Does your monty have an aftermarket alarm?

No alarm. Just one sad, unhappy owner. I guess it's time for a tow truck. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />

Have you checked for codes from the ECM yet?

If that noise you get after cranking, sounds simular to air escaping, pull the two rear spark plugs and try to start. If it starts or makes an attempt, you have a clogged cat or exhaust system.
Conner

RSMonty, Where are you from? Are you in the rust belt like me? This could be a clogged fuel filter, or even a debris in the gas line, clogging it.

No idea what the noise sounds like from your lack of discription, but it could still be the fuel pump relay, that just seems like it is coming from the engine bay.

I am beyond frustrated. This forum is the only reason I have hope. I had printed out the no-start guide and began testing, now the battery is dead from all my cranking. I am also worried the ECU died. I am taking a break before I begin again with the rear sparks/fuel filter as suggested. I will trickle charge the battery, dust myself off, and climb back under the hood. I'm still baffled as to why the truck died suddenly without warning. Fine the day before, refusing to turn over the next. I just know that if I end up having it towed, it will be a death knell. I've had 14 great years with this car, but S.O. doesn't want any more money put into it. I will need the Montero grieving and loss forum next. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" />

You first said it wouldn't turn over, but now you say the battery died from cranking - so I assume the starter turns the engine over just fine but the engine doesn't fire and run.

First thing - check for spark - engine off, pull a plug wire, remove the plug, reinstall plug wire on the plug. hold the plug body ( threaded part, not the tip) with a pair of insulated pliers against the block or other ground point and have someone try to start the engine. Do you have spark? If not, further checks are needed, but let us know the answer to that first.

Frank

I'm sure the sound you're referring to is the ECU clicking off. Is it it click that happens about 10 seconds after you turn the ignition off/pull the key? If so, it is just the ECU.

Listen to Frank, check for spark using his method. But the first thing I'd do is check the computer for codes!!! It'll even tell you if the ECU itself is toast or not. Go here for the guide on doing this - all it takes is a simple analog multimeter which is only $10 at your nearest Wal-mart, etc.

Do those things & then report back here...


Shawn

I am probably not explaining myself well... here goes: Truck ran fine night before. Tried to start next day, would not turn over. Sounded like normal start up, but engine would not catch. In following the no-start guide...No spark at sparkplugs.No spark at coil. Resistance 10v. Rotor turns. Could not get a reading for engine code from the ECM. I was using a digital voltmeter, and the reading spiked and stayed up. (I had used this same meter about 2 months ago to get readings/pulses to diagnose an oxygen sensor problem and replaced) After trying numerous times to start truck, listen for sounds, check for spark,etc. battery died. My big worry is a bad ECM. I will check out the fuel filter and see about getting an analog voltmeter. I hate to replace the coil wire,spark plugs, wires, distributor cap, rotor and cables and find out it needs a $$$ ECM! Thanks to all for talking me through this. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/baby.gif" alt="" />

Resistance is measured in "ohms", not "volts".

The values in the following advice are from my Haynes manual for the '91 3.0L - I assume it's correct but I don't have a FSM for the '91 - only my '89:

Key switch off - pull the 2-wire connector plug to the coil (not the high voltage lead to the distributor). Set your test meter to "ohms" (lowest scale) and check the primary resistance across the 2 terminals - it should be between 0.72 and 0.88 ohms.

Now set the meter scale to the highest range. Remove the high voltage lead to the distributor and check the secondary coil resistance between the high voltage terminal and the lower (the vertical blade terminal) of the 2 previously tested terminals - it should read between 14.5K and 19.5K ohms (K=1,000). Let us know what readings you get. If they're much different the coil is bad and must be replaced.

If the coil passes those tests, the power transistor is suspect. The power transistor is what triggers the coil, much like points in an older vehicle. The Haynes manual has no information I can find on the power transistor, so I'm giving you the test procedure from the '89 FSM and I'm assuming the power transistors are the same. Check as follows:

The power transistor is the black, flat contraption mounted next to the coil on the coil bracket. Remove the 3-wire connector. As you look at the 3 electrical connections, mentally number them 1,2,3 from left to right.... they have letter designations on the topside of the unit, but my truck isn't here right now and I can't give you the designations that way - so -

With your test meter set on "ohms", check between terminal 2 (middle) and terminal 3 (right).... there should be no continuity (high reading in ohms).

Connect the negative (-) side of a 1.5v flashlight battery to terminal 2 (middle terminal) and the battery positive (+) to terminal 1 of the power transistor (you'll need some small alligator clips) - Now there should be continuity (zero ohms) between terminal 2 and terminal 3.

If you connect and remove the battery (+) lead, you should see the meter move back and forth between continuity and no continuity just like a switch - which is what the power transistor is acting as when voltage is applied.

This test is difficult to do because of the tight quarters, but be patient and get whatever clips you need to get good readings without the clips touching each other. If it's easier for you, remove the coil bracket so you can do the test on a table or workbench.

If the power transistor fails this test, you've likely found the culprit.

If the power transistor passes, remove and check the coil wire with your meter leads on each end - I don't have a handy reference on ohms/foot but guessing it should be somewhere around 2K ohms max for the short lead.

Let us know when you've tried these tests.

Oh, if either the coil or the power transistor fail the tests, I'd suggest getting a complete assembly from a junk yard as electrical components can last for 10 seconds or 100 years.

Frank