Luckily, you have a mechanical fuel pump, so you don't have to worry about the electrical connectors going to an in-tank pump.

The Haynes procedure for checking your mechanical pump is as follows (which some editorial comments on my part):

1.Check that there is adequate fuel in the fuel tank DUH

2. With the engine running, examine all fuel lines between the fuel tank and fuel pump for leaks, loose connections, kinks or flattening in the rubber hoses. Do this quickly, before the engine gets hot. Air leaks upstream of the fuel pump can seriously affect the pump's output.

3. Check the fuel pump diaphragm flange for leaks.

(at this point they should have said, shut off the engine! Also, at this point have an assistant standing by with a fire extinguisher, preferably not a smoking assistant

4. Disconnect the fuel line at the carburetor. Disconnect the ignition coil and ground it on the engine block (using a jumper to prevent sparks) so the engine can be cranked without it firing. Place a clean container such as a coffee can at the end of the detached fuel line and crank the engine for several seconds. There should be a strong spurt of gasoline from the line on every second revolution.

5. If little or no gasoline emerges from the line during engine cranking, then either the line is clogged or the fuel pump is not working properly. Disconnect the fuel line from the pump and blow air through it to be sure the line is clear. If the line is clear then the pump is suspect and needs to be replaced with a new one.

6. If the fuel pump flow capacity is adequate, check the fuel pressure by attacking a fule guage to the same fule line and cranking the engine. The fuel pressure should be approximately 3.5 psi.