ON THE 223 ARM AND POSITIONING IT IN THE MUA HOUSING, POINTING DOWN AT ABOUT THE 7.0CLOCK POSITION LOOKING FROM THE REAR, THERE SHOULD BE A CAST IN PLATE ON THE SIDE OF THE BELLHOUSING THAT YOU HAVE TO CUT OUT , IT IS VERY THIN RIGHT THERE ALMOST LIKE A KNOCK OUT , NOW POSITION THE THROWOUT ARM ASSY OVER THE INPUT BEARING RETAINER AND HOLD THE ARM IN THE APPROX, POSITION AND FABRICATE A SMALL L SHAPED BRAKET , (IUSED 1/4 INCH) ABOUT 1 1/2 INCH WIDE AND ABOUT 3 INCHS LONG, THIS IS THE TRICKY PART, BEND THE BRACKET TO JUST LAY IN THE RECESS UNDER THE ARM , IT SHOULD REST ON THE RIBS ON THE FRONT PORTION OF THE CASE AND THE OUTER WALL OF THE BELL HOUSING , NOW JUST POSITION THE PIVOT BALL IN PLACE AND MARK AND DRILL IT , NOW UP ON THE PIECE THAT LAYS AGAINST THE BELL HOUSING AREA DRILL A HOLE STRAIGHT THRU THE BRACKET AND THE BELLHOUSING WALL FOR A 10 MM BOLT AND BOLT IT UP AND YOU SHOULD HAVE NO PROBLEM, WITH THIS SETUP , THIS I AM ASSUMING THAT THE OIL FILTER HOUSING IS ON THE PASS SIDE OF THE ENG, AS THE C223 IS, I HAD NO ROOM FOR THE HYD, SLAVE SETUP, AND IT HAS BEEN WORKING FINE FOR OVER 2 YEARS NOW , GUESS I SHOULD HAVE TAKEN A LOT OF PIXS, LET ME KNOW IF I CAN HELP YOU OUT JERRY

As far as I know, the 2.6 and 2.8 Trooper frame mounts are identical (as per an old post by Jerry I found here) so it wouldn't matter which truck you chose. I haven't seen the V6 engine brackets or rubber mounts, but it wouldn't matter as the diesel rubber mounts will work perfectly well and I doubt very much that the V6 engine brackets would line up with the diesel block.

I am not sure of the factory applications for the engine - I think it was 1988-91 (or 92?) boxy Troopers and some of the Rodeos and pickups. Truthfully, I'm not even sure how the model names correspond. I've seen what we call the Trooper called both the Bighorn and the Jackaroo. There's also a MU, which I think is our Rodeo...

I believe the 2.8 and 3.0 (maybe 3.1 too) share the same block, so the swap is much easier if the chassis is already set up for it as it is in the UK.

I don't think using an industrial unit would be appropriate for a passenger car, as they're not the same. Not certain of the exact differences - timing gears vs. belt being one - but the ones I've seen for sale aren't turbocharged and have the wrong bellhousing. Anyway, I got a much better deal than what I've seen industrial units go for on eBay.

Filters (oil is really the only one - the fuel finter is external so you can use what you want) shouldn't be a problem from what I've read, but the timing belts do have to come from overseas. About $65 shipped, good for 30k miles. Some parts should interchange with the industrial units, such as head gaskets and water pumps, so not all pieces will have to be sourced from afar, but it's not like finding bits for your GM unfortunately. You'd have to be prepared for this. But, C223 parts seem to be at least as hard to find, so it doesn't bother me much - yet ...

Jerry --

Thanks for the info. I am assuming that you're referring to installing a C223 engine into an 89 Trooper? (Although you mention converting to a cable clutch, so I guess you were using a different transmission than the C223 came with?)

I was under the impression that the C223 was set up for the earlier chassis with a more forward-mounted corssmember - would that change things? This is justs what I've heard, so if I'm wrong, let me know ...

I haven't checked the transmission mounts out yet because my crossmember is still attached to the old transmission until I can get a torch to cut off the broken mount bolt. I will look into your suggestion. I'd prefer not to modify the driveshafts and such, but if I can get away with moving the whole assembly back that might be the ticket. I've noticed that if I keep the transmission in the stock location, and make new mounts for the engine, I'll need to use an electric radiator fan as the stock fan will hit the radiator. Your method would solve this problem and allow the stock fan to be used.

Also wondering about how the shifters would line up if I moved the transmission back.

The 4JB1-T has got the clutch slave on the driver's side of the bellhousing (and the oil filter is on the passenger side, by the way), so I think it will be fairly easy to run a new hardline to it - isn't the V6 clutch slave on the driver's side too? Maybe I could use a V6 hardline etc.?

I'd like to hear your thoughts. Thanks.

OH MAN you got it whipped on the clutch then, use the trans with the hydraulic clutch, reason i had to use the cable clutch was the c223 clutch control is on the drivers side , but no way to mount he slave cyl it gets in the way of the exhaust down pipe on the eng , not very much room on this swap so i just made the cable work , we never had dsl in this country with hyd, clutches , or with the mua trans , the shifter handles both of them still came up thru the holes in the floor pan just fine did not have to trim anything but it was close , i think what i would do on your truck is set the eng down on the flat style cushions , used on the 4 cyl or the 2.8 they are exactly the same specs except for the hardness of the rubber, i have used 2.6 cushions on the 2.8 a no of times, the 2.3 cushions are the same bolt on specs but the thicknes of the cushion is about 3/8 inch less so it would lower the eng a bit , with the eng sitting on the frt mts line up the rear trans mt, there are 2-3 diff mounts for the mua that could be used that will bolt to the trans and they have offset studs, on one of them it is centered with the mounting bolts to the trans , the automatic trans rear cushion has the same trans bolt spacing but also has 2 diff sets of holes allready punched in the mtng flange, the 4j series eng may come closer than the c223 to fitting , i don,t remember seeing any info on the 4j engs ever being in the 1st series troopers , as that eng was never available in the u.s.however i do believe they were available in the some other countries as early as 88-89 when they changed the design of the pickup , which had basically the same chassis as the 90-91 trooper and the early rodeo, i think you may find after you get the crossmember out and repaired and ready to go back in that the rear mount will come very close to fitting, if it doesn,t fit, but i would try and stay with the eng driven fan , as you know when the dsl starts to work hard they like to run hot, thats when they start showing their muscle , with the 3 row rad i would install louvers in the hood or a hood scoop, just to let the under hood air out , it makes a huge diff, and if anyone is interested the newer jeep wagooneers have a pretty neat looking vent or louver on their hoods one on either side , not sure exactely which year but it was deffinately a v8 model , and i am sure they didn,t just put them on for looks those vents could easily drop the temp 20=30degrees just getting rid of the under hood heat keep us posted Jerry