That's it...I refuse to sell my Raider as I have fallen in love, but I have always wanted a convertible! It's time to chop my top off and set a roll bar/cage. I've seen a couple chopped raiders. Anyone know specifics as to how the cuts were finished, cleaned up? It would be nice if I could get a rollbar which didn't need much (if any) modding before mounting...Speaking of which, any ideas as to where to run the beams? I'd like to prep the truck so it can be driven in nasty weather too (i.e. use a soft top, use the existing top with some fab. as the removeable "hardtop," etc.)Any ideas would be helpful. After I'm finished with this, I intend on having her repainted, etc. so I'll entertain ANY wild ideas. Thanks always,

Mike

well mike this is what i did I cut at the window line,so there would be alot less sheet meyal filling just around the corner at the rear and small fill from the top front corner of the window to the roof.Then folded over the window edges as flat as possible.Same on the tailgate.Then rhinolined the area of work for finished look.Works awsome looks pretty good. Tops,hardtop alot of work so i scrapped the idea.Fast back no windows just for know15 bucks for material 20 bucks for snaps and install tool.Actual conv. top $300 to$350,actual quote from local upolstery shop I build the bows "easy" hardware for bows $20 from local boat shop.bows $10 for piece of EMT tubing borrow a bender from somebody and go for broke..GOOD LUCK..WILL POST PICKS AS SOON AS I FIGURE OUT DIG. CAMERA DEAL.... <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

If you are gonna do it, have a [color:"blue"]REAL roll cage built, by someone who knows what they are doing[/color]. Some of the ones I have seen on this site are not built very good. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/barf.gif" alt="" />

I had planned to do this same thing until I got distracted on diesel engines and biomass fuels.

2 door droptop
- Cut at window line on sides
- Cut just below window and above locking mechanism on tailgate
- Smooth with grinder and weld diamondplate trim all the way around.
- Take it to a good welding shop and have a roll cage installed by someone who knows what they are doing.
- Take it to a boat upholstery shop and have a top made with snaps and zip out windows all the way around.

- Alternative to full top - cut drains and herculine the interior. Install a bikini top!

Powell

Hey Mike,
I got my Montero with the original intention of chopping it.
I cut mine a little lower than most. I had intended to reuse the original top as well. By cutting at the lower body line, it left me more metal to work with under the windows on the top itself. I still have the top, but have pretty well scrapped the idea. There's a member here, T-bones, that hopefully will chime in. He's made his re-attachable.
As for finishing the top of the cut, I just made sure everything was nice and flat and straight. I then cut pieces of 1/8" flat bar out to fit, then welded it up. I did get a bit too much heat on the passenger side, but by the time I was finished with the body work, it's not too noticeable. I then sprayed the tub with spray-on bedliner. I applied it just like an "over-the-rail" job on a pickup. The thickness of the product really helps hide alot, and cleans it up nicely. It also gives me a nice finished interior, as I didn't want carpet in a convertible.
As for a top, I started by welding a channel to the windshield top just like a jeep uses. I got some vinyl from the fabric store and made a bikini top for it. It aint perfect, but it works. I am now getting ready to start making a hardtop for it too. My plan was to use 3/4" sq. aluminum tube for a real spartin frame. The cover it with 1/4" baltic birch 7 laminate plywood. A quick layer of fiberglass, then spray it with bedliner. This may seem tough, but between the wood and 'glass, compound curves can be built pretty easy, and then again, the liner will hide alot of imperfections, and leave me a nearly factory looking finish. When I get two pennies to rub together, I also hope to have a full soft top made. I really like the idea of the Rock Gear jeep tops. It can be a full soft top, or a bikini, without using a bunch of extra bars.

As for the cage! You will NOT find anything pre made! These rigs are enough of a different size that anything will be custom. I believe the rig that Lordtrunks has that used to belong to HighMtnDesert has a roll bar that started out as a hoop from one rig then had to be moddified.
Just find a quality builder to build you a quality cage. I'm about to start rebuilding mine as I'm not happy with either the look or the fact that I bonk my melon on it. It also needs to be moved slightly inboard to allow more clearance for a top. I don't wheel that hard, but I did build the truck for my family. I wanted something that was as good or better than the original top, which mine is. (with the exception of course, of the whole gettin' poked part) Mine is MORE than better than anything Jeep has ever put in their rigs from the factory. I know it will protect us in the event of an accident. I empasize that because this rig was not built for "hardcore" wheeling with the intention of putting it places that it is LIKELY to roll.
Here's a few pics



This one is before the tub and bedsides were sprayed. The rockers all already done.

Dave, that is so damn sweet looking! Do me a favor and take some real close up shots of the spots where the cage is attached and the windshield top, will you?

I've been wanting to do this for many years, but just haven't been motivated- especially when Summers are so short here.

But everytime I see yours I get itchy to grab that saw. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/shiner.gif" alt="" />

WOW...Great looking rig.
Can you take some close up picks of the front bumper setup?
Looks great.

KD

You guys flipping rock...Man, my wife keeps telling me to forget the choptop idea, but Dave you single-handedly sold her with your ride. Thank you all for the pics and advice. I plan on tearing into the truck July 1st (I can't wait for SHUTDOWN!!!!!!! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/butwiggle.gif" alt="" />) I'll take pics and at least be able to tell future hackers what NOT to do...Thanks again for the help

Triangulate, triangluate, trianglaute!!!!!!

When building a cage, even if it's not for hardcore stuff, you NEED to triangulate each corner for strenght. If not, even an easy flop or roll can collapse many cages.

Each hoop and mounting point are on a different plane on my cage. That increases the shear strength tremendously and would prevent it from collapsing. Would it withstand eight rolls at 80mph? I doubt it, neither would most cars on the road today. Mine was designed by a Nascar certified frame and cage builder/inspector, so I think I trust it.