I've found myself in the build-up doldrums. Need more money to buy more parts, and waiting on the parts I already ordered. Can't start the clutch mechanism til the slave I ordered arrives. Also waiting on an intake manifold to work out TB issues, main board can't go any further without heatsink, dual setup requires a different coupler then the one Marlin sent me by mistake. And I can't start chopping up the suspension until I buy (and learn) an oxy torch setup. Should remedy all of these this week.

In the meantime I'm trying to keep myself busy with little things.

Dual toyota transfer case setup is mostly done. Here is my 3rd welding project (modifying shift rail to encase shifter). I tried to make up for lack of experience by welding then grinding over and over until it looked all filled in.



Trans and dual cases. Waiting on 23 spline coupler from Marlin crawler. I have to pull apart the rear case again because a stamped steel oil galley fell out and I can tell it's loose by the jingling sound of it hitting the gears. Still need a R150F shifter (If you know of one for sale please let me know)


pulled some of the motor apart. the L36 is one sexy motor!!! Here's the valvetrain with roller-pivot rockers.



Upper plenum removed.


Here's what 5 of my intake runners looks like....


This one is greasy, what can cause this? Oil in combustion chamber? Backfiring???? I was going to guess the EGR would dump above this runner but this runner is furthest one from the throttle body and the EGR dumps right behind the throttle blade. Maybe the particulates from the exhaust collect at the back of the intake manifold and fall down the last runner?



I found this under a valve cover sitting by a rocker. Anyone know what it is?????? <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/scared.gif" alt="" />




I was working on serpentine belt routing tonight.

Here is stock routing. All engines came with A/C which I am not going to run.


This is the path I'd like to run, but I am concerned the tensioner does not have enough movement left to give the belt nearly enough tenison. Maybe run a bigger pulley?



The following setup would be ideal but the tensioner swings the opposite direction. Can these be tenisoned in reverse if I flip the internal spring over?


Here's another attempt but not enough clearnce.
[img]http://berisford.net/uploads/cpom/projectpup/6/11.jpg[/img]

Same setup but mocked up a raised alternator location. (You can never have a 4x4 alt high enough right?) I don't think this would work because of the fact the belt doesn't bend around the tensioner here enough, besides the belt touching itself of course.
[img]http://berisford.net/uploads/cpom/projectpup/6/12.jpg[/img]

Here's the tensioner opened all the way, even if I moved the alt with a bracket, I don't think the tensioner has enough of an angle to work. [img]http://berisford.net/uploads/cpom/projectpup/6/13.jpg[/img]


Anyone have any ideas, maybe change the pulley size on the tesnioner? I'd rather not run a so-called "A/C delete pulley" in place of the compresssor. Maybe run the stock routing and put a fixed pulley between the tesnioner and the WP pulley??

Sorry for the "not the hardest core" tech but next week will have much better developments. Should have a full acet. torch setup to try out.

No help here on the belt routing... Other than to keep the pulley on the side of the belt it's designed for (ribbed or flat). The oily intake runner... PCV valve happen to go to a fitting for that runner by any chance???

Go back and re-read some of Randii's stuff on belts. Seems to me that he found a belt that was designed to drive on both sides.

Path of least resistance is to keep the AC with the stock belt and stock routing -- if you never energize the clutch, think of it as an idler. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/pfft.gif" alt="" /> You could run it as onboard air, as well...

Pay attention to the direction everything drives... a couple of your possible setups will reverse the flow of your water pump, which may be a challenge. Dunno off the top of my head whether there are reverse rotation pumps available for this application.

Idler pulleys are easily available at the parts store or junkyard, in multiple diamters and widths, with or without ribs.

Randii

How are you resolving the starter issue?

Greg

Yes, thanks for the tip about the WP running in reverse, hadn't thought of that.

Greg, I'm just going to notch the bellhousing so teh starter can work on that side, is that what you mean?

Probably just take a piece of galvinized sheet metal and make a dust cover for it since the camaro one won't work anyway.

A few more thoughts now that I'm awake:
* the tensioner spring likely can't be flipped... the ones that I have had apart aren't internally symmetrical
* hit the junkyard for a longer/shorter tensioner arm -- they are fairly standard with respect to pivot bolt and anti-pivot diameter, and there are many applications which <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/evil.gif" alt="" /> swing both ways <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/evil.gif" alt="" />
* you may be able to redrill the tensioner seat anti-pivot bore
* most tensioners have a built-in indicator which shows the range of useful motion -- look for a few stamped tickmarks in the face
* pulley sizes vary the driven speed of the accessories -- twiddle with care and this can work in your favor for belt alignment and wrap and/or idle and top speed limits on accessories

If it helps, neither the alternator nor the idler care which way they spin -- but the power steering pump, water pump, and likely the AC compressor (if you use it for more than an idler) are unhappy being spun in reverse. With a little searching, I'd be surprised if counter-rotating variants were not available, or couldn't be made to fit with custom brackets.

Erm... I made up a term. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/pfft.gif" alt="" /> 'Anti-pivot' is the cast-in 'pin' on the backside of the tensioner and the corresponding bore on the surface to which it mounts. When these are engaged, they provide the resistance for the spring inside the tensioner, and the whole shebang pivots around the center bolt. Clear as mud?

Does the stock non-AC accessory dress run an extra idler wheel or just different brackets?

Seems like rotating the alternator 30 degrees counter-clockwise around its left- and lower-most anchor point might pull it into the useful range of the tensioner. Look at this pic but rotate the alternator the other way around the other hole: http://berisford.net/uploads/cpom/projectpup/6/12.jpg

One parting bit of advice -- figure out what belts are available before you spend too much time figuring out how you want the belt to route. BTDT, and had to change my plans based on belt availability. Since you are likely running a standard, single-sided serpentine belt, this may not be much of a limiter for you.

Keep working on it -- I respect your continued work, and am all-to-aware of the second law of momentum: objects at rest tend to remain at rest...

Randii

I found this under a valve cover sitting by a rocker. Anyone know what it is?????? <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/scared.gif" alt="" />


My guess is the plastic safety lock from a quart of oil <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />

It also looks like pre-neanderthal man bone! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/notooth.gif" alt="" />

Looks like something from around the chest/sternum/rib area


somebody is probably looking all over for that

ok ok it is probaly not important. point taken