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...I have a CHiltons which says do it with the engine running, yes?


No. that's a new one to me. so i checked my chilton's too, and it does say that. for those that haven't seen it, it says in boldface type with an arrow: --> The vacuum booster will be damaged if the bleeding operation is performed with the engine OFF. i think that is nonsense,IMHO, maybe even a typo. i'd bet there is a better chance of damage to the booster diaphragm with the engine on -- with the hydraulic system open and the vacuum boost working, you stand a chance of extending the pushrod too far, and thus the booster's diaphragm as well.

that's just weird. later, BTW, they caution to HAVE the engine OFF if you have four wheel antilock brakes, so you don't cause CEL codes. oh, well...

i'd do what the factory workshop manual by helms says to do:

1. master cylinder, if necessary,

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18. bleed the air from each wheel in the order listed below.
[*]right rear caliper [*]left rear caliper [*]RWAL antilock valve (RWAL model only) [*]right front caliper [*]left front caliper



what kind of anti-lock brake system is on your's -- rear only or all four wheels. the helms book has more to say about the 4 wheel antilock system, which i'll give you if you need.

here's the link for factory manual's from helm inc. expensive and good, prorated over more work, maybe not so expensive.


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On the new pads, dealer only, or is NAPA OK.

my vote is dealer only. they last forever. quiet. etc.


good luck


1992 sohc trooper 3.2l v6 automatic . . . as is

i love a good intermittent electrical challenge. . .especially when it's someone else's.