mounted batt behind driver's seat. reused ground cable. The little tab was already there to ground something, so I just made it the cab ground. Welded a bolt to the cab.


(-) cable grounds frame using another bolt welded. i just twisted the cable to keep it out of harms way.


Those are 1/2" emt conduit straps wrappped in elec tape with self tapping screws. Cheap and works


This 1' cable grounds engine block.



This is the megasquirt relay/powerboard. It is designed for people who need fuel pump relay circuits (like on a carb conversion), and/or those who replace their entire wiring harness. It is also used to simplify the wiring runs as each sensor has its own little screw terminal to a common ground. This is part of the reason I ripped the stock relay box. Most of the stock box's functionality is contained here. Main, and fuel pump fuses and relays. They say you can mount it as-is but I think the guy who said that did not drive his little british car through the woods. So I used a radioshack project box.

All my efi wires are going through a grommet holder thing that will be welded to the evaporator core bulkhead. All other wires will go through the lower hole, the evaporator drip port thing.




I need a permanent solution for this. For now I took the stock throttle cable eyelet, cut the end off and welded the eye to a nut I drilled and tapped to make a set screw to hold the cable. I need to find one that can be swaged on or make one more sturdy. If you know where I can get small cable eyelets let me know. I shortened the throttle cable about 1 foot also.



The JB weld B.S. was not working out as it was sagging too much before drying. My idea was to get a machinist turn me a sleeve that is 3.5" OD (the id of my rubber elbow) and about 3.3" ID, which would slip over the end of TB. I almost told a machinist to make me one at the hourly rate when I found my solution online for $1.99. It is one inch of 3.5"OD aluminum tubing, 3.3 ID. Onlinemetals.com. No minimum orders. Cool company if you need a small order.



I used some plumbers epoxy for smoothing it out. Anyone use this stuff before? I read about it online. I'm assuming a light coat then dry overnight, sand then reapply until it is a nice even surface. This should give me a strong even round surface to clamp my intake to.



This is kind of where I'm going with the dash. I'm going to try some acrylic sheet. Anyone use it before for a dash? i was thinking if it gets really scratched up when cutting pieces out, i could paint it. The power box will have to get a piece also (seperate).