So that's what those threaded holes are for!!!

Thanks for the "procedure"! I'm gonna let the "free brake check" guy have a go at it & see what he says.

When they are done with it your threaded holes will most likely be no longer threaded. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" />

Good luck Charlie, I know how you feel. My engine is now stripped down to a bare block for the second time in three years. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" />

Charlie,

Just my 2cents but I had a similar problem when I replaced the rear pads on a 95 SR. The problem also happened on only one side and I solved it by removing the anti-squeal shims that come with the factory pads. It turned out that the pads, with the shims, were just too tight a fit on the rotor.

Cheers <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

Wait a minute do you have disks or drums? I've seen those on my drum brakes. Didn't know disks have the same holes... or are the Ebrakes a set of drums in addition to the disks?<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />

The gen II parking brake has a drum built into the disc. The parking brake is totally seperate from the caliper, it has its own brakes shoes and everything.

Yeah, like Nemo said. The parking brake uses brake shoes & a drum. The drum acts as the hub for the disc rotor. If you can take off the rotor, you expose the parking brake shoes.

I could not get my rear left rotor off. Took it to a mechanic. He could not get it off. He took off the caliper & the rotor turns freely.

I am going to take the caliper off of the rotor & wire it up so the brake hose stays connected. I'll then test drive a few miles to see if the brake area heats up. If it does then I know the caliper is not the problem. If it doesn't heat up then I know the parking brake assembly is not the problem.

Sound legit?

I may be wrong, but won't the piston shoot out of the caliper when you apply brakes? <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/scared.gif" alt="" /> May need to put something solid up against the piston face, and wedge/strap it securely into place, to hold everything together.

Cheers <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

Yes, I thought of that. I will put something in to hold the piston, maybe a c-clamp. Should be interesting...

I do not think a C-Clamp will hold the piston. I would stick somthing solid in there.

Test #1:
Stuck a socket inbetween the brake pads. Duct taped the caliper away from the rotor. Brake fluid system intact. Drove for ~5 miles.

Results:
Left rear brake area was as cool as a summer lemonade! Pretty cool...being slightly elated I decided to check ALL the other brake areas.
Right rear was warm but I could keep my finger on the rotor hub.
Left/right front rotors were so hot I could not keep my finger on the rotor surface. I could only touch & instantly pull away!

After test #1 I reinstalled left rear caliper & test drove. Warm to the touch like the right rear. No intense heat. Front rotors still high heat.

WTF!!! I didn't check all brake areas before test #1 but I have now ruled out the parking brake for causing the heat buildup. But now it seems I'm getting some extreme heat at all brake areas, especially the front. The only thing that is common to all 4 brake areas is the master cylinder. Could the master cylinder cause all brake pads to stick to the point of high heat buildup? Braking is normal. No noises.