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Re: project "PUP" [Re: CPOM] #624406 11/21/05 06:29 PM
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 2,285
CPOM Offline OP
Body Damage is Cool
Bunch of pics here. I got really detailed with them because I am very green with the welding processes and would like some feedback.

This weekend I built a bracket for my gastank and skid since I cut out the crossmember. I thought it would be easy to use a piece of tube as the gusset for the gas and brake lines to run through. Rect tube is 1x2 1/8" wall. Gussets are 1/4" and angle is 1x1 1/8".

The flat welding I think looks decent but the vertical welding really looks like crap. I have been turning the heat and speed down, staying very close to the puddle and weaving back and forth a lot to keep it from dripping off. Not sure if this is good technique.

[Linked Image]
[Linked Image]
[Linked Image]

Here's a weld that is pretty much upsidedown, again it looks like hell. My friend was telling me to just avoif upsidedown welds until I can flip the frame. I just need a ton more practice I guess.

[Linked Image]
[Linked Image]

upside down again
[Linked Image]
[Linked Image]

I wanted to build a crossmember behind my FROR t-case mount that
1. supported the frame
2. didn't interfere with the drivehsaft or exhaust routing and
3. allowed me to pull the mount rearwards to drop the trans (without having to pull the cab).
I had a lot of problems until I made this. It is not teh most bombproof but I think it will do the job. This is 1x2 1/8" rect tube, 2x2 1/8" angle, and 1/8 for gussets.
[Linked Image]
[Linked Image]
[Linked Image]

agiain having some problems welding upsidedown. I just tacked the other side until I flip the frame.
[img]http://berisford.net/uploads/cpom/projectpup/12/11.jpg[/img]

Old pics when I started the motor mount brackets.
[img]http://berisford.net/uploads/cpom/projectpup/12/12.jpg[/img]
[img]http://berisford.net/uploads/cpom/projectpup/12/13.jpg[/img]
[img]http://berisford.net/uploads/cpom/projectpup/12/14.jpg[/img]
[img]http://berisford.net/uploads/cpom/projectpup/12/15.jpg[/img]

This is my Dodge dakota slave cylinder. Kind of looks like a pipe I know, that is why the lighter is there for scale.. This is some kind of chrysler quick disconnect fitting. Maybe even a single-use fitting. Anyone know of an adapter to connect it to regular hardline? Or know the line this connects to? Is it plastic or metal and able to add connectors. I think the body of this thing is plastic...
[img]http://berisford.net/uploads/cpom/projectpup/12/16.jpg[/img]
[img]http://berisford.net/uploads/cpom/projectpup/12/17.jpg[/img]

Exhaust is next step. Got most of the tube ready to cut and weld up...


CHRIS
98 Amigo, 92 Pup

need a pickup 1st gen fuel level sender
Re: project "PUP" [Re: CPOM] #624407 11/21/05 11:33 PM
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 9,030
randii Offline
4x4Wire.com Managing Editor Emeritus
I like the box section for brake line routing. Simple solution.

It makes good sense to flip the frame and then burn those welds in with confidence.

I handled a bunch of those plastic cylinders when I was working through parts bins for my own solution... I know they are increasingly common, but I just can't warm up to a non-metal slave cylinder. YMMV.

Randii

Re: project "PUP" [Re: CPOM] #624408 11/22/05 12:11 AM
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 681
Troopersphere Offline
Rock Warrior
Quote
...The flat welding I think looks decent but the vertical welding really looks like crap...


Better'n anything I could imagine myself doing, that's for certain! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/notooth.gif" alt="" />

I'm really enjoying this thing comin' together! Keep the excellent! pics coming please.

What are your plans for rust-proofing the frame ? POR-15 ?


C/YA!
Jeff
'88 Trooper
2DR LWB 4ZE1 5SP
bone stock DD
Re: project "PUP" [Re: Troopersphere] #624409 11/22/05 12:22 AM
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 2,285
CPOM Offline OP
Body Damage is Cool
Quote

What are your plans for rust-proofing the frame ? POR-15 ?


yeah, first coat is already on. good stuff.


CHRIS
98 Amigo, 92 Pup

need a pickup 1st gen fuel level sender
Re: project "PUP" [Re: CPOM] #624410 11/28/05 07:02 AM
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 2,285
CPOM Offline OP
Body Damage is Cool
Exhaust work this weekend. I grew tired of my old hangers (little donut things with the 2 holes) it turns your exhaust into a jump rope. I decided to go flexpipe, and from that point back mount the exhaust to the frame using the donut cut in half as a bushing. I didn't pay any attention to the looks of the pipe welds, just that it would be airtight. First time welding anything under 1/8" so it was a learning experinece.... I think I have the hang of it now, but not very pretty though.


[Linked Image]
[Linked Image]
[Linked Image]

Yes, I burned right through a few times, those are little patch jobs.
[Linked Image]
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I bought a 2.5" pipe u-bend from Jegs and the thing is literally 20 guage metal, it's like trying to weld tin foil. I needed to use a "collar" of heavyier guage pipe to act as a heat soak and prevent burn through. Again, not pretty but it should hold up. Definetly not moving anywhere.
[img]http://berisford.net/uploads/cpom/projectpup/13/11.jpg[/img]

Latter half of the piping is my old setup. I'm just tucking it up even higher now that I have the access.
[img]http://berisford.net/uploads/cpom/projectpup/13/12.jpg[/img]

Finished motor mounts. Again have to give Dan props here for the idea.
[img]http://berisford.net/uploads/cpom/projectpup/13/13.jpg[/img]


Changed crossmember to add more beef.
[img]http://berisford.net/uploads/cpom/projectpup/13/14.jpg[/img]
[img]http://berisford.net/uploads/cpom/projectpup/13/15.jpg[/img]


This was the best looking rotated foward butt weld I made. I used the typcial half moon sweeping motion, but stayed at the top for longer, then dipped down and back up quickly. I found this method kept the puddle from sagging. Let me know if there is a better way to do these types of welds because I am experimenting as I go along. I also turned down the heat setting for the metal by 1 notch.
[img]http://berisford.net/uploads/cpom/projectpup/13/16.jpg[/img]

I think I have the vertical up down now. Just needed to slow down wire speed and drop the heat by one also.
[img]http://berisford.net/uploads/cpom/projectpup/13/17.jpg[/img]





Let me know if there are better techniques for welding exhaust pipe. I was using current setting "2" and wire speed ~25 on my miller 210. If I lower my wire speed any more I get that tap tap tap like a firecracker where it can't maintain an arc. My beads are just too big, maybe it's because I like to go very slow. I also found I couldn't just "shoot and drag" or my bead would be too skinny and it wouldn't melt the pipe any.


CHRIS
98 Amigo, 92 Pup

need a pickup 1st gen fuel level sender
Re: project "PUP" [Re: CPOM] #624411 12/05/05 06:21 AM
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 2,285
CPOM Offline OP
Body Damage is Cool
Went to the exhaust shop and had them flare some tube for me, which I used to bolt to the cone gasket on the manifold with 2 hole flanges. It took me an entire afternoon to build this pipe, I can't imagine what building headers must be like. It's all 6" radius u-bended pieces of 2" diameter pipe. The big radius made it difficult I think but the end result is nice smooth bends. I know I used a lot of wire, might have had a better shot using thinner wire.....
[Linked Image]
[Linked Image]
[Linked Image]

Spent today putting some POR 15 on the frame. Excellent product so far... I have to fix a fitting I broke on the fuel tank. Inisde of the tank looks brand new.
[Linked Image]

The plan is to plumb in this pump as the full time pump and turn on the intank pump in the event it fails. I hope its not too far away from the tank.
[Linked Image]

aerial shot, started working on fuel system, next step is fuel lines.
[Linked Image]


CHRIS
98 Amigo, 92 Pup

need a pickup 1st gen fuel level sender
Re: project "PUP" [Re: CPOM] #624412 12/11/05 07:13 AM
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 9,030
randii Offline
4x4Wire.com Managing Editor Emeritus
Looks good, Chris!

One question -- I think I see the shoulder of the bushing in this picture that should be sandwiched facing its partner through a 1" or so hole in the steel. The bolt is 5/8", the hole is ~1", and the shoulders take up the rest.
[Linked Image]

I can't tell how you have this one stacked together, but it looks good from initial inspection. No lip showing up top. Dunno if Brian's new bushings have the same shoulder (I suspect they do).
[Linked Image]What stack are you using?

There are several right ways to connect the steel relative to these donut-style bushings, but all work around a donut-to-donut clamp where the alignment shoulders are compressed together for alignment. Once you get alignment set, what holds the forces is compression of the rubber.

I'm kinda tired, and may be explaining this poorly. You get me?

Randii

Re: project "PUP" [Re: randii] #624413 12/11/05 11:13 PM
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 2,285
CPOM Offline OP
Body Damage is Cool
I was wondering about the motor mounts, and why that collar is in there. Thanks, I will flip it over and drill the bracket out to 1".

The red ones have a different design in that one bushing has a shoulder and one has a step or recess. Its pretty obvious from when I got them how they bolt up. At least compared to the motor mounts.


CHRIS
98 Amigo, 92 Pup

need a pickup 1st gen fuel level sender
Re: project "PUP" [Re: CPOM] #624414 12/12/05 01:35 AM
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 9,030
randii Offline
4x4Wire.com Managing Editor Emeritus
Yeah, they lay out sorta like this:
Code
       _______  
      /            \ 
     /___      ___\
         |____|

CROSS      MEMBER
CROSS      MEMBER
          ____
     ____|     |____
     \                 /
       \________/


FWIW,
I'm interested in the FROR Fab red ones, as I may want to swap to poly bushings. Dunno yet, but I have REALLY tight clearance and I worry a bit about drivetrain twist. So far so good, tho!

Randii

Re: project "PUP" [Re: CPOM] #624415 12/19/05 05:38 AM
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 2,285
CPOM Offline OP
Body Damage is Cool
Through some research/advice I found my external pump must be mounted as low as possible to stay full of gas when powered off. I had to change my idea of using that little shelf for the pump.
Metal below is 1/8".

[Linked Image]

This plate doesn't make contact with the frame rail or the 45-degree crossmember so I used some pieces of 1/4" angle as supports. Without these a hard hit on a rock will leave the pump taking the weight of the truck. Not sure if I'll add a piece from the crossmember to the gas tank skid support piece or not.

Below is after I added some studs. I wanted to make changing out the pump and filter something I wouldn't have to pull the cab to do. Now I should be able to just reach under with a little socket wrench and undo the hardware without looking at it. Space will be tight.
[Linked Image]

I'm curious about opinions when welding something flat to something beveled like this weld here. I used the wire to fill the gap between the two pieces. The flat piece is right up against the tube, but the tube has a rounded edge. Does this make a strong weld?
[Linked Image]

Another example of filling a gap with wire. Not sure if this is adviseable or not.
[Linked Image]


First pass underneath upsidedown. getting better. Power down to "3" and wire speed at 28.
[Linked Image]
[Linked Image]


Second pass upsidedown, here's where I think I had it dialed in better. Power=2 WS=25. I found holding the gas nozzle in my left hand like a pen worked well.
[Linked Image]


My fuel rail has connections on the driver's side but tank is on passenger's. I tried running lines to driver's side but the crossmember area got confusing. This is what I settled on. 1" aluminum angle and self drilling/tapping screws.
[Linked Image]
[Linked Image]
[Linked Image]

Clerarance between lines and exhaust. Maybe I will wrap them.
[img]http://berisford.net/uploads/cpom/projectpup/15/11.jpg[/img]


Here's where those studs I welded in come into play. I cut down the hardware so I think I should be able to reach under when the cab is on to change the filter. I used one of the stock fuel line disconnencts on the rear filter connection.

I wanted to use 3/8" send fuel line but the pump outlet is 5/16" I found a conveninent fix for that. The filter is Purolator F64728 and has a 5/16" inlet and 3/8" outlet. Strange huh? It is for early Ford thunderbirds. The cardboard is temporary until I find some foam padding.
[img]http://berisford.net/uploads/cpom/projectpup/15/12.jpg[/img]
[img]http://berisford.net/uploads/cpom/projectpup/15/13.jpg[/img]


Gas tank hookups.
[img]http://berisford.net/uploads/cpom/projectpup/15/14.jpg[/img]


CHRIS
98 Amigo, 92 Pup

need a pickup 1st gen fuel level sender
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