Wired up my alternator and taurus fan. To minimize the amount of wiring runs I used the starter cable to give the alt a path back to the battery. I found these little aluminum lugs at homedepot, drilled them out to 8mm so they fit on the starter solenoid.



Used another for the alt. Then ran the fan 12V supply wire off this lug.


Engine bay with more wiring done, added an air intake with 3.5" aluminum tubing, you can also see the fan relay and 30A fan breaker (might put this in a box eventually). As of now I am nust going to have the fan wired on low only. We'll see if that is sufficient to cool the truck. Turn on at 200F off at 190F using one of the megasquirt outputs.



upper harness is all efi and the lower is evrything else. Just made a plate with grommet holes and welded it to the firewall.


Rewired the headlights with 16guage and these replacement connectors from advance autoparts. Redesigned the circuit so the headlight switch triggers a high and low relay, rather than carrying current. The stock setup does not make sense at all. It uses a relay but the headlight switch completes the ground. I got a lot of these ideas from the website 4crawler.com. If anyone wants to do this for whateevr reason I can make a more readable diagram or explain it this is kind of hard to read. The end result is my headlights are noticebly brighter. Less voltage drop over harness.




mounted up the computer and cleaned up the power distribution. It was confusing at first but I am glad I just rewired everything than trying to splice crap together.




I never ended up finding a good solution for bus bars so I just used wire nuts to make the splices. Worked very well. I used the nut to twist the wires into a tight cone, removed the nut, soldered with a propane torch and reinstalled the nut. It is a satisfactory connection I think.