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Diff Drop
#594242
04/19/05 04:22 AM
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Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 92
OP
Getting the Wheeling Fever
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I have been reading some of the past posts on dropping the front differential in order to correct some of the steep cv angle... What I came up with was well its not done very often on 2nd gen rodeos, is there a reason for this or has nobody gained the interest to tackle this job?
I was under the ZU today and it looked like to me that the only thing stopping me front lowering the diff was the rear bolt on each of the LCAs which can be easily fixed by notching and strengthening the diff mounting brackets. Also in the way was the crossmember which could be dropped with just a simple bracket... Any ideas on this would be appreciated, Thanks
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Re: Diff Drop
[Re: bnold]
#594243
04/19/05 08:58 AM
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Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 1,994
Body Damage is Cool
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Main reason folks haven't done this.......ok the reason I haven't done this <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> It's not needed on the 2nd gens.
2nd Gens have flatter cv angles when they are cranked up 6"+ then most 1st gens have with only 1 1/2" cranked into them.(not counting 95.5-97 Rodeo's)Pre 95.5 Isuzu's benefit from this diff lower the most.
If you lower the front diff on your 98 more than 3/16" it will not allow a nice snug skid plate and 1/2" lower will actually hang down lower than the front stock crossmeber.
You can't have "steep" cv angles on your 98 Rodeo....and this is a good thing. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />
(Disclaimer) This is my .02 <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/pfft.gif" alt="" />
Bansil
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Re: Diff Drop
[Re: Bansil]
#594244
04/19/05 11:21 AM
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Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 434
Mudrunner
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you statement confused me bansil.
Are you saying that the 2nd gens can be cranked more or less. seems like your statement said both. just wanted to clarify. thanks
2002 Honda Passport. 3 inch Indy4x lift with 912 OME's. 265 75 BFG m/t's with a 3 inch body lift, safari rack, tube sliders, tube rear bumper, on-board air
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Re: Diff Drop
[Re: anubis]
#594245
04/19/05 01:10 PM
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Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 4,016
Isuzu Moderator
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Are you saying that the 2nd gens can be cranked more or less. More.
Sean Strawmyer Back and ready to rock...... crawl. From Indiana or surrounding states and interested in wheelin'? Check out www.mwior.com
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Re: Diff Drop
[Re: strawmyers]
#594246
04/19/05 01:19 PM
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Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 92
OP
Getting the Wheeling Fever
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They sure look pretty stressed to me.. Not to doubt u, but the shaft almost looks like it is just resting on the bottom of the cup (inner CV). Just got done replacing the shafts because my last well they didn't even hardly resemble what they were supposed to look like. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/scared.gif" alt="" /> The boots; bout gone, the ball bearings fell out when I began to lower the differential, just started rolling all over the place; first reaction "That just can not be good"....
Also my CV angle is most extreme when I need them the most... My boat ramp is pretty slick and my boat is pretty heavy!! Result "Need more traction captain!! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" />" Last time I tried to pull my boat out my front end hopped like I had a sick hydralic system.
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Re: Diff Drop
[Re: bnold]
#594247
04/19/05 03:29 PM
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Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 1,074
Body Damage is Cool
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I'll get a picture up on here soon, but with my 1.5" diff drop and about 2.5" of tbar crank, the angles looked about the same as Smiley's 97 rodeo with no diff drop and 3" of crank. So yes I would say they are not really needed.
As for more traction, slap an arb or a no slip in the rear. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />
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Re: Diff Drop
[Re: Rodeo Guy]
#594248
04/19/05 04:08 PM
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Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 92
OP
Getting the Wheeling Fever
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Well my traction wouldn't be an issue if my front end wasn't jumping around. I posted this hopping problem and they told me it was from too extreme angles on my CVs...
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Re: Diff Drop
[Re: bnold]
#594249
04/19/05 04:25 PM
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Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 1,994
Body Damage is Cool
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The hopping problem you have is more than likely due to the poor design of the rear suspension.
Our trucks have way to much anti-squat built into them from the factory.
I know this is a whole 'nother bag of worms but,here is a quick version:
Looking at the side of the 98+Rodeo/RS.
If you draw a line between the mounting points of the rear suspension links and extend them forward and backward..... you will notice that the lines from the upper and lower links converge behind the rear axle about 5'......this is not good for us.
As you give your truck gas the rear will actually move up as the front suspension extends at the same time thus you are theoretically pulling the truck off the ground.
At the point of the "bounce" you feel.It is actually the tires loosing traction and the suspension going back to "rest"(normal ht.)and the process starting all over again.
With alot of wt. on the back hitch, and good traction you are probably pulling the front wheels off the ground to the point they loose traction which causes it to hop.
Hope that makes since,and sorry no picks yet. Maybe someone can help post a pic......if they know what I'm talking about they know the pic.
Bansil
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Re: Diff Drop
[Re: Bansil]
#594250
04/19/05 04:36 PM
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Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 5,911
Trail Leader
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àwith my 1.5" diff drop and about 2.5" of tbar crank, the angles looked about the same as Smiley's 97 rodeo with no diff drop and 3" of crank. ^^^ ThatÆs the exact same observation that I made this weekendà The 1995.5 - 1997 gen 1.5s, and the 1998+ second gens all have longer A-arms than the earlier Rodeosà They also have equal length CV Shafts that are (I believe) somewhat longer than the longest of the two shafts on the earlier versions. --- This translates into reduced CV angles when the T-Bars are crankedà Particularly when compared to the shorter of the un-equal length shafts on the older modelsà mine are almost flat! If I were to install a set of Drop Dif Brackets on mine, I would probably have to dial-in a little more lift in order to raise the CV anglesà With a 1.5-inch difference over what I have right now, IÆm almost certain that they would be angled just a little bit upward. Based on what Doug (Bansil) said about their 1998, it sounds like the same basic circumstances apply to yours. ( I think IÆm gonna pass on the whole Anti-Squat thing, and just stick to the Drop Dif part of the conversation) If you do decide to install a set of Drop Dif Brackets - over and above the modifications that you mentioned above - in all likelihood, you will probably have to crank your T-Bars a bit more than they are right now. --- YouÆll gain some lift, but loose an equal amount of down-travel in the process. --- Of course, as a result, you might also be getting yourself into æover-extended rack and pinionÆ territory. IÆm really not sure about that one, but itÆs something to consider. HTH Cheers! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" /> Smiley
Six Isuzus, so far... still have three of them.
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Re: Diff Drop
[Re: Smiley]
#594251
04/19/05 06:41 PM
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Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 1,074
Body Damage is Cool
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Hey Bnold, correct me if I'm wrong, but you are trying to pull your boat up the slippery ramp, all 4 wheels start to slip, and the front end starts bouncing around which eliminates what traction you have, right?
My theory is that with both rear (or front) wheels powering, you won't slip any tires, thus the front end will not bounce.
And Smiley, sorry to nit-pick, just want everyone to have the right info here. The new longer arm suspension came around in 96. My 95.5 has the old short stuff, thus my steeper cv angles. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" />
HTH
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