Both F&R prop shafts have slip yokes that slide onto the splines of the F&R t-case output shafts, which leaves a big hole in the t-case. The front shaft hole is well below the oil level, but the rear is above the oli level and can be removed without leakage.

You have to pull the inspection cover on the bell housing to get to the torque converter bolts. Pull the spark plugs, transmission in neutral, put a 1/2" drive socket (with a long ratchet handle) on the crank pulley bolt and as you remove a bolt, reach behind your head to the ratchet handle, turn the engine (clockwise as viewed from the front) to the next bolt and you get them one at a time without having to crawl around too much.

Make certain the torque converter stays with the transmission and doesn't come out with the engine. When you get to the point of reinstalling the engine, there is a trick to seating the torque converter so the engine mates up properly. Let us know and someone will keep you out of trouble in that area.

Frank


'89 [color:"white"]G-Raider[color:"white"] [color:"black"]Supercharged 3.0L, MegaSquirt 2, lockup A/T, 2.5" exhaust, 172k, Cibie H4s/Oscar SCs, Hella Micro DE fogs, Cobra CB, Superwinch hubs, LSD rear/Aussie Locker front, Bilsteins, Lifeline AGM, Rust-Oleum