Was trying to do a simple brake job when I broke the first bolt I was trying to remove. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" /> Anybody got any ideas on how to get it out. I have been trying to drill it out starting with a small bit and gradually getting larger. I have been able to get one bit to go all the way through but of course it was dull afterwards and have killed several more trying to step up to a larger size. I'm trying to accomplish this without removing the steering knuckle if possible. Anyway, I'm stumped. Let me know what you guys think. Here's a pic. [img][image]http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y40/turbotruk/DSC00374.jpg[/img][/image]
BTW I have removed the rotor to access the bolt from the outside of the truck/knuckle

get an extractor (EZ-out) and chuck up on it in a drill and try to turn it out.

Buddy

Might consider some better bits, try a set of high speed steel (HSS) or carbide or cobalt steel bits. Drill at clow speed, lots of pressure and get some cutting (tapping) oil to keep the bit lubed and cool. If you can step up the size of the bit to a little under the bolt size, you can get the old threads to come out faily easily.

Thanks for the ideas. Thought about the EZ Out but I've broken them before and then I'm screwed even worse. I'll have to get some cutting oil as I'm out. Also pick up a couple better bits. I'll keep you posted.

Have only had to do it twice myself.. Drilling it out with increasing size bits has worked well for me..

Take your time and of course, getting the hole centered is the trick..

Had a badly rusted thermostat housing bolt break off in a cylinder head.. When the last bit was run down in it, it just kissed the outer edges of the threads and was able to pick out what was left of the bolt with a sharp tool..

Ran a tap down to clean the original threads and they were reusable..

My friend tried one of those extractors they sell at Sears. He said it worked great so it might be worth a shot.

You can also try increasing sizes of left hand drill bits. If you're lucky it will eventually crack loose and turn out on one of the bits. Just make sure you are drilling dead center in the bolt.

I had the same type of problem on my knuckle when I sheared the bolts on the steering arm. It is hard to do it with a hand held drill motor. Even with slow speed and cutting oil, I kept dulling bits. I finally set it up on my drill press and they cut like butter. Watch the chips coming from the bits, they should be no darker then a ôstraw colorö. If they start to get darker then apply more fluid. As Roger said good bits, slow speed, and good cutting fluid. I use a product called ôRapid Tapö. I get it at an industrial supply place that sells machine tools and products.

I haven't tried the Sears extractors but the one I like are the square, tapered kind. I only have one so far, for smaller bolts and it has worked very well every time I used it. You tap it into the hole with a hammer, the edges cut into the sides of the hole then you turn out the extractor:

http://shop.store.yahoo.com/brandsplace/0246-kd-720.html

I'm guessing they only have hardened cutting edges but the body is not so brittle. That seems to be the problem with the spiral type extractors and why the snap off so easy.

Well with the use of a couple of Cobalt drill bits and some cutting oil I have managed to work up to a 3/8 bit. I have stopped there for now. The 3/8 fit throught the other hole but was wondering if anybody knows offhand what size the bolt is that fits in there. I haven't been out to a store with the good bolt to compare. Don't want to drill it out any further without that knowledge in case I need to get a tap. Here's what it looks like now. BTW thanks for all your suggestions.
[img][image]http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y40/turbotruk/DSC00375.jpg[/img][/image]