Rear suspension is hung. Springs are 63" Chevy rears from an 88-98 1500 series. Very popular with the Toyota crowd as they are flexy soft and cheap ($50-$100/pr used)



These are the shackle hangers I got with the Sky Mfg. 63" chevy hanger kit. They were designed of course to go under the frame. I just tacked them in as their location will probably change. Might go with extending the frame with rect. tube and putting in sleeves...



The front hangers (same kit) were originally 1/4" wall rect tube but I cut them up to mount them nice and close to the frame. Actually made a mistake on measuring so I had to add another piece of 1/4" bar for the right spacing. (used spring width versus front bushing width)
The right side piece is in the groove made by the opposing pieces of c-channel of this frame.




Isuzu steeering box (left) and Toyota IFS steering box (right).


With this box and the axle pushed forward I think rebuilding a driver's side body mount is a distant possibility. (Body mount centered on the forward bolt of the box) Here is the box pushed way forward.


And back a bit. This is a real loose mockup as nothing is tightened just sitting there in space.





Do you think I can skip on this mount alltogether, a small percentage of toyotas chop the mount all together, not many though.

Also what is the best way to remove the nut on the pitman arm shaft? Using a wrench means the box is going to get the torque is it designed to do that or do I need to get the 40 something mm socket required to use an impact?

If the axle at full droop is as far forward as it will get, does that mean I can set up my steering based on where the tierod and drag link just start to touch on full droop and assume that during the rest of the motion the steering will be OK? Or Should I just error on the side of safety and go with mouting way forward (first pic)?