Hi,
I just broke my Front Right CV Half Shaft yesterday (Rodeo 98 - 3.2L - v6 - Auto).
The shop would like to charge me 400$ to replace it and it stated that the Isuzu one are hard to replace and very common to brake ???
I have checked the price on the web and in AutoZone and it's ~100$

How hard is it to replace it ?
Is it common to brake as the shop stated or he is building a case for the high cost ?

Thanks,

Replacing the axle is an involved process. Not 'hard' per se... but there is a lot to take apart and put back together when changing an entire front axle. It has actually been described in detail in Isuzu Tech a few times. Depending on their hourly rate, that is probably about right.

As for the breakage being common... I'd love to see their reasoning behind that statement. I have seen Isuzu front axels take a ridiculous amount of pounding with bigger tires and lower crawl ratios than stock, and have only ever been there for one breaking. I know plenty of people have broken them from reading the posts around here... but consider the situations they are being put in at the time <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/shiner.gif" alt="" />

It's broken near the right wheel where the rubber is or better to say was as the rubber is all apart but as it's a 90k Rig I understand it can happen

Any suggestion on DIY or a shop ?

Definitely do a search on the process. Depending on what happened, and how you want to proceed with the repair, you might be able to do it yourself without too much labor involved. Since you broke it by the wheel, I have seen people disassemble the cup by the diff and not have to take the diff apart.

Search in isuzu tech and you will find some info though

Very interesting... the auto tranny was not available until 99 in the Amigo, I didnt think it was available in the Rodeo until then either.

More interesting is that you broke one... how did that happen?

The shop is trying to bend you over. They are basically charging you 3 hours labor @ $100/Hr + parts @ $100.

I wouldnt think that a seasoned professional would take longer than 90 minutes to do it. When I swapped axles in my Amigo, we were able to get the CVs out in less than 3 hours a side, and we are amatuers.

It is a common replacement item, not excessively difficult.

I had no idea what a CV Shaft was when I first replaced the boots. Its basicly the same thing though.

Have you done any wrenchwork? If so, just take your time, print off the article, and get yourself a Haynes and/or Chiltons manual. Between those three resources and here, you can get it done.

Odd that it broke, I'd like to know what you were doing also. Was it clicking at all beforehand?

As some of you stated is broke need the wheel (inside the rubber boot) and it happen yesterday (4/30) in the Badlands (http://www.badlandsoffroad.com/) Off-Road Park when a "crashed" on a hidden rock inside the stream
I'll send pictures tomorrow (in day light) and hopefully will get some works of wisdom for the team

You really need to visit the link in my sig <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />

Not wishing to contradict you but my experiences prove otherwise. The right front axle assy is the achilles heel of the later model Isuzus. having broken the Rt axle once & the Rt CV joints three times, I can attest to their vulnerability when doing HARD Wheeling especially with a locker. Almost all failures occur on the passenger side, probably due to the differences between the two axle designs when approximate equal forces are applied. Did the Rubicon without a locker, never broke a CV or an Axle. Went back with a locker & broke the axle at the Gatekeeper.Needless to say I am now more careful when I use my locker.I think a green Rodeo broke a CV at The Crack (Moab)two years ago & if I am not mistaken Fernandos Amigo ( Moab) broke a CV last year and I did as well. Pretty darn common if you ask me that's why I carry both sides spares.

Not contradicting me at all... actually going along with my point. Under the stressful coniditions of off-roading (especially with a locker), the front axles are definitely a weak point. They can take some abuse (mine have), but if something breaks... it'll probably be a CV. BUT, most Isuzu owners will never go off-road. And the CV's should be plenty strong for what most people put them through (no lift, no locker, stock tires, stock gearing, no off-roading, etc)... that's why I find it odd that the mechanic would call them "very common to break."

Replaced mine last year, 2000 Amigo, a real PITA. Probably worth the $400 dollars if you can afford it.

I'm not a professional, but I've done it a few times and I've gotten the whole process down to about an hour. 3 hours is definately ridiculous for a shop to do it.

Most shops just make quotes based off of the time frame specified in the service manual... that doesn't mean it actually takes them that long to do it (especially if they have a lot of experience). Anyone have a service manual that can look at the estimated time?

I recently broke my driver's side CV axle during a trail ride. It broke with the front ARB engaged on a very difficult rock trail.

Anyway, I found a local axle shop that rebuilt it like new for $180 installed; they've been rebuilding axles for over 30 years.

Really, ya'll were able to jack up your vehicle, take the front wheel off, remove the right front caliper assembly, remove the upper ball joint for the right side spindle, drop the steering assembly, drop the front differential and all the work needed for this, pull the broken CV assembly and then reassemble everything, in one hour. Truly amazing. If a good shop that has never done it before can do it properly in three hours I would be amazed, but an hour, [color:"red"] WOW! [/color] . It took me the better part of six+ hours to get all the frozen, hard to get at parts separated and put back together. I suppose I could do it in three hours now that I know a lot of tricks and if I had a gun to my head.

I have to fit the one hour CV unit change out on a late model Rodeo/Amigo that has never had a bolt or ball joint broke loose on the front end in the same category of those who claim they can change out a V-6 timing belt and water pump and be ready to run in one hour, or say they can do a complete valve lifter adjustment on a 3.2 V6 in one hour (not just a check and say it is good enough, but re-shim every valve).

Changing out just boot and reassembling might be done in an hour or less, but pulling the entire CV joint out of the differential and replacing and being ready to go in an hour, GIVE ME A BRAKE!!!

I think there talking about just the half shaft. I had one of mine out in about 30min, the first time ever doing it.

Hey Nato, chill out man. You are coming across a bit strong there.

I did do it in an hour. All my stuff comes apart pretty easily now though. I don't drop the steering assembly either. Just remove a couple bolts from the steering box and tilt it back, that probably saves a bit of time there. Air tools help too.

But now that I think about it, with a truck with stuck bolts and a mechanic who doesn't have expirience with this, 3 hours is probably about right. I still wouldn't pay $300 labor for this job, but I guess that depends on how messy you like to get. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/notooth.gif" alt="" />

I have heard but not seen that some folks have changed the half shaft out in 45 minutes on the trail. I myself changed one out on the grass at Moabs Portal campground in the dark by flashlight in about 1 1/2 hours. I think an hour is certainly doable given the right conditions.

Update and more questions <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />
Hi everyone
After 4 hours of hard work (and Yes P.B. Bluster can make you high) I have the following tips to the rest of you (Based on Rodao98)
1. Use P.B. Bluster otherwise there is no way in the world a nut that was close for 7 years and 90k mile will open
2. A must to have is a22mm socket and use a 1/2" drive (mainly breaker bar) as a 3/8" will snap
3. The pry bar to release the upper arm should be no longer then 16" otherwise it will not fit

Now for the problems: <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />
As the Half shaft is sold in one kit (if you open the rubber boots you don't have warranty on it)
how do you remove the Caps from the Axle side and from the Inner Hub Side ???

P.S.
If you need picture let me know as I'm still failing to upload them

I am in the middle of this now so this has been a good post for me, but right now the pickle fork is jammed tight into the unmoving upper ball joint. My friend with a torch is out enjoying the day. So I am looking around for anything to help. Does anyone have a gun they can come put to my head?

Release the 3-4 screws at the top of the upper are and try to stick a screwdriver in between that part in the upper are (the upper part of the arm)
This might give you the extra you need to get it off

Let me know when you get to the next step

<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/zombie.gif" alt="" />
The half-shaft--refers to taking the inside joint apart.
1) take off wheel
2)brakes
3)tie-rod (at spindle)
4)Take apart hub
5)remove snapring that holds axle in place
6)take upper ball-joint loose
7)take inside boot off
8)remove inside snapring and pull the inside of the joint out,with the axle and outer cv still attached.
9)remove assemble thru rear of spindle---easier to clean.

Clean inner joint peices---don't loose the balls.

assemble is reverse of dissasemble (except for choice words towards the boot) <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />
This is common when replacing the inner boot.

If your Assemble has both boots on it then you don't have what is refered to as a "half shaft"
You actually bought the whole "axle shaft assemble"

This requires you to drop the actual diff. to pull the axle out of the "Third member".

Then you'll have an axle assemble with both boots/joints and a large metal plate(that bolts to the diff housing and the frame.
This is held in place with a snap-ring.
You''l have to take the mounting plate off and reuse it on your new assemble.

Hope this helps

Did you break the "joint" or the "axle"????


Bansil

I have all the pictures in the would to show the problem and I can't load them (don't know how to)
I also have them in Yahoo

The old part (lost all balls and outer locking)
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/eyal99h/detail?.dir=/acf2&.dnm=acfe.jpg

The new part
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/eyal99h/detail?.dir=/acf2&.dnm=b53c.jpg&.src=ph

And space between
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/eyal99h/detail?.dir=/acf2&.dnm=81dc.jpg&.src=ph

http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/eyal99h/detail?.dir=/acf2&.dnm=871a.jpg&.src=ph
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/eyal99h/detail?.dir=/acf2&.dnm=f845.jpg&.src=ph

Bottom line is that lost all the balls in the outer joint and all shops state I need to replace it all

The question now is <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />
1. Do I need to drop the diff or just lose the 4 bolts on it ?
2. Ho do I release the outer side ?

I took a break and worked on my Geo, go ahead <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" />

I saw the pics. If you have a manual it lists out the gory details of undoing the spindle, lower control arm, and dropping the differential. I'm still stuck (or my pickle fork is) on the upper ball joint. Bansil is right, you have the axle shaft assembly. I haven't bought mine yet, so looking at your new one helped me out.

As Bansil wrote, the plate the inner bearing attaches to has to be removed to get to the snap ring on the other side.

1. Yes the differential has to be dropped.
2. The hub has to be taken apart, once again see the manual, Haynes actually has some helpfull pictures of the auto locking hubs.

My question is: Does the differential have to be dropped all the way out or can you drop it down as far as you can with the lower control arms still in and get the bracket out?

Of course that is if I can get the ball joint out. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/scared.gif" alt="" />

Sorry about being so picky,but what broke?The inner races on both side "look" ok and the "flanges on the truck,don't look split <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" /> oh and how did you get the outer joint apart?---without breaking anything,especially with the pc's still on the truck??

Any hooo.....you will need to drop the diff and remove those 4 bolts,then you can pull the inner joint out and remove the snapring that holds it together.You may not have to drop the diff the whole way,lot's of folks say that you can lower it some and twist the housing(with a helper) and get it out,Goodluck

Bansil

Sorry if I wasn't clear in my explanations and the use of the word "Broke" however I don't know how did I lost the outer holder and the balls as I was off-road and in the process after hitting a rock in a mud area (I was in mud up to my doors) I have started to hear the click sound of the outer arm hitting the cap.
Every shop in town is not willing or can't sell me the outer parts only and if I buy the half shaft I can't take it apart without losing the warranty.

Any other suggestion or word of wisdom or just continue to take it apart ?

Just get it done with and take off the drive flange cover, take of the snap ring, take that outer cup out, drop the diff and remove the inner cup and replace the whole shaft.

It almost sounds like you lost the ring that holds the inner shaft in the axle cup. If that came out, the shaft could have separated, and you could loose the balls. If that was the case, the half shaft should be fine, not counting the lost balls.

HIH,
<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />Andre

Yes you would really not like trying to disconnect the a-arm. Fortunately it is possible to get the bracket out between the arms. A huge pita, but possible. Once you get everything ready to come out, have a helper with a tube and a hammer underneath, use them to hammer outwards on the bracket while you pull on it. You have to wrestle it back and forth to get it past the steering stop and then the lower a-arm. It seems impossible but you will eventually get it. Sorry I can't describe it any better <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/scared.gif" alt="" />

So-o-o most of these posts have been talking about just changing out the outer CV shaft assembly without pulling the drive cup. ThatÆs basically the same as changing out a CV boot. Yes it can be done in an hour, if, all associated bolts have been broke loose within the last year, youÆve done the job once or twice before, and you have all the correct tools.

Sorry about how strong my first post was. ItÆs a pet peeve of mine when someone tells someone new who has never changed out a timing belt or CV shaft that they can expect to do it in an hour.

IÆve been wrenching for 35 years and no two identical jobs are the same. A three hour job can take ten hours or two hours depending on what you run into.

And, yes, a 3.2 V6 timing belt, water pump, and tensioner, can be changed out in an hour if you have done it several times, have all the materials you will need, and everything works out. But thatÆs the exception, not the rule.

Team, <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />
Thank for all your answers and support, the new CV half shaft is in place and seems to be working fine.
Added the needed oil to the Diff and will check all bolts in a few days before off-roading

Thanks. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

I am replacing my boots on the passenger side Saturday. I plan to spray PB Blaster all over everything Friday night and then get 'er done on Saturday. I have never done this but I have completed many other mechanical endeavors over the years and plan to get this done in 4 hours or less!

2001 Rodeo that I lifted about 3 weeks ago via a torsion bar crank and independent4X.com's basic lift kit.

Go Rodeo!

Start spraying earlier than the day before.... it won't hurt to get under there and spritz every fastener once a night starting tonight. You'll bless me later if you do...

Randii

Did it in three hours. None of the bolts were particularly difficult to remove. As long as you have everthing you need, it is really fairly easy!

I have a 01 rodeo that the driver side front axle broke not the boot or joint but the axle rod right by the wheel any help with a step by step to replace it would be great with pictures