This is amazing! The level of detail is unprecedented and will help many others. I hope the final product exceeds your expectations. And keep the info coming!

Its about about the details..... <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

Okay I got alot done today...... well maybe not a lot, but atleast I got the huge step of putting the motor into the 4runner done!

So the First major event was installing the flywheel. I didn't have the correct bolts so I had to run to the store to buy some; the ones for the 22RE where 12MM and the cressida ones where too short. The ones I got where class 8.8 M10 X 1.25 X 25mm Long. Worked out good.

So the Second major event was installing the clutch... Well the pressure plate I got from MarlinCrawler was wrong. Not sure why, but it wouldn't bolt to the flywheel. It had a slightly smaller bolt circle and hole spacing was different. I knew that could be a possiblilty since Chris Gieger over the phone said they don't normally deal with the engine so he would have to call his supplier for the correct part numbers. Never dawned on me to try it before today....So anyway, after about 30 minutes of phone calls I found a OEM replacement clutch kit about 20 miles away.... So off for another parts run..... Got back to the house and it bolted up perfect. So now I'm going to have to call Marlin Crawler up Monday to figure out what happened and how to return it. This also means that I'm now using a OEM clutch and not a ceramic clutch. Not sure how I feel about that but time will tell.

Then onto trying to fit this engine into the engine bay! The only why I could figure out how to get it in without cutting the core support was to turn it sideways...



And then about halfway into the engine bay turn it back forward and this also requires the tranny to be pulled back out of the way.



See how tight of a fit it is!



Then after a bunch of jiggling and wiggling, all the swear words I know, and about an hour later I finally got it into place and the tranny engaged. I also had to make my thrid parts run for some bellhousing bolts. The (4) upper bolts are M10 X 1.25 X75 mm and the (4) lower bolts are M10 X 1.25 X 40mm.



This is how I hooked up the heater lines and brake booster vacuum line. And yes thats a dual diaphram booster installed with the 7MGE.... I've got about 3/16" between the plenum and the booster. NOT ideal by any means!!! My plans is to dent the booster to make a little more room for it. The EGR is also very close to the firewall, hopefully I can get in there and dent that also! I've also got some ideas on trying to lock the drivetrain down into position a little better that just factory mounts to hopefully stop the engine from moving around so much. We will see what happens.



So here how the motor mounts worked out. 7M block, W58 Bellhousing, W56 tranny, 5M upper mounts, 22R/RE rubbers, and the factory 85 4runner frame mounts. I got to give a lot of credit to whoever figured this combination out!!!!! It still amazes me that all these different factory toyota parts bolt together to make this conversion a bolt in!



Heres another shot of the dual diaphram booster and plenum clearance. I should also mention that this is with 2" of transfer case lift via Sky's Crossmember. Without the transfer case lift, it probably wouldn't clear!



Right now, my new 2" thick V6 radiator will not work the water pump and crank pulley hit it! I've only got about 2 1/2" of room to work with to the radiator mounting surface. I'll figure something out, but I want my factory hood latch! That project is for another day....



Here is how the fuel line, clutch line and starter worked out. Man its a PITA getting to those bolts!



And here is a shot of the Supra oil pan. Looks like it was designed for this application. And this is for all those people that said the Cressida pan would work. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/butwiggle.gif" alt="" /> After taking some measurements of the Cressida pan, that one would interfer with the drag link by 1/2" at ride hieght! As shown in the picture I have 3 1/2" till by bump stop hit and I have 3 3/4" of clearance between either the tie rod or drag link versus the pan! Its just perfect. But I still need to get the oil pump and hardline before I can seal up the bottom of the motor.

Holy crap man! This is hands down the best write-up I've seen on here! Good on ya! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

Thanks...........

It sure doesn't feel like I got much done today......

I fabricated a AFM bracket to support it off the side of the head.



Heres what it looks like bolted up into place.



I also tweaked the main harness a bit to get a cleaner look and got that bolted to the firewall. I also fabbed up a fuel return line from some 1/4" tubing for the back of the firewall.



I got the charcoal canister bolted to the wheel well. I decided to just reuse the one from teh 22RE since it was a bit smaller than the 7M one and I have the mounting brackets. I hope it works alright in this position. I know som eof the early carb trucks have them down low like this.



And here is a mock up of my radiator clearance with a stock 2 core 4 cyl radiator. This isn't going to work.....



Or this.....I think the main reason why mine is so tight compared to others I've seen is that my 4runner has been in a major front end collision before I bought it. When I got it, the front crossmember was badly bent in and everything was teaked and busted up. I actually straighten it most of the way out with a chain and a big tree when I oringally built the rig 5 years ago!!!! So now that problem has resurfaced. Time to start cutting!



Here is a quick overall shot with both batteries in the engine compartment. I main just did this to get a overall picture of what space I had to put stuff.....

Tonight, I figured out how to get a York mounted to this engine for OBA!

My orignal thought was to lower the Alternator and mount the York up high on the driver side of the engine. But I didn't like this option very much because it would put the alternator down in the crap which is a problem with the 22R series alternators and the mud and water here in Oregon. plus after I got the engine installed, there just wasn't enough room to relocate the alternator down low.

What I figured out tonight was how to relocate the PS pump to the driver side of the engine so I can mount the York in the original PS location. another problem this solved was my routing of the PS lines and the location for a PS reservior. Now that the PS pump is back near the steering box I can keep everything basically like OEM.



So what I did first was to cut up the OEM Cressida AC mount. Then I made a couple small adapter brackets. This took a pretty long time to figure it out and to get the alignment right but I think it turned out very simple and clean.



This is what the brackets look like assemblied to the engine:



From the other side:



And with the pump installed:



From the top:



And then this is how it all turned out. I have to get one size longer belt so I can actually tension it properly but thats no big deal. And doing this I was even able to reuse my 85 high pressure power steering line.



Next up is to do the York, But I'm still waiting on the serpentine pulley. I guess the store got it in from my special order and sold it before I could pick it up so they had to order another one for me.....

Post deleted by kewlynx

I was thinking that instead of this post being a sticky that maybe it should be moved to the tech article section, as long as I can still edit and add to it as needed...

BTW, Thanks...... Its all about the details.

Excellent write-up! I just got my 7M-GTE back from the machine shop and will begin reassembly this weekend. I am doing somewhat of a light performance rebuild using Ross forged pistons, a Cometic metal headgasket and some ARP hardware, everything else is new OEM Toyota parts (oil pump, bearings, gaskets, etc.) Your thread has me excited to start putting this thing back together. Look for my thread in the off-topic section; I will updating it with new pics starting late this weekend.

I'm glad I could inspire.....

I got quite a bit done today, well until I ran out of wire for the Mig.... ARGH

Time to tackle the cooling issue. Heres the comparision between the 1 1/4" thick, 2 Core, 4 Cylinder radiator and the 2" thick, 3 Core, V6 radiator.



I cut out the lower part of the core support as needed. But I still left the top main piece for the OEM hood latch.



And since the V6 radiator is taller and I need to move it forward, I had to cut out the factory front crossmember to replace it with a piece of angle. well since I've had the vehicle, the front crossmember has looked like this, so it needed to be replaced anyways....



And now with the new crossmember.



Now you might think that a piece of angle (3 1/2" x 3 1/2" x 1/4") is not enough support but this is a All-Pro bumper that bolts to the front of the frame and the body mounts, so it provides quite a bit of additional support. I might down the road add some rect. tubing to it to stiffen it up, but for now, this will be fine.



Then I took some 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" x 1/8" angle and made my vertical radiator supports. these are going to be welded to the top of the frame and not the sheetmetal core support. Doing that should stop the possiblity of the cab flexing around and changing my radiator clearances.



And now for mock up.... You can hardly even see the electric fan. Just want I wanted - A nice stock look!



Well the tarus fan (16") wouldn't fit with this bumper. so I ended up buying an 14" Hayden rapid-cool reversable electric fan and a 185 degree thermostat relay wiring kit from Knecths (~$163). So thats the fan thats shown here.



This fan is 3 7/8" thick and just clears the winch by 3/8".



And heres the engine clearances I ended up with. and this is with the factory hood latch, just like I wanted....