Release the 3-4 screws at the top of the upper are and try to stick a screwdriver in between that part in the upper are (the upper part of the arm)
This might give you the extra you need to get it off

Let me know when you get to the next step

<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/zombie.gif" alt="" />
The half-shaft--refers to taking the inside joint apart.
1) take off wheel
2)brakes
3)tie-rod (at spindle)
4)Take apart hub
5)remove snapring that holds axle in place
6)take upper ball-joint loose
7)take inside boot off
8)remove inside snapring and pull the inside of the joint out,with the axle and outer cv still attached.
9)remove assemble thru rear of spindle---easier to clean.

Clean inner joint peices---don't loose the balls.

assemble is reverse of dissasemble (except for choice words towards the boot) <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />
This is common when replacing the inner boot.

If your Assemble has both boots on it then you don't have what is refered to as a "half shaft"
You actually bought the whole "axle shaft assemble"

This requires you to drop the actual diff. to pull the axle out of the "Third member".

Then you'll have an axle assemble with both boots/joints and a large metal plate(that bolts to the diff housing and the frame.
This is held in place with a snap-ring.
You''l have to take the mounting plate off and reuse it on your new assemble.

Hope this helps

Did you break the "joint" or the "axle"????


Bansil

I have all the pictures in the would to show the problem and I can't load them (don't know how to)
I also have them in Yahoo

The old part (lost all balls and outer locking)
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/eyal99h/detail?.dir=/acf2&.dnm=acfe.jpg

The new part
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/eyal99h/detail?.dir=/acf2&.dnm=b53c.jpg&.src=ph

And space between
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/eyal99h/detail?.dir=/acf2&.dnm=81dc.jpg&.src=ph

http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/eyal99h/detail?.dir=/acf2&.dnm=871a.jpg&.src=ph
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/eyal99h/detail?.dir=/acf2&.dnm=f845.jpg&.src=ph

Bottom line is that lost all the balls in the outer joint and all shops state I need to replace it all

The question now is <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />
1. Do I need to drop the diff or just lose the 4 bolts on it ?
2. Ho do I release the outer side ?

I took a break and worked on my Geo, go ahead <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" />

I saw the pics. If you have a manual it lists out the gory details of undoing the spindle, lower control arm, and dropping the differential. I'm still stuck (or my pickle fork is) on the upper ball joint. Bansil is right, you have the axle shaft assembly. I haven't bought mine yet, so looking at your new one helped me out.

As Bansil wrote, the plate the inner bearing attaches to has to be removed to get to the snap ring on the other side.

1. Yes the differential has to be dropped.
2. The hub has to be taken apart, once again see the manual, Haynes actually has some helpfull pictures of the auto locking hubs.

My question is: Does the differential have to be dropped all the way out or can you drop it down as far as you can with the lower control arms still in and get the bracket out?

Of course that is if I can get the ball joint out. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/scared.gif" alt="" />

Sorry about being so picky,but what broke?The inner races on both side "look" ok and the "flanges on the truck,don't look split <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" /> oh and how did you get the outer joint apart?---without breaking anything,especially with the pc's still on the truck??

Any hooo.....you will need to drop the diff and remove those 4 bolts,then you can pull the inner joint out and remove the snapring that holds it together.You may not have to drop the diff the whole way,lot's of folks say that you can lower it some and twist the housing(with a helper) and get it out,Goodluck

Bansil

Sorry if I wasn't clear in my explanations and the use of the word "Broke" however I don't know how did I lost the outer holder and the balls as I was off-road and in the process after hitting a rock in a mud area (I was in mud up to my doors) I have started to hear the click sound of the outer arm hitting the cap.
Every shop in town is not willing or can't sell me the outer parts only and if I buy the half shaft I can't take it apart without losing the warranty.

Any other suggestion or word of wisdom or just continue to take it apart ?

Just get it done with and take off the drive flange cover, take of the snap ring, take that outer cup out, drop the diff and remove the inner cup and replace the whole shaft.

It almost sounds like you lost the ring that holds the inner shaft in the axle cup. If that came out, the shaft could have separated, and you could loose the balls. If that was the case, the half shaft should be fine, not counting the lost balls.

HIH,
<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />Andre

Yes you would really not like trying to disconnect the a-arm. Fortunately it is possible to get the bracket out between the arms. A huge pita, but possible. Once you get everything ready to come out, have a helper with a tube and a hammer underneath, use them to hammer outwards on the bracket while you pull on it. You have to wrestle it back and forth to get it past the steering stop and then the lower a-arm. It seems impossible but you will eventually get it. Sorry I can't describe it any better <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/scared.gif" alt="" />

So-o-o most of these posts have been talking about just changing out the outer CV shaft assembly without pulling the drive cup. ThatÆs basically the same as changing out a CV boot. Yes it can be done in an hour, if, all associated bolts have been broke loose within the last year, youÆve done the job once or twice before, and you have all the correct tools.

Sorry about how strong my first post was. ItÆs a pet peeve of mine when someone tells someone new who has never changed out a timing belt or CV shaft that they can expect to do it in an hour.

IÆve been wrenching for 35 years and no two identical jobs are the same. A three hour job can take ten hours or two hours depending on what you run into.

And, yes, a 3.2 V6 timing belt, water pump, and tensioner, can be changed out in an hour if you have done it several times, have all the materials you will need, and everything works out. But thatÆs the exception, not the rule.