While I'm waiting for your email address, here are some suggestions - others might have some more:

If you have an impact wrench, removal of the crank pulley bolt is easy. Otherwise, your biggest challenge in the job will be holding the crank rotation while tightening the pulley bolt during re-installation. Some use the old belt wrapped around the crankshaft sprocket.... some maybe use a torque stick on an air gun (do that at your own risk).

Check to see if you have the old style pulley bolt. It has a large barrel thickness the same diameter as the head of the bolt all along the bolt to the pulley. If so, get the new style. If you don't can't find the number, let us know. The old bolt has a habit of coming loose ar shearing and you don't want to know the consequences.

Should you find the torque specs in any manual for the pulley bolt, it's probably wrong. The correct torque spec (lightly oiled bolt and washer) was restated in a TSB at 134 lb/ft (+/- 3 lb/ft).

Get a new timing belt tensioner and tensioner spring while you're doing the job - it's cheap insurance.

When was the water pump last replaced? Consider it while you're doing the timing belt.

Let us know if you have any questions.

Good luck,
Frank


'89 [color:"white"]G-Raider[color:"white"] [color:"black"]Supercharged 3.0L, MegaSquirt 2, lockup A/T, 2.5" exhaust, 172k, Cibie H4s/Oscar SCs, Hella Micro DE fogs, Cobra CB, Superwinch hubs, LSD rear/Aussie Locker front, Bilsteins, Lifeline AGM, Rust-Oleum