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Well I've been thinking more and more about this motor swap.... My orignal plan was to swap in a Taco 2.7L 3RZFE motor since its basically a bolt-in. I'm just not sure if a 3RZ-FE will be enough for me! I would hate to go through all this work and still not be satisfied with the highway performance of the 4runner.

I know I want more HP. Torque numbers are not that important since I've got tons of gears (Dual Ultimate T-case) but it would be nice if the motor has a flat torque curve which means a wider power band. I also want to retain my W56 tranny and don't want the expensive of replacing that to say a R series tranny. And toy T-cases since I have lots of money in mine. I also don't want to buy an expensive adapter since most AA adapters I see to adapt to the toy tranny run about $400-$500 and to adapt a R-series tranny to a toy t-case is about $350 from Marlin! I also want something with equal or better gas mileage. 12-14 MPG Highway and 10-12 MPG City and even lower on the trail is really starting to suck with the rising costs of crude oil....

So with all those items basically that only leaves me with toyota motors which make for an easy swap with the correct FACTORY bell-housing. Also its pretty cool to keep it all Toyota.

Toyota Motors

20R, 2.2L, 90 [email]HP@4800[/email], 122 [email]Ft-Lbs@2400[/email]
22R, 2.4L, 96 [email]HP@4800[/email], 129 [email]Ft-Lbs@2800[/email]
22RE, 2.4L, 112 [email]HP@4600[/email], 142 [email]Ft-Lbs@3400[/email]
22RTE, 2.4L, 135 [email]HP@4800[/email], 173 [email]Ft-Lbs@2800[/email], 6psi
20R/22R Hybrid, Estimated 135-155 HP depending on build
2RZFE, 2.4L, 142 [email]HP@5000[/email], 160 [email]Ft-Lbs@4000[/email]
3RZFE, 2.7L, 150 [email]HP@4800[/email], 177 [email]Ft-Lbs@4000[/email]
3VZ-E, 3.0L, 150 [email]HP@4800[/email], 180 [email]Ft-Lbs@3400[/email]
5VZ-FE,3.4L, 190 [email]HP@4800[/email], 220 [email]Ft-Lbs@3600[/email]
5M-GE, 2.7L, 143 [email]HP@5200[/email], 154 [email]Ft-Lbs@4400[/email]
7M-GE, 3.0L, 199 [email]HP@6000[/email], 188 [email]Ft-Lbs@3600[/email]
7M-GTE,3.0L, 232 [email]HP@5600[/email], 254 [email]Ft-Lbs@3200[/email], 5psi

So to narrow this list down first I will start with HP. the 22re stock puts out 112 HP. and I thought I rebuilt mine to the 140hp level but now I'm thinking maybe it was only around 125-130 hp level. Which for me is NOT enough.

* So that eliminates the 20R, 22R, 20/22RE hybrid

I also decided that I don't want a turbo. Just too much maintance and the possiblity of damage and expense to replace so that leaves me with these motors. Plus the fact of cool down time and I can't sem to leave anything stock which means I will never stop tweaking with it to make even more power which eventually just leads to carange on the trail. And I hate fixing stuff on the trail.

* So that eliminates the 22RTE, 7M-GTE

Then theres the ones I can't adapt to my W56 tranny easily.

* Those eliminate the 3VZ-E, 5VZ-FE

So heres whats left of the list, I left the 22RE for reference HP and Torque numbers.

22RE, 2.4L, 112 [email]HP@4600[/email], 142 [email]Ft-Lbs@3400[/email]
2RZFE, 2.4L, 142 [email]HP@5000[/email], 160 [email]Ft-Lbs@4000[/email]
3RZFE, 2.7L, 150 [email]HP@4800[/email], 177 [email]Ft-Lbs@4000[/email]
5M-GE, 2.7L, 143 [email]HP@5200[/email], 154 [email]Ft-Lbs@4400[/email]
7M-GE, 3.0L, 199 [email]HP@6000[/email], 188 [email]Ft-Lbs@3600[/email]

I just don't think the 3RZFE (34% more HP, 25% more Torque) is worth the trouble. And the 5M-GE has even less HP and Torque. So that basically leaves me with the 7M-GE. This motor would be an increase of 77% more HP and 32% more Torque. Should be more than enough for what I want/need. I also heard that most of these motors in the wrecking yards do have low mileage because people typically don't daily drive these vehicles and they wreck the cars them pretty quickly. Well after looking into a bit more, Yes, typically these motors do have lower mileage, but they are still hard to find because there is high demand for them. So when it comes to finding a motor, Its still down to luck.... unless you buy it from an importer like JDM. And then I've heard that the completeness of the motor can be a problem.

There is also the newer Supra motors JZ motor series which might be adaptable to the W56. Some poeple say its possible and others say its not.... but I know thats more horsepower than I want! Plus the cost of these motors are really pretty high.

1JZ-GE, 3.0L, 200 [email]HP@6000[/email], 185 [email]Ft-Lbs@4000[/email]
2JZ-GE, 3.0L, 225 [email]HP@6000[/email], 220 [email]Ft-Lbs@3600[/email]
2JZ-GTTE, 3.0L, 320 [email]HP@6000[/email], 315 [email]Ft-Lbs@3600[/email]

So after a bit of searching I did find that it looks like you don't have to cut out the hood latch in the core support to make this motor/radaitor fit, which I was let to believe that you had to do that to make this motor fit. So offically the 7M-GE is what I'm going to go with! Another benefit is on www.SupraCharged.com they have a wiring diagram and it looks pretty simple Plus Sky just got done installing his 7W-GE and hes just up the road from me! I've also now have had a chance to drive a Toyota with 36" Iroks's, 5.71 gears and a 7M-GE and really like what I felt!

So after a few phone calls and some trips to the wrecking yards I think I have found my Engine! Basically I just got VERY lucky on this...... one of my local yards just got a 89 Cressida in with 102,000 miles and it hasn't been processed. I'm going to go look at it at Lunch today and probably pay for the motor and everything else on my swap list! Below is my swap list that sI've accumulated thus far:


7M-GE (non-turbo) Parts List for installation into a 85 4Runner with a W56 Tranny

Used Parts
*******************
* 7M-GE engine from a 89-92 Cressida or 87-93 Supra (prefer non-cali model) ~100K with good compression
* uncut motor harness for above car with ECU, coil/igniter, injector resistor, AFM, (hvac sensor?)
* Exhaust (exhaust manifold, 02 Sensor, Cat, Muffler?)
* (If motor is from a Cressida, then I will need to get an oil pan, pickup, dip stick from a Supra)
* 5M-GE upper motor mount brackets from an 81-88 Cressida or 81-87 Supra
* 5M/7M bellhousing, flywheel, clutch fork, slave cylinder from a '83-'92 non-turbo 5 speed supra
* Ford Taurus 3.8L 2 speed electric fan (also Mercury Sable) approx 16-18" diameter


New Parts
*******************
* New Clutch Assembly (centerforce?)
* New Timing Belt
* New Hoses (Radiator & Vacumm)
* New Cap/Rotor/Plugs
* New Exhaust
* New Power Steering Lines (maybe)
* New Air filter (K&N filter charger)
* New Fluids


Existing Parts
*******************
* Rework radiator inlet and outlet
* Reuse existing 22RE motor mounts
* Reuse W56 Tranny and Dual Ultimate T-Cases

Some links of interest that I've found so far...
*******************
http://www.supracharged.com/4runner/7mswap.shtml
http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/tech/supra/index.htm
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showpost.php?p=4043286 <-- ford taurus fan wiring






Wiring info from SupraCharged.com
*******************
The C1 connector(yellow connector near igniter) has 2 wires that you will use if you use the EFI main relay in conjuntion with the circuit opening relay. Wires that you may need from this connector:

Black/Orange - (M-REL on ECU, not required) - Used as the activating power to the EFI Main Relay

Black/Yellow - (BATT on ECU, required) - constant power, use a 7.5 amp FUSE

EFI Main Relay - In the Supra turbo and other Toyota Turbo vehicles, the ECU conrols the EFI Main(M-REL off the
ECU),. In Toyota non-turbo cars and trucks, the EFI Main is controled by the ignition switch. You don't have to change this, as I have not seen any problems running it this way, unless you are picky and want to have it exactly the same as the turbo configuration.

If you do want to run it like the 7MGTE, you will have to cut the relay coil power wire that goes into the EFI
main. The location of the EFI main will vary depending on the year of your vehicle. You will need connect the
M-REL wire from the C1 connector, and use it to power your factory EFI main. Again, this will be the Black/Orange wire at the C1 connector. The output of the EFI main should then supply the power to the Circuit Opening Relay.

The Circuit Opening Relay(COR) is what supplies power to the fuel pump. The power that is sent to the COR then to the fuel pump comes from the EFI Main Relay, so the EFI main must be activated before power can be supplied to the COR. The COR has a dual coil for activation, one of the relay coils can be activated by the starter. This is done by supplying power from the starter wire to the relay coil which has a constant ground. That wire is a small guage black wire with blue stripe coming from the large yellow connector (B1) by the ECU. Just tie this wire into your starter wire. The other coil is activated by the Fuel Control, or FC (B1 connector) from the ECU. The ECU sends a ground signal to the COR, and if relay has power from the EFI main relay(discussed earlier), then the COR will supply power to the fuel pump, or the Fuel Pump Control Relay if you wish to use it. If you are running a non-turbo engine, the COR is controled by the green wire going into the AFM, not the ECU. You can splice into that green wire and tie that into the green wire on your project vehicles AFM connector. That will take care of
the pump problem.

Fuel Pump Control Relay(FPCR) - (Not Required)- Once power is able to pass through the COR, there is then a FPCR.

This is just a resister to change the voltage to the fuel pump. I have run many swap without this without any problems or any changes in gas mileage. This recieves power from the COR for both the contact switch, and the relay coil. The ground is controled by the FP (B1 connector) signal coming from the ECU.

Both the FPCR and COR are not needed to make this run properly, but you will need to find an alternate way to control the fuel pump. At first I just had mine connected to the ignition switch. Problem with that, is your fuel pump is always if your ignition is on(like if you get in a wreck, you pump will keep pumping fuel....not good).



Summary
In short, if all that was confusing, the only thing you really need to do on the C1 connector is hook the black/yellow wire to constant power. Then for the fuel pump control, hook the green wire up the the FC from the ECU. The 7MGE(non-turbo), does not have a FC from the ECU, instead you will splice the green wire into the 7M engine harness near the 7M AFM connector. I hope after all this, you aren't confused too much.







The B1 connector, or "THE BIG YELLOW CONNECTOR, near the ECU" There are 5 wires you will use grom this connector:

BLACK/WHITE - Large 10 guage Black with a white stripe - Starter (depending on year, AT/MT, this could have a white or blue stripe)

Black/orange - Large 10 or 12 guage black with a orange stripe - Needs switched power. This runs directly from the ignition switch, and powers your injectors, coil, and igniter.

Black/orange - Small 16 guage black with orange stripe. This also needs switched power. This could be tied into the Large black/orage wire.

Green - (FC on ECU) - Green wire - This controls ground the Circuit Opening Relay

yellow - (FP on ECU) - Yellow wire - NOT NEEDED! this is used to reduce the voltage on the fuel pump, but is not
neccesary.

Starter
This is the wire that goes to the starter solenoid. It is located in the center part of the connector. In a
manual, this will travel from the ignition switch, through the clutch switch, through the starter relay, then
through this connector. Automatics are a little more difficult. If you do have an auto wiring harness, the starter wire run through the engine harness, to the tranny harness under the intake manifold. You will need to cut and splice the wires togother in order to complete the loop to feed power to the starter solenoid. The auto will usually use a Black/White wire, and the manual will use a Black/Blue wire. In some vehicles such as the 85-older supra's, and I have noticed older model pickups, that this wire goes through tho body harness. If this is the case, you will have to figure out where that is, splice into it, and run it to this connector. On newer vehicles the starter will run through the engine harness.

Accessory Power
This is a large black wire with an orange stripe. Along with the starter, these are the two center wires in this
connector. You have to have switched power to this wire in order to supply power to your injectors, coil, and igniter. This usually comes through the ignition, and requires at least 15 amps. In other words, don't use the
power from your radio.

Circuit Opening Relay(Ground)
The green wire coming from the FC signal from the ECU, controls the ground on the Circuit Opening Relay. As long as there is power to this relay(which is discussed on the C1 connector), power will then travel to the fuel pump, or Fuel Pump Control Relay. This allows your fuel pump only to turn on when the engine is running. When the engine stops running, the ECU will cut the ground signal to this wire, which will turn off the Circuit Opening Relay, and no longer supply power to the fuel pump.

Fuel Pump Control Relay(Ground)- This is for the resister, and is not needed This yellow wire from the FP signal on the ECU, is used for a dual speed fuel pump setting. The ECU will supply a ground to the Fuel Pump Control Relay, which will then change the resistance on the power going to the fuel pump.

The relay and resistor is located on the passenger side strut tower. I have run many swaps without this component, and have not seen any impact on fuel economy or peformance.






The M1 connector or "Small Yellow Connector" There are 5 wires you need from this connector:

Yellow/Black - yellow with a black stripe - oil pressure for guage and ECU

Yellow/Green - Yellow with a green stripe - Water temp for guage

Pink - Pink Wire - speed sensor from Combonation Meter.

Green/Gray - Green with gray stripe - Engine light black - Tach (tach mod may be required) Click here for details for 3VZE-7MGTE mod.

Water Temp
The water temp wire, yellow with black stripe is used for your guage only. This is not the temp sensor used for your ECU, so if you get a water temp error on your codes, this is not where you want to look to solve your problem. All toyota vehicles use this color wire for the temp guage, so your swap vehicle will have the same color wire.

Oil Pressure
The same is also true with the Oil Pressure wire. This comes from the oil pressure sending unit and will always
be the same color. Yellow with black stripe. On the 7M, this also feeds into the ECU. I am not really sure why
the ECU needs to know the oil pressure, as I have found it to have no impact on the way the engine runs whether or not it is hooked up to the ECU. In fact, your guage might not even work if it runs through the ECU. You also may need to use your Oil sending unit from your old motor. They are calibrated for the guage on your vehicle. These are pretty easy to change with a 14mm open end wrench, or a very large socket.

Engine Light
The Engine light requires a ground signal from the ECU. This is a black wire. Simple as that. Check your vehicles wiring diagram to figure out what what that is. The 7M uses the black wire, but on other vehicles, I have seen any different colors used. With the engine light, you can run your diagnostic codes, or engine codes by connecting TE and E1 in your "Check Connector" near the igniter. When you turn your ignition on, your light will flash codes. Here is a link for your Diagnostic Codes

Speed Sensor
The Speed Sensor wire, green with gray strip, comes from the Spedometer from your instrument cluster. This is how the ECU knows how fast your are going. I have noted, that connecting this wire will help with stalling. The wire etween the M1 connector and the ECU is pink, but the wire between the M1 connector and the Spedometer could be a range of colors. Refer to your vehicles electrical schematic to figure this out(EFI ONLY).

Tachometer
The Tach wire, black wire, does NOT come from the ECU, and it does NOT go to the ECU. A signal wire goes directly
from the igniter to your tach guage. You can also test this signal from the IG- terminal in the "Check Connector" near the igniter. And again, here is a link for the 3VZE tach mod.

I just added to the very bottom of my first post a list of actual costs for thsi project. I will try to keep it up to date. First entry is the motor and all the associated used parts for the motor swap. at lunch today I just made the first major purchase of $950.........


Here is some more info about the known 7M head gasket failures. The Toyota factory spec for 7MGE & 7MGTE is 78 N-m (58 ft-lb). Well this is not enough..... Many of these engine owners have torqued to a 20% higher valve with much success. So retorquing the head bolts is a common pratice for these engines to 97 N-m (72 ft-lb). Also when retorquing the head - DO NOT LOOSEN the head bolts first, just torque them down tighter....

Here is some good info about the procedure......
http://www.supras.nl/view.php?page=maintenanceRetorque.htm

Well I purchased the engine and other components on Monday from a local wrecking yard. Well the engine and other components, that I needed were still in the car(s). They told me that Wednesday (TODAY) that I might be able to pick everything up. I will know more later after I give them a call. Hopefully I can get everything today!

Unfortionately, I was not able to see the engine or even the car that its being pulled from since it was at another yard getting ready to be processed. So that means I can't get any pictures of the 7M-GE in the donor Cressida. to see how everything is routed in stock form.

Heres some more tech....

I've been researching radiators.


I'm wanting to keep the factory hood latch so I was thinking about using a factory toyota 3 core radiator with a taurus fan mounted in front of it for my 85 4Runner. I asked my local NAPA the specs on the '87 22RTE or '88 3vze since they are both 3 core radiators. They said the 22RTE was 1 1/4" thick where the 3vze was 2" thick but they are both 3 core....


Here is the radiator that I curent have in my '85 4runner. Whe I replaced it 3years ago I should of bought a 3-core....
__________________________________________________ ____

Modine Radiator
Napa #MO945
Price: $ 152.00
Attributes: Radiator
Make: Toyota
Core Size: 15 3/4'' x 20 3/4'' x 1 1/4'' (2 Row)
Inlet Header Size: 1 1/2'' x 20 3/4''
Outlet Header Size: 1 1/2'' x 20 3/4''
Inlet Connector Size: 1 3/8'' Right
Outlet Connector Size: 1 3/8'' Left
Type of Mount: Double Flange
Oil Cooler: 14 3/8'' w/ Adaptors
Comments: Smaller fillerneck cap
Engine=2.4 L 2366 CC L4 22R SOHC
Engine=2.4 L 2366 CC L4 22REC


These are the ones that I'm thinking about getting
that should bolt into my '85 4Runner.
__________________________________________________

Power Flow Radiators Radiator
Napa #PFR192272
Price: $ 176.00
Attributes: Radiator
Make: Toyota
Core Size: 19 1/8'' x 20 3/4'' x 2'' - 3 Row
Inlet Header Size: 2 1/8'' x 20 1/2''
Outlet Header Size: 2 1/8'' x 20 1/2''
Inlet Connector Size: 1 3/8''
Outlet Connector Size: 1 3/8''
Type of Mount: Front Flange Mount
Oil Cooler: 5/8/14
Engine=3.0 L 2958 CC V6 3VZE SOHC

Power Flow Radiators Radiator
Napa #PFR190945
Price: $ 121.00
Attributes: Radiator
Make: Toyota
Core Size: 15 3/4'' x 20 3/4'' x 1 1/4'' - 3 Row
Inlet Header Size: 1 9/16'' x 20 3/4''
Outlet Header Size: 1 9/16'' x 20 3/4''
Inlet Connector Size: 1 3/8''
Outlet Connector Size: 1 3/8''
Type of Mount: Front Flange Mount
Oil Cooler: 10 7/8''
Engine=2.4 L 2366 CC L4 22R SOHC
Engine=2.4 L 2366 CC L4 22REC
Engine=2.4 L 2366 CC L4 22RTEC
Engine=2.4 L 2446 CC L4 2LT Diesel




Right now I'm leaning towrad the 2" thick V6 one. But I'm still unsure if I can get a 2" thick radiator in there with the factory hood latch, but I'm hoping I can! I'm still researching this but thats where I'm headed so far!

__________________________________________________ ____



As for a clutch, this is what I'm thinking of using....

I'm leaning toward a Dual Friction Centerforce clutch:

http://www.dualfriction.com/product...icationid=63113
1989 TOYOTA SUPRA L6 3.0L 2954cc, 7MGE ENG. NON-TURBO 5 SPD.
Part Number: DF522018, Your Total: $277.48

Well no motor today..... Maybe tomorrow since they won't be getting the bellhousing stuff I need until then.



Just found a huge resource of 7M info!
http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/techtips.html

Technical Library:

• TSRM MKII Supra
  TSRM MKIII Supra
  EPC MKIII Supra(NATO)
  EPC MKIII Supra (Non-NATO)
  TEWD MKIII Supra
  Toyota Technical Articles
  Physics of Racing Series
  Supra Statistics
  Gasket Digital Library

Diagnosis:

• Engine Error Codes
  Automatic Transmission Error Codes
  ABS Error Codes
  Vacuum Gauge Readings
  Spark Plug Condition
  AC Diagnosis (PDF)
  Blown Head Gasket FAQ
  Oil Analysis

General Maintenance:

• New Supra Owner FAQ
  Head Swap Pictorial
  BOV Replacement
  Oil Filter Report
  Hood Strut Replacement
  Setting the Timing
  Replacing the Brake Pads
  Bleeding the Brakes
  Changing Fan Belts
  Vacuum Hose Replacement
  Head Coolant Plug Leak
  R134a Retrofit
  Headbolt Retorque
  Coolant Flush
  Changing Spark Plugs
  Compression Testing
  Antenna Replacement
  Oil Cooler Flush
  A/T Shifter Bushings
  A/T Oil Filter Replace
  Blower Speed Fix
  SwayBay Install
  Upper A-Arm Bushings

I just purchased a Ceramic Clutch with 1200 lbs pressure plate from Chris G. @ Marlin Crawler. I wasn't totally sure which direction I wanted to go here. Standard OEM clutches are a more easily slipped, but can glaze over. Where a Ceramic is stickyer but can handle more abuse. Also the standard pressure plate is 1200 lbs. For this application Marlin didn't have any other options, but I've seen 1600 lbs and 3200 lbs by other vendors. I choose to go with a standard 1200 lbs pressure plate to hopefully make the ceramic a bit easier to slip.

Also the wrecking yard still hasn't got the motor pulled from the car, so it will be atleast another day on that. Hopefully I can get it by the weekend....

Well its time for some before pictures.....

Heres what the engine bay looks like now..





And some general dimensions with the 22RE...



25" to the bottom of the front cross member
23" to the bottom of the W56 Bellhousing
20 1/2" to the bottom of the 22re oil pan
19 3/4" to the bottom of Sky's Crossmember
22 1/2" to bottom of Transfer Case Parking Brake Mount

Post deleted by kewlynx

Thanks for the Compliments... Also before anyone asks, YES, thats pvc and duct tape!

I use to have a piece of 3" aluminum tubing bent to fit and silicon hose couplings (used for turbos) in there but when I did my transfercase lift, thus tilting the back of the motor up and forcing the front of the motor down. It cause major clearance issues between the intake tube and the radiator hose, so this was my temperary fix. I was also planning on running dual batteries under the hood and relocating everythign on the right side to make it fit. Well I just never got around to doing that. And now I don't worry about it....

I think you're doing an A1 job! I keep pointing out that if the goal is to keep the W series trans, there are a great many other engine options available. With a $10 Jeep bellhousing and a Camaro V6 flywheel, you can bolt in a whole bevy of GM 60 degree engines. A 3.4L GM crate motor puts out 160HP and 194Ft/lbs torque. Easily upgradable. Don't forget the DOHC 3.4L V6 and the Shortstar V6. Hey, I'm a cheapskate at heart.

Greg

http://www.jeeps-offroad.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=1049