Chris, could one buy a used 4JB1T diesel engine with 4WD 5-speed trans from you since you live in Ireland? I'd imagine the engines are more common over there and you can gain access to one that is out of a vehicle and still runs. I am looking into the possibility of getting a 4JB1T engine with trans/transfer case in the future if the price is a good deal. Thanks for your info.

Salvy

Paul --

That is a good idea, one I think I may try this weekend (of course, that means I have to put the alternator belt on, which means I'll find out for certain whether I wired it correctly or not...)

Rivercatt --

I did install a factory Isuzu primer pump assembly, however it is not at the highest point in the fuel system. Since making it so would require lots of new line to be run, I think I'll try the vacuum trick first. A good point nonetheless. Also, I think my primer pump isn't working - I get bubbles in the prefilter (inline, before the main fuel filter @ the hand pump) when pressing on it, which seems wrong to me. I did find another used pump but haven't installed it yet. And yes, I followed the stamped flow directional arrows when I hooked it up!

Thanks for the advice, all.

acy76--

My prior post on this is for a method I use if there is no primer pump or the pump doesn't work. Seems like yours is not working.

I also have a repair method for the Isuzu filter head/primer pump which is residing in the archives at:

http://www.4x4wire.com/forums/showf...&sb=5&o=&fpart=1

So, maybe you can repair your primer pump and forget the vacuum bottle deal.

Paul

Hi Salvy,
Sorry for late reply - i dont get online every day.
I actually have a 4JB1 turbo engine with manual 5speed transmission and transfer case at the moment.it has 218,000 miles on the clock [assuming it is the original engine].I drove the vehicle for 2000 miles before taking it off the road, and the engine seemed fine .I have examined the clutch and it has an almost new disc, with a slightly grooved pressure plate.The flywheel is very smooth. The gearbox and transfer case are in very good condition. If you are interested in this or any other 2.8 isuzu engines, you can drop me a line.They stopped selling them here in 1992, so every engine will have done over 150,000 miles, but I have yet to hear of a well - maintained engine that has worn out!

Man, just noticed this thread has almost 5000 views! Glad it's of interest to someone ...

Not much new lately. No time to work on the Trooper. This weekend looks good for completion of the air intake system (had to slightly modify the 86 Troop diesel airbox), hopefully the wiring and maybe even the cooling system. I'd also like to get the fuel system primed (using Paul223's suggestion with the vacuum pump and a glass jar, brilliant) and see about the belts and power steering hoses. Which leads me to a question:

Does anyone know whether C223 power steering hoses might fit the 4JB1-T pump? It looks like it's in the same location on both engines. Actually, just the pressure line, the return looks like a standard piece of rubber hose, which I'll match to some silicone heater hose or similar. I think I'll try the C223 belts, too ... would be cool if it all swapped over.

Added a new post to the blog site, just a short detail of the clutch hydraulic line installation. I've been fighting for some free time to get this thing completed, but it's been tough lately! So close, though...

Jerry Lemond has been helping me with some power steering hardware, so I should have steering assist and filtered air for the engine very soon.

Still lots to do, but it's getting closer.

Anyone have any idea why the glow controller would kick off instantly after coming on? The glow lamp stays lit for the duration, but I can hear the relay turn on and off as soon as power is applied. I have also measured voltage at a plug and found it to come on and then shut off. It's the C223 controller unit - maybe the 4JB1-T plugs are of a different resistance or something? It's all hooked up as stock except for the water temp sensor, which I have not yet connected.

acy76--

The early termination of the glow interval (with the glow lamp staying on) happens in my C223 p/u when one or more glow plugs are open. I suppose the 4JB1 plugs could be enough higher in resistance to cause this but it doesn't seem likely.

I don't think the disconnected temp sensor will affect this as the controller sees the disconnected sensor as a cold engine, so glowing should happen.

I suggest removing the glow bus and checking each plug for normal resistance of about 0.2 ohm.

I assume that you have the short busbar resistor in the glow current feed. This resistor senses the current and reports back to the controller. When the glow current falls below a set value of about 70 amps the glow interval is terminated. This why having a plug out immediately terminates the glow interval.

Hope this helps--

Paul

HEY ADRAIN , I RAN INTO ONE WITH THE EXACT SAME CLICK ON CLICK OFF THIS PAST WEEK, NEW GLOW PLUGS DIFF CONT, THE WHOLE BIT , THE OWNER WAS ABOUT TO GO NUTS OVER THIS THING , WELL WHAT IT TURNED OUT TO BE AFTER HE DROVE 60 MILES DOWN HERE I CHECK THE BATT VOLTAGE TO THE GLOW PLUG RELAYS , THE NO I RELAY WHICH IS TURNED ON AND OFF BY THE CONTROLLER HAD NO VOLTAGE ON THE MAIN SUPPLY LEAD FROM THE BATT FUSE LINK WHICH IS JUST A SHORT CONNECTION OVER TO THE NO 2 RELAY , NO 2 WORKED FINE , THIS PIECE OF WIRE WITH THE 2 RELAY CONNECTORS IS ONLY ABOUT 8-9 INC LONG, BUT THE MAIN LEAD FROM THE FUSE LINK IS SPLICED INTO THE WIRE ABOUT 4 INCH FROM THE END WITH A CRIMP SO IT WAS MAKING CONNECTION TO RELAY NO 2 , BUT NOT ENOUGH CURRENT COULD MAKE IT THRU THE CONN CRIMP, TO RELAY NO 1 FOR THE RELAY TO FEED THE GLOW PLUGS AND THE CONTROLLER SENSED AN OPEN CIRCUIT AND WOULD SHUT IT DOWN, A SHORT PIECE OF WIRE FROM THE 86 T DSL PARTS CAR AND IT WAS BACK AND WORKING FINE AGAIN, AND HE HAS HAD SOME 30 DEGREE MORN, FOR THE LAST COUPLE OF DAYS , CHECK THE FEED VOLTAGE ON BOTH THE RELAYS RIGHT AT THE RELAY IT IS ABOUT A 10 GAUGE WIRE AND IS SOLID BLACK JERRY

Jerry--

I think you are on to it. Sometimes I get too scientific.

Paul

HEY PAUL , YOU ARE NOT TOO SI FI, YOUR ARE DEAD ON, ON THE EXPLANTION, THAT IS HOW THEY WORK, WITH THE SENSING RESISTOR, FOR THESE SYST, NOT TOO HAVE ANY MORE PARTS THAN THEY DO AND REALLY WORK FAIRLY SIMPLE THEY CAN SURE DRIVE YOU NUTS SOMETIMES , BECAUSE THEY SEEM SO SIMPLE AT TIMES I TEND TO THINK WE SEE MORE INTO THEM THAN WE SHOULD ,I CATCH MYSELF DOING THIS AND THEN JUST STEP BACK DO A VERY UNSCIENTIFIC THING GO BACK TO BASICS , THESE THINGS CAN SURE MAKE YTOU SCRATCH YOUR HEAD SOMETIME JERRY