the platic bag thing was a joke, (guess it wasn't too obvious) it was wrapped around the intake from the wreckers to keep out bugs and water etc. You know how they stuff rags or tape up all the holes?

The intake doesn't seem like a big problem, I moved the engine back an inch or so and this block is shorter than the one it replaced.

I have to rectify some neighborhood issues I am having about noise complaints, but when I can resolve those issues I can put the cab back on and we'll see what the clearance is like.

Looking really good Chris. Nice tool you made there. Cinder Blocks, 5 gallon buckets, and now exaust pipe...gettin prehistoric in your tool making abilities, no? <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" /> Whatever works, i guess! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" />

Neighbors suck....time to find some friends with barking dogs, or something that will REALLY get them angry...
-J <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

Uhhh OOPS! Boy do I feel silly now (plastic bag comment). I know some racers pull a screen out of the MAF and it supposedly adds some HP. I know very little about the 3800... So far.

I agree the V6 block is shorter, but man, look at the schnoze on these motors (MAF and throttle body in one). I'm currently cleaning out my shop (garage) trying to make room for the Amigo to pull the old 2.6L

Making good progress Chris <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" /> and i can agree on the frame wt.......the Amigo frame is very lite,but a pain to move and flip by oneself <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />.

Are you planning to rotate the front spring perches and/or the knuckles?It looks like pinion angle might be a littlle rough.

Oh and for the record,16" diameter logs will hold auto tranny's and T/C's quite nicely <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" /> and the ht of said stands are easily adjusted with a chain saw <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/notooth.gif" alt="" />

Keep up the good work.

bansil

<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" />
Thanks Doug - I love starting the day with a good laugh <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />


<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />
<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

I have to source new hardware to hold my flywheel to my engine because I'm using a spacer, I found regular head hex cap screws, grade 8. I think I could also find grade 9. The OEM ones are black oxide flange head cap screws. Should I try to find flange head or even step up to grade 9 for this application? Or can I just run washers? flat or split washers? What is the best hardware for this application?

Second question is my flywheel is going to be modified to add an additional ring gear. I am going to use a stock one and run some methodically spaced weld beads. Do you think the weld beads will be enough to throw the flywheel out of balance and warrant paying to have someone rebalance it? Where would I have that done?

I figure the pressure plate must effect engine balance and I don't think those are the most precision weighted instruments so maybe it will not be necessary. Or I could just run it and get it rebalanced if it is a problem. Do these shops just know what the balance specs are or do I have to give them a stock one to reference?

I'll post some more pics but can't find my camera <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/angry.gif" alt="" />

Grade 9, huh? Keep looking. I bet they are in the cinderblock/jackstand isle. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

For all intents and purposes, Grade 8 is what you are going to find. Beyond that, you get into some different alloys.

If you can find a flanged bolt, go with it. It would be best, but you can get away with flat washwers of equal grade. (i.e. No unmarked, zinc plated washers from HD <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />)

Good Luck,
Michael

Post deleted by Jim_Paget. Chris changed hosts for his pictures and asked me to delete some posts that referenced the other site.

Post deleted by Jim_Paget. Chris changed hosts for his pictures and asked me to delete some posts that referenced the other site.

Going through pics of my mua5 I don't think there was a return spring for that, same thing for the toy 150 when I bought it, don't remember a spring pulling back on the shift fork. The dodge bellhousing and arm I bought doesn't seem to have the provisions for one either. Is this return spring something that is only found on the 3-finger type clutches? Do I need to build one to pull the t.o. bearing away from the pressure plate?