Might be worthile having someone else give it a good looking over. I had a similar situation after I installed cam and other upgraded parts and was having trouble with the engine running right (timing was not a problem). Went over everything a couple of times, no problems found. Then a buddy came by and casually remarked that I was missing a bolt on the EGR valve. Sure enough, it must have loosened up and backed out with the vibration of the rough idle I had. I must have looked at it half a dozen times and each time said "No, can't be the EGR valve, it was working before I tore the engine apart". But just like the EFI fuse, check everything (AFM, TPS, cold start injector, cold-start switch, ignitor, etc.) and take the position of proving that a given part is good with the tests.

Tried moving the distributor ahead and back a few teeth and got nothing. You're right Roger, it has to be something little I am overlooking.

Did put in the diagnostic jumper and the chk engine light flashed 6 times....paused....flashed 6 times....paused. Are the codes valid if the engine has not been run yet?

Not to hijack the thread, but what size are the bolts on the EGR valve. One of mine got itself busted.

Bolt sizes for the EGR, are M8x125 and the lengths vary, should be a nut on stud for one of the three.

Code 6: for 87' is the igniter circuit. Double check connections from the ECU to igniter (3 wires going over valve cover). Also check the connection for the pickup coil going to the distributor. Went through this recently with a fella who had a 90's 22R-E...turned out his ECU-igniter wiring rested on the exhuast at some time and burned a wire.

~Darin <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/baby.gif" alt="" />

Thanks, it was one that wasnt a stud. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" />

I tested my supra afm and am getting an infinite reading between E2 and Vb. Went back and tested my old and got the same thing between E2 and Vb. All of the ohm readings came out fine for both. Are both AFMs bad? Tried starting the motor again with some starting fluid and it only runs for about 1-2 seconds. Would this point to it still being a fuel problem. I don't have any other AFMs lying around to test it out with unless one off a 4age motor works...

Which leads off of the afm control how much fuel gets shot into the cylinders?

You might have a look at the Techincal Articles section over at: http://autoshop101.com/

Lots of good info there on what sensor does what.

UPDATE: Well I went back through and cnecked everything. I reset the timing chain (I think it was off 1 tooth) set the distributor/ timing. Checked all relays and fuses. Tapped a fuel pressure gauge into my fuel line (getting 40psi with no vaccuum). Put everything back together and it started on its own!!! PROGRESS!!!

However, it runs very rough and will only run with the throttle fully open. It will not go above 500rpm. Hot wired the CSI and when it shoots in fuel the truck will idle normally and sounds much smoother. Would my assumption be correct if I said that one or more of the fuel injectors are not firing. I doubled checked the wiring and it is all good so I think I've narrowed it down to an actual fuel injector malfunction/blockage. They all test at 2.8ohms so they seem fine but is it possible for them to clog? I had them sent away to Cruzin Performace and they said they were good. Any ideas/suggestions. My friend has some 250cc injectors lying around that he said I could use to see if it is my problem. You all have been so very helpful. I wouldn't be as far as I am now without all of the comments, links, suggestions, ideas, and support. It's soooo close to being back on the road!