Hi Adrian

There isn`t enough info around on BOSCH VE pumps, but according in my knowdleges and what we have in this link, N? 2 is the cut off (magnet valve).

Well...i see you just find it. So.... <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" /> for you.
Great job Acy!!!


OK...Im a newbie here, so let me say hello to all. Im Daniel from Chile.

cheers... <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

First off, welcome to the board, Daniel!

Adrian, with my gas-to-diesel conversion, I left the TBI 4.3 gasser's fuel pump in the tank, hooked up of course (or I wouldn't get much fuel through it), and mine works just fine. After 2 1/2 years this way and over 50,000kms, I'm sure the pressure would have caused a leak by now if it were going to. Diesel is obviuosly more viscous than gas, so the output pressure ends up being less than gas would be.

BTW, the pump also is a VE.

Well, the injection pump housing pressure runs well over 100 psi normally so I don't think your electric pump could have caused a leak there. Try wiping the pump real dry and then have someone start the engine while you watch for the leak. Might be able to spot it this way.

Paul

First, thanks for all the advice. I still haven't found the fuel leak, but I haven't really been looking for it, either. It does seem unlikely that the electric pump could have done any damage to the pump. The supply line was bent when I received the engine, so I am thinking that it's got a crack in it or something. Seems the most likely at this point. Think the filter is still ok after the pressurization?

Good to see Dani here, he has also converted an Isuzu from gas to diesel - a pickup truck, if I'm not mistaken. A good resource to have around.

I've got a few more photos and such up on the blog site. I just finished the throttle cable - details are all there.

Thanks for the continued support.

I had a question I wanted to ask about the Isuzu 4JB1T. Does the engine have a cast iron cylinder head like the C223/C223T? Thanks.

Yes, the head is iron.

Not much movement lately on the project -- lots to do at work, holidays, etc. Hope to get back to it in the next week or so.

I did acquire a stock 1986 diesel Trooper airbox which should work perfectly with the 4JB1-T intake tube, just needs a little trimming. I'll post photos when it's installed.

Hi ACY 76,
I have just found this site, and am delighted to find a few similar enthusiasts for the Isuzu 2.8 diesel engine. I am in Ireland, and I have 3 x 2.8 turbo Troopers [4JB1], and an NHR 2.5 truck [4JA1 engine]. I would also have a good supplier of new {costly!} and good used parts {still not cheap!}.
I would have a lot of parts that I will never use, and would be delighted to see them go into a good vehicle, so, if there is anything you are having trouble locating, feel free to ask.
The 4JB1 engine is fantastic -but if you are looking for reliability, economy and ability to take abuse, there is nothing that can beat the 4JA1 [normally aspirated].Ok - it doesnt have the power of the turbo, but who cares when you get [so far] 250,000 miles @ 42mpg! The turbo has so much power that it wears the clutch if it is given too much throttle.
I read somewhere here that someone had a clutch problem due to build up of dust between the disc and flywheel.A sure sign of this problem is that the clutch pedal "catches" higher than before. Having pulled two transmissions to find that this was the problem, I decided to cut out a section of the bell housing and put in a cover plate. Now , every 6 months I remove the plate. insert an industrial vacuum cleaner, raise the back wheels, start the engine and operate the clutch a few times. It is amazing how much dust comes out, even with my conservative driving.
Finally - a tip for anyone doing their own transmission removal.It is always difficult to separate the bell housing from the engine. A great aid is to bolt[ 1 bolt is enough] a hand operated winch to the rear differential, bolt a suitable eye to the transfer case, connect and put some tension on the winch and gently shock the transmission while winding the winch. The transmission will move in a very controlled way. Do NOT use an electric winch, as you will have no control over tension.
I am very impressed with the lengths you have gone to, to do this conversion, and wish you luck.
Chris

rivercatt8 -- thanks for the kind words. I may take you up on that offer of parts. Right now, I am most in need of a factory Isuzu hood scoop and associated gaskets to match my intercooler.

The Trooper moved under its own power this afternoon. I finished the clutch hydraulics, which included a rebuild of the master cylinder (once I got under the dash I noticed it was leaking, so out it came), bled the system and finished the throttle cable install (needed to set the pedal stop bolt correctly, which meant I needed a torch to heat it up first as it was very stuck with rust).
I ended up with a clutch that feels stock. I started it up and could run through the gears without any grinds with the pedal depressed. I also drove about 5 ft. forward and back just to say I drove the truck!

Now, on to a question: the fuel system doesn't seem to be priming correctly -- I've got a clear filter inline just before the main filter and it's empty after idling for a couple of minutes, indicating to me that fuel is not being drawn from the tank. There is no mention of any fuel pump other than the injection pump used with this engine, so I am wondering how I should go about getting fuel into the lines. I think I'm just running on what's in the filter right now.

I'd rather not use any electric pumps for the sake of simplicity, but I don't know if it will be able to draw fuel from the tank. I'm using the stock fuel lines, with rubber hose running from the outlet at the firewall, up and over the engine, and then to the pump. Is this too much line? Should I just run it longer to get it to prime?

Any ideas welcomed.

acy76--

I don't know why your filter bowl is empty. But, I like to prime my filter and pump (when required) by vacuuming fuel through it and the filter.

To do this I have made up a quart bottle lid (the kind with a plastic seal inside) with two copper tubes soldered into it. I also found it useful to reinforce the lid with an aluminum plate glued to the top. Then install the lid on a quart bottle and connect one of the copper lines to the injection pump fuel return outlet and connect the other copper tube to your vacuum pump. I like plastic tubing for this for the visibility. Now you should be able to vacuum fuel through the filter and through the injection pump and on into the quart bottle. And, of course you should see the fuel flowing through your filter.

Hope this is not too complicated and will help.

Paul

Hi ,
On all my Troopers there is either a combined or single unit fuel filter / hand priming pump. On one , the pump has a water drain and it is located just before [and slightly below] the filter. In all cases the filter is the highest part of the system [downhill to injector pump and fuel tank]. I do not like the sound of routing the fuel line "up and over the engine" - definitely a possible source of airlocks.I think you could install any hand priming pump and re-route the fuel line and that should solve the problem.Can send a photo if you have problems.
Great to hear you are mobile - even if its only 5 feet!
Cant help with a scoop, as I have never seen one, and the last thing I want is more power!! The clutch is definitely the weak point of these very powerful engines, and pulling a 3 ton trailer up a steep hill can do severe damage if you are heavy on the throttle
Good luck.