acy76--

I think that a lift pump pressure of 6 psi will be OK. The injection pump housing pressure is internally regulated at pressures ranging from about 25psi to about 100psi, depending on engine speed.

But, I wonder if you really need a lift pump? With your filter 'starting to empty' I think you may have a leak in your fuel line or filter head letting air into the system.

If you do install a lift pump, I suggest that you place it as close to the tank as possible. This will allow the pump discharge pressure to add to atmospheric pressure, making a more positive fuel delivery to the engine compartment. At the same time it eliminates any negative pressure on the inlet line which will discourage any air leaks into the line.

Of course, if you do have air leaks it is best to find and fix them.

Paul

Thanks for the advice, Paul. I don't think air leaks are causing the slow filling of the prefilter as I've been running the engine from a red fuel can with short lines. I think either the prefilter is too clogged to work properly, causing a poor fuel draw, or the position of the tank above the inj. pump is hindering fuel draw. I need to replace the prefilter, I just haven't had the chance to do it yet - forgot to grab one when I replaced the main filter, and it has not been convenient to go to the parts store lately.

The reason I may install a lift pump is to aid in dealing with the thicker biodiesel fuel. I agree with your advice regarding pump placement, but I feel that it is worth sacrificing a bit of line pressure to locate the unit under the hood, where it is easier to maintain and protected from road debris and the elements (Minnesota road salt would, I think, quickly kill it).

On another subject, does anyone know how the diesel tachometer is wired? Right now, I have a C223 tach in the dash, connected to the factory wiring for the gas engine. I've tried connecting the tach wire to both of the terminals coming from a plug on the side of the inj. pump (which my information indicates should be the tach sender) but there's no action at the gauge.

I have not checked the wiring yet to see if there's an open or whether the gauge has power and ground. Assuming these things check out, what am I missing? Is the tach signal likely to be different between the C223 and 4JB1 engines, rendering my tach useless? Do I need to supply voltage to the tach sender to make it produce a signal (hence the 2 wires coming from it)?

Thanks guys.

I've just run the engine up to operating temp for the first time tonight, after getting the oil pressure and temp gauges connected.

Once up to full temp, the oil pressure gauge is basically at zero. The oil light is not coming on, and I have that connected now, so I would think that if there were no pressure I'd get an oil light.

Could this be a wiring or sender issue? It works ok when the engine is cold (or it did - haven't tried it yet after it was reading low).

I wired it without the condenser mentioned in the wiring diagram for the gas engine - could this cause low readings?

Way to go man. Got the engine fired up. I hope it is a good feeling. You can always stick a mechanical pressure gauge in temporarily just to be sure it has pressure. After all the work you have done that lack of oil pressure reading must give you the jitters. I know that sort of thing shakes my world. I started my C223T last night and it over-revved again, even with the key off and steel plate over the air inlet. When I got it shut down, I looked around my shop, rubbed my brow, turned off the tunes, lights and went in the house to watch movies. My wife asked, "Are you mad at me?" I said, "No honey, I'm just a little rattled by the sound of my engine."
I will have another go at it today.
It sure looks pretty in the shop, but I want to drive it now. This doesn't look like it is going to happen very soon.
I mean I hope that was piston slap I was hearing. I wonder how hard these engines are to rebuild? Just thinking out loud. Hope all is good with your conversion.
Brian Rodgers

Yeah, it did feel good to have it running. The cooling system seems to be working prefectly, it charges the battery and I can drive it around. Once the fuel system is back together I will be in business - right now it is still running out of a red fuel can.

I bought a gallon of biodiesel at a local station and ran it today. The exhaust smells like eggrolls. Funky.

Good luck with the 86, keep us posted.

I am soooo envious. I have all the biodiesel I can use and more. Now I need to get the Trooper running. We also have a 1981 Peugeot turbo diesel which we got to make sure the 100% homebrew biodiesel works good enough to run it in a better engine. I am right at the 400 gallon mark for biodiesel production and it seems to work perfectly, with no downside. Yeah it smells kind of weird, but I think it smells better than dino-diesel. Plus, it costs us almost nothing as my buddy who owns a Mercedes Turbo Diesel has been paying for all the chemicals. Can't beat that. When Winter hits us here in New Mexico we will have to blend the biodiesel with petrol diesel to keep the gel point down. The Trooper has a nice block heater for starting on cold mornings. I don't know yet how the Peugeeot will do in Winter. Most of the people on the peugeot-l yahoo group with these old diesels park them for Winter. Making biodiesel in the Winter is also problematic so I don't really know how it will pan out until Winter hits.
What ever happened with the algae you had growing in your fuel system? I have heard that people have had weird crap grow in large tanks of Biodiesel, but I don't know what they did about it.
Brian Rodgers

Homebrew fuel is going to come later for me, but I do plan on it at some point. After the truck is running, I plan on adding an underhood SVO system (custom-built by yours truly, of course) if I can find room for 3-5 gallons. I think I can, as I've been keeping the passenger fender clear for just this purpose.

The algae I thought I had was most likely particulates from old gas that had been sitting in the tank. My solution just arrived in the mail yesterday: a new Isuzu tank. Same price as a professional cleaning for the old tank (or less... they were vague). I need to run some new fuel lines down the driver's side frame rail and I am in business.

I think I have also finally found a source for my factory hood scoop, so stay tuned...

On another note, those interested in diesel conversions may want to see this post from another forum. The bellhousing adapter he used my open up some interesting possibilities for people in terms of conversion engine candidates. The industrial Isuzu engines may work using the same method, for instance.

Heck yeah, that guy at biodiesel.infopop.cc is doing a really nice job on his Jeep. Brand new Cummins! More envy on my part, sigh.
I am wondering, since there seems to be a shortage of diesel powered small trucks and cars whether there might be some money to be made doing conversions? Only problem I see is the time it takes. There is a guy near me here in New Mexico who does Land Rovers. He does everything, I mean he takes them down to the frame, sandblasts all the parts, rebuilds them completely and resells them for big bucks. http://www.landroverranch.com/ Check it out, lots of pictures. At one time he was the only biodiesel man here, now there is me too. From what I can see on his web site he does mostly stock rebuilds of gas engined vehicles.
Brian Rodgers

Exciting news (at least for me, anyway): after quite a bit of searching, I've finally found an Australian supplier who will ship me a hood scoop complete with all mounting hardware, gaskets and even the mounting ring cut free from the hood. I've spoken with them on the phone and paid for the order tonight, so it ought to be the real thing. Should be here in less than 2 weeks, so photos will be coming then. In the meantime, see what one is supposed to look like in this photo:


I think it will look pretty cool.