My Fuel economy tipsà

Front end alignment with close to 0? camber and run the tire pressure to the high side.

Easy with the pedal on the right, off the throttle early when its clear you have a stop coming up. I shift into neutral and coast when I can.

A decent O2 sensor, clean injectors, good spark plugs, clean intake, cat that is not restrictive and brakes that are not dragging all help.

Good maintenance on a Montero is to grease the caliper pins often esp if you get them wet. The upper pins tend to stick once they get water in them.

Proper wheel bearing adjustment helps too loose is bad for the parts. Avoid roof racks when possible.

A level setting of the body. Too low in the front probably increases drag, but I have not tested this àyet.

Kevin

My wife's new truck uses 0W-40 Mobil 1 as recommended in the owners manual. Service interval is 13,000 miles.... It's hard for me to believe (read: trust) some of this new-fangled stuff. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" />

I now have 500 miles on my rebuild - I've always stuck with the manufacturer's recommendations (in this case 10W-30), but wondering if I should switch to Mobil 1 and if so, which viscosity? I probably will just continue with the cheap Pennzoil and change it (and the filter) often.

Frank

What kind of truck uses the 0W40? 10W30 Mobil 1 is great stuff. 5W30 is only necessary if you live somewhere that gets really cold.

I was half kidding with the 5W20. However, Ford has revised their recommended viscosity for a lot of their vehicles back to around 1995 to use the 5W20 oil. Their specification for the oil is pretty stringent. It would probably be fine in our engines.

I just recently increased the pressure of my tires from 31 to 36psi. I have also refrained from driving faster than 75mph(I used to go up to 85). I previously got 17-17.5 mpg. My last tanks were 18.5 mpg and 19 mpg.

Whatever floats your boat

MB ML-350... not a real truck, I suppose.... <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />

Frank

I am sure it is a beautifull car/truck.

The Germans love 40 Weight oil.
The Japanese love 30 weight oil.
The Americans are turning to 20 weight oil.

Who is right? To me, 40W seems like a complete waste of HP.

MB 350ML 3.5L, DOHC, 24 valve, Variable Intake, Variable Valve timing, 268HP. Approx 76.5 HP per liter. Pretty impressive without a turbo.

How far is your drive? Lets just say 1000 miles and you get 15mpg that's 67 gallons ( rounded up )

If you get 18 mpg that 56 gallons, you save 11 gallons and estimate gas at $2.50. a gallon. You save $27.50, assuming it works. Your going to be hungry and thirsty from driving with no AC and no PS. I would imagine your $27.50 will be spent on food and gatoraid.


<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

you know what I say? if you afforded to buy it you can afford to fuel it... sometimes I don't like that saying but hey its true.. people whine about gas prices yet they still buy cars that get 17mpg, well I get anywhere from 18 to 22 mpg depending on my driving style. I would say just keep your PS and don't use the A/C unless it feels like an oven with the windows open. my A/C does not work so my belt went in the garbage months ago (fixing A/C soon so time to buy new belt) and I notice ZERO difference without the belt...

my 2 cents

I've always heard it was more economical to use the A/C as opposed to driving without it if you end up opening your windows...I heard the extra "drag" from the open vehicle is equal to or greater than the amount of economy you'd lose running A/C...sound right? Or should that tidbit of info be filed near the "Tornado Fuel Saver"? <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" />

yep it should, Unless you are dragging a parachute behind you. The a/c creates more HP loss. Remember, the windows open affect the vehicle at the tires after the rearend gear advantage. The a/c drag is directly on the motor.