I just recently rebuilt my 22RE. I am trying to get it started but it doesn't seem like fuel is entering the cylinders. I have cranked it over for several seconds and do not smell any fuel in the chambers nor is the end of the spark plug even slightly damp. I have checked the spark and that is not an issue. How would I go about checking my fuel system to make sure that fuel is getting in there? Any information would be greatly appreciated.

Spray a shot of starting fluid in the plenum ( pull a hose off the side, give a quick squirt reattach hose) then fire it up. If the engine starts and dies shortly there after then your injectors arent responding to the ECU "fire" signal. If thats the case you can double check the circuit by rigging a 12v light to hook up to the injector plugs. Then turn the engine over and look for the test light to start flashing. If no light when ignition is on, then your power supply isnt reaching the injectors. Constant light is good, means power is getting there (they are hot with ignition on and are triggered by the ecu switching them to ground btw). Trigger wires are the white and white/red running between injectors and pins 10 and 20 of the ECU.

Double check all grounds especially the one that is at the intake plenum/manifold junction. IF all ground are good, pull apart the harness for the injector leads and redo the butt connector that ties all 4 injectors together. Common failure point on all 22R-Es. Its located approximately 12" up from where the #1 injector wires break out of the main harness. Cut/clean the wires and resolder them...slip shrink tube on prior to soldering of course to protect the repair when done.

~Darin <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/baby.gif" alt="" />

Try the Fuel Pump Test jumper, if your fuel pump is able to run, this will make sure it is running.

Tried the starting fluid and got combustion in my intake plenum (had smoke coming out the air filter). I'm a little confused.

could this injector lead problem in the harness cause one injector to act up? I have an injector problem also that coincidently started after changing engines. I know the injectors are fine, but ever since I put the new engine in I need to crank it over 8-10 times before it fires. When it starts you can tell that it's running on three cylinders for the first 5-10 seconds then evens out. What's throwing me is that there is a srtong fuel odor also that fades away so I'm not sure if it's passing fuel or not to the affected cylinder. But would a short in the harness or even a loose/forgotten ground even up and smooth out after running for a few seconds? I'm gonna have to check that out, I didn't realize that the toys had a notorious spot in that harness I'm'n'a have to check that out as much as it got shuffled around during the swap

I jumped the fuel pump and I can hear it and the fuel pressure regulator when the ignition is turned to the on position. Would this mean that it would have something to do with the injector wiring then? Thank you for the info thus far.

SIGNS OF LIFE! Well....sort of. I am getting fuel pressure in the fuel rail which is a good thing. Using starting fluid I got it to fire a few times. Playing with the distributor a rough idle was achieved however the distributor was moved so far that the bolt would not go in. Tried moving a tooth on the distributor and then had no luck of it firing other than the occasional backfire. Could it be that the timing is off by a lot? I have tried playing with the distributor but have not had the same luck again. Any suggestions or ideas?

Put it back to TDC on the #1 cyl and make sure both your valves on the #1 cyl are in the fully closed position. your engine has two different positions that look like TDC. TDC when the exhaust closes and the intake begins and TDC when the compression stroke reaches TDC and fires the plug. It seems to be extremely common that poeple use the exhaust/intake TDC thinking its the compression stroke and naturally everything is off 180deg.

Another trick you can do is put a wrench on the crank and start cranking the engine around while holding your finger over the #1 spark plug hole. When you start into the compression stroke you will know it when air is being forced out past your finger. At that point look down at the timing mark on the pully and bring it up to the TDC mark. This will be the real TDC for cyl #1. Once you are here I think you will see that your dist. is not pointing to the #1 plug wire. Remove the dist and reset it to the proper position. There should be a write up on this somwhere? There must be a post like this atleast 2 times a week lately.

I set up the motor at TDC on the compression stroke (could feel air be forced out of the spark plug hole). Put the distributor in with the rotor over the #1 wire. Tried to start it and it sounded like it would start and then died almost instantly. No luck. Should I try advancing the distributor a tooth foward or back? What else should I check?

One last thing not yet mentioned....but is the airtube connected between the throttle body and AirFlow Meter?

If it will run on starting fluid but not even start without then I'd go back to square one and verify injector pulse at the injector plugs.

The one time you were able to get it to rough idle, was there any chance of starting fluid being in there from prior attempts? Also, could be that your cold start injector was spraying enough to give it some life but not enough to sustain it.

Fuel to the rail with pressure, but dry spark plugs would scream injectors not opening to me. Guess that is because I have been in your predicament before with my 4Runner. Fresh engine that would fire on starting fluid but not on its own.

~Darin <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/baby.gif" alt="" />