I am almost certain that the injectors are not firing. I pulled the plug off of the #1 injector and put the voltmeter on it. Tried cranking the motor and did not get any reading...I'd assume that would mean there is no power getting to the injectors to pulse. Darin, I think you are right on about everything. I was lead into some false hope when the engine started to idle on its own for a little bit but now I also think that it was the CSI keeping it alive. My questions are now: Would the problem lie with the solenoid resistor (heat sink looking thing) or in the actual wiring? Are there any writeups on rebuilding the wiring harness for the injectors?

You could make sure power is getting to the resistor. And you could check for continuity from the resistor to the individual injectors, one wire feeds 1/2 and the other wire feeds 3/4. If that is OK, then the other wire for each injector runs back to the ECU. see if there is continuity from the injector to the ECU:

The solenoid resistor is getting power from the battery. When I checked the resistance from +B to the No. 10 and then the No. 20 terminal, I got readings of 3.4 and 3.5 ohms respectively. My Haynes manual says this reading should be between 2 and 3. Would a half of ohm make the difference of my injectors firing or not. How exact do the tolerances need to be?

Two options:

#1 it is not enough of an increase to make much difference in current in the injector, since you are looking at that plus the pair of 2-3 ohm injector coils in parallel (additional 1.5 ohms) and whatever the driving impedence of the ECU is, you might see 2.6 amps in the pair of injectors (1.3/injector) with 3.0 ohm resistor and 2.4 amps (1.2/injector) with 3.5 ohms. Guess it would depend on where the injector resistances fall, they are spec'd at 1.5-3.0 ohms. Now if the injectors test out over 3 ohms, then that may start limiting current flow. I have no idea what their min and max rated currents are.

#2 you determine the part is out of spec and replace it.

UPDATE: Here is some data that I collected that makes my theories on faulty wiring a little sketchy:

Injector resistance: All 4 ranged between 2.7 and 2.8 ohms. This is towards the limits of the specs (1.5-3.0) but good nonetheless.

Injector power feed: The yellow wire off of the solenoid resistor was continuous to the #1 and #3 injectors (isn't this supposed to be to 1 and 2?). The blue wire (although the splice looked a litte corroded) was continuous and led to the #2 and #4 injectors. Assuming that the solenoid resistor is good, this would mean that the injectors are receieving proper power.

Injector ground to ECU: The white and white/red strip wires both led from the No. 10 and No. 20 pinout on the ECU to a splice where both were put together w/ a butt connector to the 4 injector wires. Checked for continuity between the ECU connector and where the wires were spliced together and it was good (<1.0 ohm). Checking between the injector plugs there was a large variation in resistance. Between the #1 and #2 grounds, resistance was around 3 ohms. Between #2 and #3, resistance jumped to 50 ohms. Between #3 and #4 resistance was about 60 ohms. I am not sure if this should make a difference.

Engine Ground: Checked brown wires from ECU to engine ground point (stud on intake/plenum seam towards firewall) and they were continuous with resistances < 1 ohm.

Does all of this information seem like what I should be getting for a functioning injector system? If that is the case, where should my focus shift?

Its at the butt connector. Your resistance should all be equal due to the 4 into 1 into 2 setup of the white and white/red wires to the ECU. Blue feeds 2/4 while yella feeds 1/3.

Sent ya some info in a pm... should be able to get it going after some reading. Too bad you arent closer...or I would haul over the harness carcasses I have and help ya out. Washington to AZ is a bit of a drive though! LOL

~Darin <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/baby.gif" alt="" />

I'll meet you half way. Here there are some ok places to wheel out in California <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/nana.gif" alt="" />.

Seriously, I just want to thank you for all of your help thus far. Everyone's input has really helped me to make it through this project. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

I'll pull apart the 4 into 1 into 2 tomorrow and rewire it up nice and neat. Hopefully it solves some/all of the problem.

Here is a diagram of the injector wiring that I made in paint showing how I have my vehicle wired right now. Hopefully this will help others out in the future. Cut all of the oxidized butt connectors out and redid all of the splices by soldering each of them. The resistance between all of the grounds is now less than an ohm. Hopefully this will solve my problem.

Was it messy under the wiring harness tape?? I like the diagram- not over complicated and shows all necessary detail.

Sooo, get out there and see if this solved your problem or not. Fire that bad boy up! Im getting kinda anxious here!!

~Darin <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/baby.gif" alt="" />

UPDATE: Got the wiring harness put back together. Checked all of the wires....they are good to go. However, when I try to jump my fuel pump from the diagnostic ports, it no longer makes a sound. Could it be that a relay or fuse that has been blown?
I now know the wires to my injectors are good. The ground cable that is on the intake plenum/intake is good. The grounds to the E01 and E02 connectors are good. The power coming from the solenoid resistor is good. What am I missing to get this thing working? ARRRGGGHH!!!

Darin- it was a little messy under the tape but not too bad. Fixing the spliecs was pretty easy and I got the harness looking all pretty again.