Some links of interest that I've found so far...
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http://www.supracharged.com/4runner/7mswap.shtmlhttp://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/tech/supra/index.htmhttp://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showpost.php?p=4043286 <-- ford taurus fan wiring
Wiring info from SupraCharged.com
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The C1 connector(yellow connector near igniter) has 2 wires that you will use if you use the EFI main relay in conjuntion with the circuit opening relay. Wires that you may need from this connector:
Black/Orange - (M-REL on ECU, not required) - Used as the activating power to the EFI Main Relay
Black/Yellow - (BATT on ECU, required) - constant power, use a 7.5 amp FUSE
EFI Main Relay - In the Supra turbo and other Toyota Turbo vehicles, the ECU conrols the EFI Main(M-REL off the
ECU),. In Toyota non-turbo cars and trucks, the EFI Main is controled by the ignition switch. You don't have to change this, as I have not seen any problems running it this way, unless you are picky and want to have it exactly the same as the turbo configuration.
If you do want to run it like the 7MGTE, you will have to cut the relay coil power wire that goes into the EFI
main. The location of the EFI main will vary depending on the year of your vehicle. You will need connect the
M-REL wire from the C1 connector, and use it to power your factory EFI main. Again, this will be the Black/Orange wire at the C1 connector. The output of the EFI main should then supply the power to the Circuit Opening Relay.
The Circuit Opening Relay(COR) is what supplies power to the fuel pump. The power that is sent to the COR then to the fuel pump comes from the EFI Main Relay, so the EFI main must be activated before power can be supplied to the COR. The COR has a dual coil for activation, one of the relay coils can be activated by the starter. This is done by supplying power from the starter wire to the relay coil which has a constant ground. That wire is a small guage black wire with blue stripe coming from the large yellow connector (B1) by the ECU. Just tie this wire into your starter wire. The other coil is activated by the Fuel Control, or FC (B1 connector) from the ECU. The ECU sends a ground signal to the COR, and if relay has power from the EFI main relay(discussed earlier), then the COR will supply power to the fuel pump, or the Fuel Pump Control Relay if you wish to use it. If you are running a non-turbo engine, the COR is controled by the green wire going into the AFM, not the ECU. You can splice into that green wire and tie that into the green wire on your project vehicles AFM connector. That will take care of
the pump problem.
Fuel Pump Control Relay(FPCR) - (Not Required)- Once power is able to pass through the COR, there is then a FPCR.
This is just a resister to change the voltage to the fuel pump. I have run many swap without this without any problems or any changes in gas mileage. This recieves power from the COR for both the contact switch, and the relay coil. The ground is controled by the FP (B1 connector) signal coming from the ECU.
Both the FPCR and COR are not needed to make this run properly, but you will need to find an alternate way to control the fuel pump. At first I just had mine connected to the ignition switch. Problem with that, is your fuel pump is always if your ignition is on(like if you get in a wreck, you pump will keep pumping fuel....not good).
Summary
In short, if all that was confusing, the only thing you really need to do on the C1 connector is hook the black/yellow wire to constant power. Then for the fuel pump control, hook the green wire up the the FC from the ECU. The 7MGE(non-turbo), does not have a FC from the ECU, instead you will splice the green wire into the 7M engine harness near the 7M AFM connector. I hope after all this, you aren't confused too much.
The B1 connector, or "THE BIG YELLOW CONNECTOR, near the ECU" There are 5 wires you will use grom this connector:
BLACK/WHITE - Large 10 guage Black with a white stripe - Starter (depending on year, AT/MT, this could have a white or blue stripe)
Black/orange - Large 10 or 12 guage black with a orange stripe - Needs switched power. This runs directly from the ignition switch, and powers your injectors, coil, and igniter.
Black/orange - Small 16 guage black with orange stripe. This also needs switched power. This could be tied into the Large black/orage wire.
Green - (FC on ECU) - Green wire - This controls ground the Circuit Opening Relay
yellow - (FP on ECU) - Yellow wire - NOT NEEDED! this is used to reduce the voltage on the fuel pump, but is not
neccesary.
Starter
This is the wire that goes to the starter solenoid. It is located in the center part of the connector. In a
manual, this will travel from the ignition switch, through the clutch switch, through the starter relay, then
through this connector. Automatics are a little more difficult. If you do have an auto wiring harness, the starter wire run through the engine harness, to the tranny harness under the intake manifold. You will need to cut and splice the wires togother in order to complete the loop to feed power to the starter solenoid. The auto will usually use a Black/White wire, and the manual will use a Black/Blue wire. In some vehicles such as the 85-older supra's, and I have noticed older model pickups, that this wire goes through tho body harness. If this is the case, you will have to figure out where that is, splice into it, and run it to this connector. On newer vehicles the starter will run through the engine harness.
Accessory Power
This is a large black wire with an orange stripe. Along with the starter, these are the two center wires in this
connector. You have to have switched power to this wire in order to supply power to your injectors, coil, and igniter. This usually comes through the ignition, and requires at least 15 amps. In other words, don't use the
power from your radio.
Circuit Opening Relay(Ground)
The green wire coming from the FC signal from the ECU, controls the ground on the Circuit Opening Relay. As long as there is power to this relay(which is discussed on the C1 connector), power will then travel to the fuel pump, or Fuel Pump Control Relay. This allows your fuel pump only to turn on when the engine is running. When the engine stops running, the ECU will cut the ground signal to this wire, which will turn off the Circuit Opening Relay, and no longer supply power to the fuel pump.
Fuel Pump Control Relay(Ground)- This is for the resister, and is not needed This yellow wire from the FP signal on the ECU, is used for a dual speed fuel pump setting. The ECU will supply a ground to the Fuel Pump Control Relay, which will then change the resistance on the power going to the fuel pump.
The relay and resistor is located on the passenger side strut tower. I have run many swaps without this component, and have not seen any impact on fuel economy or peformance.
The M1 connector or "Small Yellow Connector" There are 5 wires you need from this connector:
Yellow/Black - yellow with a black stripe - oil pressure for guage and ECU
Yellow/Green - Yellow with a green stripe - Water temp for guage
Pink - Pink Wire - speed sensor from Combonation Meter.
Green/Gray - Green with gray stripe - Engine light black - Tach (tach mod may be required) Click here for details for 3VZE-7MGTE mod.
Water Temp
The water temp wire, yellow with black stripe is used for your guage only. This is not the temp sensor used for your ECU, so if you get a water temp error on your codes, this is not where you want to look to solve your problem. All toyota vehicles use this color wire for the temp guage, so your swap vehicle will have the same color wire.
Oil Pressure
The same is also true with the Oil Pressure wire. This comes from the oil pressure sending unit and will always
be the same color. Yellow with black stripe. On the 7M, this also feeds into the ECU. I am not really sure why
the ECU needs to know the oil pressure, as I have found it to have no impact on the way the engine runs whether or not it is hooked up to the ECU. In fact, your guage might not even work if it runs through the ECU. You also may need to use your Oil sending unit from your old motor. They are calibrated for the guage on your vehicle. These are pretty easy to change with a 14mm open end wrench, or a very large socket.
Engine Light
The Engine light requires a ground signal from the ECU. This is a black wire. Simple as that. Check your vehicles wiring diagram to figure out what what that is. The 7M uses the black wire, but on other vehicles, I have seen any different colors used. With the engine light, you can run your diagnostic codes, or engine codes by connecting TE and E1 in your "Check Connector" near the igniter. When you turn your ignition on, your light will flash codes. Here is a link for your Diagnostic Codes
Speed Sensor
The Speed Sensor wire, green with gray strip, comes from the Spedometer from your instrument cluster. This is how the ECU knows how fast your are going. I have noted, that connecting this wire will help with stalling. The wire etween the M1 connector and the ECU is pink, but the wire between the M1 connector and the Spedometer could be a range of colors. Refer to your vehicles electrical schematic to figure this out(EFI ONLY).
Tachometer
The Tach wire, black wire, does NOT come from the ECU, and it does NOT go to the ECU. A signal wire goes directly
from the igniter to your tach guage. You can also test this signal from the IG- terminal in the "Check Connector" near the igniter. And again, here is a link for the 3VZE tach mod.
