6 pack says you're not going to have enough dirt to fill that hole back up
<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/nana.gif" alt="" />

doesn't count if anything Isuzu or GM ends up in there.

spent the last two weekends putting electricity in my garage but did get a little bit of work done on the Pup.


pulled the engine harness, threw some labels on the connectors as the whole thing is getting reworked


pulled the throttle body, here is the TPS. It's a drive-by-wire style and a servo gets its feedback from this TPS. I'm either going to convert this one to cable throttle or most likely see if the earlier TBs will bolt up. Definetly not going to convert my truck to drive by wire, haha.



most of harness


intake manifold




other side of throttle body. here is the servo motor.




I'm guessing this is the MAF.


Have no idea which sensor this is. Haven't found the wiring schematic for this engine yet.
[img]http://berisford.net/uploads/cpom/projectpup/3/img_0896.jpg[/img]
[img]http://berisford.net/uploads/cpom/projectpup/3/img_0897.jpg[/img]
[img]http://berisford.net/uploads/cpom/projectpup/3/img_0898.jpg[/img]

that mystery sensor plugs in to the lower left of these two ports. Other one is EGR.
[img]http://berisford.net/uploads/cpom/projectpup/3/img_0899.jpg[/img]

I really have some work to do.
[img]http://berisford.net/uploads/cpom/projectpup/3/img_0900.jpg[/img]

Oh no wait I really have some work to do.
[img]http://berisford.net/uploads/cpom/projectpup/3/img_0901.jpg[/img]

Not like I need to broaden the scope of this project any more than it already is, but I think I am going to build in a custom dash/display. here is just planning out what wires do what.
[img]http://berisford.net/uploads/cpom/projectpup/3/img_0902.jpg[/img]
[img]http://berisford.net/uploads/cpom/projectpup/3/img_0903.jpg[/img]

Laid everything out saturday to remove more unnecessary circuits. The harness in the foreground is the 3800 harness. The only component I am reusing is the C3I spark control module under the coils. The Megasquirt controller I am building will run all spark and fuel functions. It is going to run timing events off the dual 18X/3X crankshaft position sensor and a digital 3X crank position the spark control module will send it. The Megasquirt I'm building will not support SFI, so the camshaft position sensor won't be used.

Still working out if I can download to code to run EVAP and EGR systems, or if I should just do away with them all together and hope I pass emissions without them.



here's what I cut out:


almost finished engine harness. Still need to add a few senders for additional guages on my dash.

This harness will be split between one of the plugs on the left side of the engine bay, and the Megasquirt relay board mounted on the firewall. All fuel and spark management will run directly to the fuel/spark controller while all power/charging supply and warning guage senders will reconnect to the isuzu engine bay harness.



Started breaking down two Toy t-cases for the dual setup and kit I ordered from Marlin Crawler. Here is the "bad" cae of the two. It was definetly left outside in the elements for many years. The hear oil is mixed with dirt and water like chocolate pudding.





Here is a side by side of the bad case that was mistreated to the good case that must have been looked after. the good case looks brand new inside. I was shocked at how shiny everything was. (both are from 1988)




I am using the "good" case as my transfer and the "bad" one as the 2.28 reduction box. Here they are both broken down: you can see the difference in color. This is after I put the cases through the dishwasher. (don't try this by the way)
[img]http://berisford.net/uploads/cpom/projectpup/4/11.jpg[/img]

Those that aren't familiar with these marlin adapters, the top row's parts will makeup my reduction box and only that box on the far end is used. the other two parts of the case in previous pictures are not used. I have to press the gear off that big output shaft (top left) to be reinstalled on the Marlin crawlbox output shaft.

Both t-case input shafts will be swapped for stronger 23 spline versions, so I'll reuse the middle piece's bearing but the little shafts will not be used. The right low range gears will be reused exactly as is but can be swapped out for lower gearsets in the future.
[img]http://berisford.net/uploads/cpom/projectpup/4/12.jpg[/img]

Here is a closeup of my 6308 output shaft bearing, "bad" case on the right. When I got this case this shaft would barely turn as this bearing was siezed with rust. I sprayed carb cleaner to clean it out then used a combination of PB and 80W to work it back into motion. It spins OK now with little noise but I think I should replace it. Compared to the good condition one on the left, there is more noise and less resistance. There is a tiny but of axial play but not much really. Anyone know where I can get one of these bearings for cheap?
[img]http://berisford.net/uploads/cpom/projectpup/4/13.jpg[/img]

I just realilzed now typing this that I may not need a 6308 bearing for the crawl box. I will have to see what comes in the kit when it arrives.

Got my bellhousing and clutch kit in the mail today. The Toyota 3.0L disc is needed for the 3.8 GM pressure plate. the clutch disc measures 9 3/8 which fits perfectly inside the GM 9 11/16" pressure plate.

Here's my 97 4cylinder Dodge Dakota bellhousing which bolted right up!!!


Looks like the Dakota uses a sensor on the flywheel maybe? Not sure what that thing is for but it probably has no value to me here.




The 4runner uses a lever type shift fork, while this dakota setup uses the fulcrum on the other side of the bell. Second problem is this setup was probably designed on an input shaft where the collar was longer and stretched out further. This TO bearing is only halfway on in this pic. Its also the wrong diameter. I will have to use a combination of the dakota slave and shift fork, with the 4runner TO bearing. I think it will come down to creating a new shift fork or modifying this one.

Looking good, Chris -- keep assembling bits outside the chassis, it really helps to test-fit outside to check clearances.

If you can stick with the Dakota fork, it'll save you some heavier fabrication effort. The cross-over style fork is pretty easy to work with in adjusting everything front-to-rear (either, as necessary) by setting up an adjustable pivot on one end and an adjustable linkage on the slave side. A single-sided fork is pretty easy, as well, but the mechanical advantage is just easier to set where you want with a cross-over fork.

If you're running into issues with too short a collar, head on down to the parts store and look at throwout bearings for early 70's Muncie-style gearboxes, there are several different lengths that should fit your input retainer OD. McLeod Industries has an adjustable one that I use, but it ain't cheap. Novak has a pretty good website of issues to consider when setting up the clutch, but it has some errors, as well. A good overview on what to think of, though... http://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge/clutches_etc.htm At worst, you could turn down the input retainer OD -- or sleeve it up.

Post up as you encounter challenges with the alignment setup, and I'll help if necessary. My basic advice is that EVERYTHING is adjustable (flywheel, pilot, throwout, fork, linkage), and you can synch individual parts to make your system work... the trick is taking a system approach to get the small throw you need at the firction plate inside the clutch pressure plate, and keep the rest of the linkage from binding /interfering with itself or adjacent bits. Doing a full set-up outside the car and checking air gap and all before you bolt it in will help, as noted above.

I *dig* that you are creating your own solution as you go. You've done your research and I'm stoked to watch it come together. Nice work! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

Randii

Adding to the discussion from Pirate... with no pressure on the clutch pedal, you want the TOB to sit near but not in contact with the pressure plate fingers. This gap is the freeplay you feel when you depress the pedal, before it gets significant resistance. If you have insufficient free play, the TOB will wear prematurely.

The pressure plate clamps the clutch disk between itself and the flywheel. Lifting the pressure plate requires hydraulic or mechanical pressure, which is what you 'feel' at the clutch pedal. There's generally also smaller springs built into the pedal and slave, but most of what you 'feel' comes from the 1500 pounds or so of force from the pressure plate.

As noted above, IMHO setting this up out-of-chassis helps, especially if you build some adjustability into your brackets, linkage, and/or pivot points. You'll be able to visually see that you're not over-extending your master or slave. If you over-extend the master, it just stops moving; if you over extend the slave, it will dump the fluid.

Brewing all this custom, you may need to consider leverage and hydraulic multiplication, but that isn't that hard if you're systematic. Figure about 1500lbs at the clutch, with 2:1 from the clutch fork, 1.69:1 from slave over master, and 6:1 from the pedal. I'm guessing/recollecting, so check all of these with a tape, but that would give you about 74 pounds at the pedal, which is a nice neighborhood. If you need more or less throw that starts to get screwy with master/slave size, effective leverage, etc. (BTW, ignore what's in the Novak article about all vehicles being 1:1 -- mebbe that was once true with Jeeps, but it is not necessarily true for Isuzus, Toyotas, etc.) IMHO, cycle the parts you have through their range of motion and measure throw, then work through the math ... the details will shake themselves out and let you know which way to go.

Ideally, you'll test full engagement for slip against a running engine, but another good way to do it is to set friction plate air gap. Checking release is also easy if you can see in the bell (maybe through the fork hole). I ended up drilling a resealable hole in my bellhousing to be sure I could atch everything work, but that's a bit of overkill. Working blind sucks.

IMHO, don't modify the Dak fork unless you have to -- you should be able to do an adjustable-length pivot and/or slave rod to allow you to fine-tune fork placement. Suggested working order: tweak system to ensure sufficient pilot engagement, splined engagement and friction plate movement, and TOB slide-space on input snout. THEN work the linkage.

Be systematic, and this will come together well. Unless you know somebody who has put this EXACT swap together, there's no template. You can consider the advice that folks give you, but remember that their input may have been different length and/or spline placement, their nosecone different diameter and/or length, their linkage wholly different, and more.

Ain't it fun to break new ground? <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/evil.gif" alt="" />

Randii

I love all this info. one of the ideas I'm kicking around is running a w56 behind my 3.4. keep up the good tech <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

Told ya so! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" />

As far as your front bearing cover goes.. just replace it with one from a 93 and later Jeep or Dakota AX15. That will solve your throwout bearing issues.

Front bearing covers

I think you can get one from Sooner Jeep for about $25.

You're aware the starter on the 3800 is on the opposite side than the bellhousing cutout?

Greg

Greg that is a good idea I may consider. I searched around, could not find Sooner Jeep on the net but found a few other late AX15 front bearing covers for about $50.

the 3800 (L36) engines built after 1998 use drive-by-wire throttle. The same throttle control also operates idle speed so no IAC valve. I would like to support an IAC valve so I am going to use a 97 throttle body and intake manifold which supports IAC.

Left TB is pre-98, right is drive by wire 98 and later TB.


Worked on the Megasquirt system, finally got the circuit boards. the assembly was a lot easier than I though. Never done any soldering before on a PCB. There are silkscreen icons of all components and component number is referenced on each package.

This is the megasquirt relay board which is designed to simplify wiring into your harness. You can mount this guy under your hood and mount the main board in your cabin. A 37 pin cable is used to connect the relay board to the main board.

The kit includes a case with an open top, and single screw-in connectors you are supposed to solder in. I think I might solder the wires directly to the board and use a 20 pin connector in case I have to disconnect it. That way I can seal the whole thing with epoxy.


here is the megasquirt stimulator. It is a component you build for testing purposes only. It simulates all the reference voltages sent by all of your sensors (IAC, CLT, TPS, O2, etc) so you can plug this guy into your mainboard during construction to verify everything is working correctly. The main board connects to your computer via serial cable and megasquirt's tuning software (megatune) lets you see all these outputs in real-time. You are supposed to use the little black pots that is similar to the little black on there on the right. The other types were on backorder so I had to use these old ones I bought at radioshack. It doesn't really matter though, this thing stays on your workbench and is not part of the system after construction.


This is the half-finished mainboard.
I'm waiting for a heatsink which is supposed to mount on the aluminim strip at the top. I haven't installed the voltage regulators, IC chips, or transistors yet since they are static sensitive. The 37 pin connector will connect to the relay board and the 9-pin connector will connect to a laptop for tuning. Under the board is a soldered-in MAP sensor which will connect to my intake manifold via tubing. This will make a speed density fuel injection system.

So far I'm glad I did this versus using the stock computer. we'll see how it turns out.