Top half / bottom half?
Few lines out? Grouped together or separate?
Halfway meaning it does a half-effort job (removes a little moisture, but not a lot?)

What changes have you had since it worked? If you had it tinted years ago and the problem occured recently, it's probably not the tinter cutting a trace. If you just had it tinted, it probably is.

Some other things to check: Did you load something and bump the window? Scratches on the resistor cause a break. (This is where tinting can help you!) Please give some more detail.

Tinting generally isn't a problem--the people who have problems post, those who don't (me) don't put up "My glass didn't break today" posts.

When I tinted my sunroof, I was warned sunroofs shatter more, and they don't have defroster. I expect that's due to more sun exposure; the inside of the car is not and dark tint on the inside absorbs the sun's heat, making one side super-hot and the other exposed to the relatively cooler outside air. I went with the lightest color, metallic-tint to block UV and reflect heat.

Why is this a problem: Think ice cubes.
When you dump them in a drink, the outside surface is warming up fast and expanding (Ice can obviously be colder than 0 degC and I'm referring to the solid expanding). The inside is the same temperature and is not expanding. This change in size causes ice to crack and pop.

When tint is on a window, it contains the heat from the elements more, like a blanket on a body. The other side of the window (outside) is presumable colder. Glass expands on one side from the heat, stays the same on the other, and it shatters from the stress.

If you are really worried, cycle your defrost on and off for the first few minutes.

FWIW, I still don't understand why cutting parallel resistors (heating elements) would reduce overall resistance. I need to model that in OrCad.

Probably more than you want. I was Smiley-sized.