Usually, no. The TO bearing will just ride lightly on the fingers of the pressure plate.

Michael

Need, no.

Want? Well, if you can rig one up easily enough, IMHO, it can't do any harm. I have one.

Theoretically, the less the TOB spins, the longer it should last. Keeping the TOB off the fingers of the pressure plate should result in longer, happier life, for both.

Randii

Spacer my friend made me out of 6061 Aluminum on the lathe. I matched it to fit a bearing I found which fit the R150F input shaft.






Here's my final product with the ring gear/starter engagement issue that resulted from use of the spacer.

I used the flywheel holes to space the welds evenly to hold the extra ring gear. I called an industrial balancing place and described my project and they felt it was unnecessary to have rebalanced. There are two tacks, 4 1" welds, and 2 1/2"welds.

I posted pics of my welds because I would like some feedback. I think the first two were two "cold" but then I moved the current up one level and got better transition into the edges instead of being an abrupt edge. Also I think my wirespeed could go up a tad... What about the undercutting or whatever you call that when you cut into the base metal? That is from weld angle right?







[img]http://www.berisford.net/uploads/cpom/projectpup/24/11.jpg[/img]


This last weld was where I noticed some cracking when cooling. My friend said it was due to the ring gear changing shape and size due to the heat of welding and pulling the bead apart while it cooled.
[img]http://www.berisford.net/uploads/cpom/projectpup/24/12.jpg[/img]
[img]http://www.berisford.net/uploads/cpom/projectpup/24/13.jpg[/img]
[img]http://www.berisford.net/uploads/cpom/projectpup/24/14.jpg[/img]

Spacer dimensions. Hardest measurement was figuring out the depth of the bearing "holder" (the back wall). I've never worked with a pilot bearing before, (only bushings) or even seen a stock bearing setup. I set this up so that the bearing was a tight fit on the input shaft, and had some slip in the spacer. The bearing went on the input shaft then the tranny was installed. The "back wall" of the adapter was specd so that the bearing could not walk back on the input shaft and not be supported by the adapter. Not sure if that is how they work in a stock setup but it should be OK.

[img]http://www.berisford.net/uploads/cpom/projectpup/24/15.jpg[/img]





Made some shackles by extending some Darlington offroad ones. I went this route because I didn't want to buy the 3/8 steel and an 18mm drillbit. The gusset is cut up 1x2 rect tube 1/8" wall drilled with a holesaw. Spacers are sprinlkler pipe. These shackles run into the frame so I can't crossbrace them-- we'll see if they hold up. Oh and yes the hardware is temporary.
[img]http://berisford.net/uploads/cpom/projectpup/25/1.jpg[/img]
[img]http://berisford.net/uploads/cpom/projectpup/25/2.jpg[/img]
[img]http://berisford.net/uploads/cpom/projectpup/25/3.jpg[/img]
[img]http://berisford.net/uploads/cpom/projectpup/25/4.jpg[/img]
[img]http://berisford.net/uploads/cpom/projectpup/25/5.jpg[/img]

Butchered the starter nose cone to get it to fit the bell. I almost made it without cutting the bell but the gear hit when extended.
[img]http://berisford.net/uploads/cpom/projectpup/25/6.jpg[/img]
[img]http://berisford.net/uploads/cpom/projectpup/25/7.jpg[/img]






I tried a number of solutions regarding the clutch slave cylinder. I found out the composition of brake fluid is just a glycol based compund with superior lubricant properties, non reactive, basic, and would work well in the air cylinder I had planned on using. The idea that it would eat the seals is a misconception. I did however decide against the air cylinder because the one I had bought had a very small shaft and I thought it might break. I also didn't want to deal with NPT fittings and making metric brake lines connect.

Another attempt was just an el cheapo approach by modifying the Isuzu slave cylinder. Cut off one tab, weld on another. You can see I was losing my patinece here and just stuck a piece of scrap on the end. I was really upset at that point because the filled in holes I was trying to redrill were making the drill bit wander, the welds were distorting the bore and the spatter was going into the cylinder making it useless. I also realized modifyng the cylinder is a bad idea incase I break one and have to find a replacement ASAP to get home.


[img]http://berisford.net/uploads/cpom/projectpup/26/1.jpg[/img]


The Dodge cylinder was out of the question because it was plastic. An early Jeep cylinders might have worked as the pics on the advanced auto parts website looked like the correct mounting configuration.

I went with a cheap cylinder from a Toyota since it already had the metric fittings and it was cheap. It also had a smiliar bore size (13/16) as the Isuzu slave so I knew it would not overextend. I did have to build a bracket to hold it. This is just a "rough draft" of the bracket I stuck together. Now If I break one on the trail I can buy another one.

[img]http://berisford.net/uploads/cpom/projectpup/26/2.jpg[/img]

[img]http://berisford.net/uploads/cpom/projectpup/26/3.jpg[/img]


I needed to run the isuzu shaft and extend it by welding in a section of a bolt. It also had the round head thing that I needed. I then ran the Isuzu slave boot.
[img]http://berisford.net/uploads/cpom/projectpup/26/4.jpg[/img]

[img]http://berisford.net/uploads/cpom/projectpup/26/5.jpg[/img]

[img]http://berisford.net/uploads/cpom/projectpup/26/6.jpg[/img]

[img]http://berisford.net/uploads/cpom/projectpup/26/7.jpg[/img]

[img]http://berisford.net/uploads/cpom/projectpup/26/8.jpg[/img]











Putting the cab on last weekend I encountered a problem with the wheel studs. I pounded them out with a hammer some time ago and mashed up the threads bad since I knew I was going to replace them, but then forgot to replace them when I rebuilt the axle. I have to go back and do that but vise grips are handy if you need to roll the truck in a pinch:

This pic is for mike clark





[img]http://berisford.net/uploads/cpom/projectpup/27/01.jpg[/img]


Doorway comealong method:
[img]http://berisford.net/uploads/cpom/projectpup/27/02.jpg[/img]


[img]http://berisford.net/uploads/cpom/projectpup/27/03.jpg[/img]



The springs flattened out nice and the shackles are where I expected them to rest but the truck really is way too tall. that will have to be addressed eventually.
[img]http://berisford.net/uploads/cpom/projectpup/27/04.jpg[/img]



I also have to admit I really messed up the measurements for the engine position. I thought the new engine would be a few inches back from the old yet I think it is mounted 6 inches forward!!!! This pic doesn't show it well but the throttle body is where the radiator normally is. I will go into more about that later for now I am in denial I made a measuring mistake.

[img]http://berisford.net/uploads/cpom/projectpup/27/05.jpg[/img]

Drivetrain tucked way up.
[img]http://berisford.net/uploads/cpom/projectpup/27/06.jpg[/img]

The pup is alive!!! (well it looks alive sort of) The body will some down about 3 inches as it is still sitting on the rear t-case and I want to lower the lift some also.

[img]http://berisford.net/uploads/cpom/projectpup/27/07.jpg[/img]

I need to get a radiator and looking around at all the aluminum radiators on the web it seems most come in 19" heights. I have to get one under 18" tall max to fit.

The stock Isuzu dual row non-aluminum is 400 sq inches
stock 2nd gen amigo is 408 sq inches and aluminum
The stock camaro one is 434 sq inches and aluminum

The one I found which can work for dimensions is only 334 sq inches with all aluminum construction. I will end up building an aluminum shroud to house one taurus fan. Anyone think I will have problems? i am hesitant this radiator will work but looking for something under $150, aluminum, less than 18" overall height with fill spout is proving to be a problem.

I tried fitting the stock camaro one but its way too tall.

For those not familiar, I am using a stock 3.8L v6 and I cut out thr front crossmember so I don't have that little dip any more in the frame. The radiator I use can't be more than 2" thick, 18" tall or 30" wide.

I presume you remembered to leave room for your intake ducting when you came up with your radiator dimensions?

The radiator you've found that you can fit is about %85 of your factory 2.6L radiator, but it's also aluminum, maybe it would turn out to be a wash there, I'm not sure since I'm not an expert on these things. I suppose you could pop the $$$ for this radiator and see if you have problems. If you do, then it would be time to have one custom made. Last I heard that was around $500. Is it possable you can scrounge more $$$ and get something a little bigger to start with? Also, what are you going to be doing with the truck? Daily driver? Trailered trail rig?

This pic is for mike clark

Thanks Chris. Not bad. I guess it is better than welding the wheel to the studs...

And I wanted to give you the longest and most picture filled post award. You actually beat Barak. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

Michael

I'm going to drive this truck on the road but not every day.

Dan Houlton is running the stock first gen radiator (approx 400 sq in.) with his sc setup/al. shroud/taurus fan so I am using that as a baseline. I figure mine will need similiar cooling capability.

So this rad I picked out is 334 sq inches versus 400, BUT it is aluminum, BUT it is only single row and the Isuzu one is dual. I wonder if there are any graphs out there that show what size rad you need based on motor size, or hp, etc.

The thing about the tall radiators and moving the rad forward is you have problems making the hood close since you lose an inch or so of height as you move an inch forward with the hood edge. So to compensate you push the rad down to make the hood clear. But then the bottom of the rad is in front of your frame and blocks you from running a winch...

I was even thinking about tilting the rad forward on the top for intake clearance and back on the bottom incase I run a winch later.

I ended up running a smaller than optimum raidator, but I hedged my bets by making it aluminum, and hooking it up to a good fan with a great controller. So far, so good -- I started withg a standard core that almost fit the space in front of the bulkhead under the upper lip and above the welded in support horns at the bottom of the bulkhead, then had the radiator outer tanks modified to better fit the space. The result looks good and fits well.

Depending on who you talk to, aluminum radiators are 20-25% more efficient than a standard brass radiator. Keep in mind that the cores are differnet dimensions, as well, and that one aluminum core is generally as deep as two standard cores, and the aluminum cores flow better, as well.

Randii

Well nuts, I thought I posted this earlier but don't see it anywhere... From the sound of it, a Camaro radiator is the correct width, right? Can you have a radiator shop seperate off the tanks, remove the top X inches to make it the height you want, rebend the tanks and reinstall them for the $150 you want to spend? That's assuming you already have a Camaro radiator to have hacked up. I've never priced this kind of thing, so have no idea how theasable this is, I'm just tossing out an idea.

I've found 4-5 radiators that are cheap and fit my specs but can't make up my mind.

I can get a 19x24 or a 19x22 both in either single 1" row or dual 1" row.

There's a guy in my club with a 3.8 Buick powered Jeep running the 19x22 double row with zero cooling issues. He says it is way overkill. He is only running a crappy pusher fan he bought for $5 with zero shrouding whatsoever. It is an old Jeep CJ so he doesn't even have the shrouding in the front since its a removeable front clip. he gets on it and crawls slow on 40s. He thinks the radiator is way overkill.

This leads me to believe the 19x22 single core would be sufficient using ducting in front and shrouding and a taurus fan behind. Length and width are not as important as thickness. Thickness needs to be on the slim side to cram the intake ducting, winch, front grill all without having some monster front frame extension I am trying to avoid. I don't want a big honkin winch shelf 2 feet in front of the truck. Anyone have any opinons on this I know I am being indecisive but I could not find anything on the web that states what size/thickness rad you need for x engine. Seems like so many varibales are out there. I don't mind putting the time and effort into the ducting/shrouding and bracketry to get the smallest rad possible that will work when getting on it going very slow.